ATTN: STALLION OWNERS......Front wheel bearing

[Roadbuz]

Ladies and Gentlemen, My left front wheel (bearing)...the outer one, NOT the axle bearing has the ball bearings showing. I am not sure the proper name for this bearing, but will try and include a photo of same. I called Texas and spoke with Randy and asked if they had any in stock and he said he would have to order it, but it would be delayed due to the holidays.

Gave be a part number of 6814-2rs. I tried calling several bearing manufacturers and none of them have one matching that part number. I know it needs to be replaced ASAP and we have several parades and "Toys for Tots" runs and cannot drive it like it is. Does ANYONE know where I can secure one or have the correct part number? Thanks in advance....LT

[Gorilla]

the bearing has lost it's grease seal. Sorry I do not know the number, but if you get it out take it to NAPA they should be able to locate the part number on it or measure it to find one. Good Luck

[2006gold]

Try Motion Industries. They specialize in bearings, etc. The part number you have should be sufficient to identify the bearing. Also, try some of the outdoor power equipment distributors - Sten's, Rotary, etc.

[Future Triker]

I don't know if it'll help you much, but I typed that # into the internet search and came up with multiple listings that matched that part description. Found them on Amazon also for $53 per bearing. Hope this helps!

(this is a link to the search I did - https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=6814+2rs+bearings&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001

[Roadbuz]

Thanks Ted, Gary and Allen for your responses. I have found a few sites offering this bearing, but the price ranges vary greatly in price, not quite sure what's up with that....lol. Some from as little as $18 up to $150+ ...

Any of you know if these are pressed in or will simply dislodge via a sharp rap ? I have a large ratchet socket I was thinking I could use to gently tap on the bearing ensuring no damage to the wheel rim occurs.

Wadda you think ?

[rhino 2]

Thanks Ted, Gary and Allen for your responses. I have found a few sites offering this bearing, but the price ranges vary greatly in price, not quite sure what's up with that....lol. Some from as little as $18 up to $150+ ...

Any of you know if these are pressed in or will simply dislodge via a sharp rap ? I have a large ratchet socket I was thinking I could use to gently tap on the bearing ensuring no damage to the wheel rim occurs.

Wadda you think ?

Iv'e knocked a few bearings out with a large socket on my trailers' works like a charm. Also you might want to put the new bearing in a freezer for a few hours, It will tap back in a lot easier..

[Roadbuz]

I've been working on cars, boats and scooters, etc. a long time too, amigo.

But I'd forgotten about that freezer trick...thanks mucho for the reminder....

I hope that bearing is loose or located within that black part, to which the caliper strut and shock is attached.

Otherwise, I must put the entire front wheel in my friends walk-in freezer....LOL

It's those little tricks one forgets which help loads when working on anything mechanical...

I've decided to pull the front wheel assembly off and see if the part number Randy cited, before ordering that

bearing. Once I do, that will be another part number we can add to the list of those we currently do not know...

[trikervet]

I had one of these bearings go out about six years ago when there was a run on bad bearings. TMS sent me 2 complete new hubs. Just for curiosity, I later disassembled the defective one by welding up a jig and pressing it apart. I did manage to separate it, but I don't believe I could press in a new bearing without damaging it. There are two bearings on each hub. The inner one is the real booger. If you had the bearings, a machine shop may be able to help you. This is one of the weak points of the Stallion. I think if they had continued to build the Stallion, they would have come up with a better design. My 2¥ worth!!!

[Roadbuz]

I remember your posts showing that jig....at least I think it was you...lol

I'm gonna try and find it so I can make one like it...either way, I'm gonna pull the wheel and see if the number one

the side is the same one Randy quoted.

I have found a few sites locally who can get that particular one or can get most any I need.

Thanks for the info, in any case !!!!

[Roadbuz]

I am at a stand still...........I have removed the entire wheel assembly...but have run into a couple of snags....I could not break loose the caliper pad retainer bolts,

even after applying a torch to try and melt the loctite holding them onto the rotor ....I decided to remove the assy from the rim and the machine shop was unable to budge the outer seal with the fullest load possible. They decided NOT to try any further for fear of damaging the black housing surrounding them.

I have decided to replace the outer bearing on one, as the shop and two other friends said the other looked fine. Anyone have any suggestions?

I am trying to get this fixed so that we will be able to ride with those attending the "Snowbird rally".

[trikervet]

This is a needle grease injector. It is attached to a grease gun with a standard zerk fitting. I have placed heat shrink over the fitting so that grease would not leak out if the fitting is not straight. I made this up to lub the hub bearing. It is a sealed bearing, but with the needle, grease can be injected under the seal. There seems to be some premature failure with these bearings, hopefully periodic lubrication will extend the life of the outer bearing. The inner bearing is not accessible without disassembly, just have to hope for the best.

[c3racer]

I noticed today my wheel bearing is bad, Mine is a 2010 Stallion with only 5500 miles. I am going to take it apart tomorrow, wish me luck.. Is 6841-2rs a good number?

thanks for the above information

Jerry

[Gorilla]

I noticed today my wheel bearing is bad, Mine is a 2010 Stallion with only 5500 miles. I am going to take it apart tomorrow, wish me luck.. Is 6841-2rs a good number?

thanks for the above information

Jerry

Yes that is the correct number. Here is a link to where I just purchased 4 of them to replace both sides of my wifes trike. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have the best price. My price at NAPA was $60+ ea. I get a jobbers price.

Getting the caliper plate off the hub is a real challenge. I pried it up enough to get the jaws of my gear puller under the plate and got the off. Getting them out of the plate was straight forward tapping them out. The install has really easier then I thought because I used the freezer method. I put the bearings in over night. They then tapped into the plate very nicely.

Make sure you get the outer one down below the groove for the ring clip. While doing that I but the hubs in the freezer for 2 hours. Took them out and greased them a little and tapped the pale down over the hub. Remember to have a piece of wood over the area you are tapping so as not to damage the surface.

I also at the same time replaced the wheel bearings along with the inner and outer grease seals. Because I was learning as I went along it took me about 8 hors to do the work.

Good luck Gorilla

[tomg]

I sure thought that all his front wheel issues were taken care of awhile back as I was talking with the guy who was working on the trike for Ron?

tomg

[c3racer]

Did heating the caliper mounting bolts help? Mine are frozen solid.. I am trying to figure how this assy is made so I don't damage it removing the bearings. A drawing of the assy would be very helpful. let me know.

Jerry

[Gorilla]

Did heating the caliper mounting bolts help? Mine are frozen solid.. I am trying to figure how this assy is made so I don't damage it removing the bearings. A drawing of the assy would be very helpful. let me know.

Jerry

Sorry Jerry 2 I was able to break loose. The other 2 I had to drill and easyout The only REAL PAIN in the job

[ODDOMAN]

I have a 2010 model...I got 45000 miles on mine so far....no problems so far with the main wheel bearing, but I had to put wheel bushings into the shock towers....probably need to do this again soon....my mechanic told me NOT TO SPRAY WATER ON THE MAIN BEARINGS....For the reason of washing the grease out....so far so good...good luck...

Oddoman

#667

South Carolina ...

[c3racer]

I bought our STALLION 2 years ago, it had 2,800 miles on it ,it now has 5,500. I think the previous owner must have used a pressure washer on it or the bearing was defective. I never spray water around wheel area, I pour water over the trike when washing. Thanks for the info.

[tomg]

Did heating the caliper mounting bolts help? Mine are frozen solid.. I am trying to figure how this assy is made so I don't damage it removing the bearings. A drawing of the assy would be very helpful. let me know.

Jerry

Did You ever try the old candle and lighter trick? Heat the bolt on the bottom and put a small diameter candle on the top so it melts hopefully into the area needed. I've seen it on utube and been told about it. Haven't tired it myself though. Tomg

[tomg]

I have a 2010 model...I got 45000 miles on mine so far....no problems so far with the main wheel bearing, but I had to put wheel bushings into the shock towers....probably need to do this again soon....my mechanic told me NOT TO SPRAY WATER ON THE MAIN BEARINGS....For the reason of washing the grease out....so far so good...good luck...

Oddoman

#667

South Carolina ...

Just asking but, ask your mechanic how to keep the water away when riding in the rain. I changed my caliper bearings at 62k and they are sealed so I don't see any reason to worry about washing the front end. As far as using the needle grease fitting, I brought my caliper assembly to NAPA shop and they could not get it through the seal and if they had it would have left a hole for water to get into the bearing.

Tomg