Shaky shaky head big sigh shovelhead

I didn't ask about trail, i asked about a stabilizer. You didn't see any info on trail, because i haven't measured it yet.

As for a band aid, thats a given, jap bikes all come with it on the bigger cc sportsmodels i have, so i guess japs are selling band aids included.

Im going to run a stabilizer regardless of trail.

I didn't say it was what i wanted i said it was what it is. Pay attention and have another cup of whatever wakes ya up. Now backs to the program, whats the best stabilizer this side of ohlin. ? Thanks again. :cool:

Not sure what would be the "best" stabilizer to be honest. I mean they all pretty much do the same thing. Well of course as long as they don't flex. LOL

Did you try my suggestion about moving it up to the same distance as the distance between your triple tree? I also talked to a fella locally that has a 10 over front end and he actually installed dual stabilizers. That might be something to think about as well.

Keep us posted. :clapping:
 
Not sure what would be the "best" stabilizer to be honest. I mean they all pretty much do the same thing. Well of course as long as they don't flex. LOL

Did you try my suggestion about moving it up to the same distance as the distance between your triple tree? I also talked to a fella locally that has a 10 over front end and he actually installed dual stabilizers. That might be something to think about as well.

Keep us posted. :clapping:

iM FIXATED on the stabilizer, one of the reasons is im thinking of putting one on my street-glide, that has no shake, and tracks true.

But at a stop taking off wants to go left or right a bit, if i hold her tighter she goes straighter, but i fingered out the crown in the road is the culprit sometimes, so if a stabilizer works on the trike i might move on to one on the street-glide which i envision triking someday cause im old geezer.

Tire on trike an streetglide same same tread, venom. Like it better than dunlop, but im not in love with the new trike tire yet. Time will tell

Time is limited sometimes, so im taking one issue and working with that, see what the end result is and moving to the next suggestion such as the brace movement.

if i do three at once an its fixed i wont know which did what. JMO:cool:

- - - Updated - - -


I thought about duals, an when i ordered the kit the pic made it look like duals, yeah yeah, we know better, but who could a guessed. ? read my previous post on it.

Guy straightening my Dyna frame says he uses vw steering stabilizers off a bug, only cost 20 or so, been a while since he bought one, 69 bucks on eBay.

makes his own brackets and hes happy with the results, i may go that direction on the street glide, but prefer a more professional look, that may change.

I need function over form sometimes. :cool:
 
iM FIXATED on the stabilizer, one of the reasons is im thinking of putting one on my street-glide, that has no shake, and tracks true.

But at a stop taking off wants to go left or right a bit, if i hold her tighter she goes straighter, but i fingered out the crown in the road is the culprit sometimes, so if a stabilizer works on the trike i might move on to one on the street-glide which i envision triking someday cause im old geezer.

Tire on trike an streetglide same same tread, venom. Like it better than dunlop, but im not in love with the new trike tire yet. Time will tell

Time is limited sometimes, so im taking one issue and working with that, see what the end result is and moving to the next suggestion such as the brace movement.

if i do three at once an its fixed i wont know which did what. JMO:cool:

- - - Updated - - -



I thought about duals, an when i ordered the kit the pic made it look like duals, yeah yeah, we know better, but who could a guessed. ? read my previous post on it.

Guy straightening my Dyna frame says he uses vw steering stabilizers off a bug, only cost 20 or so, been a while since he bought one, 69 bucks on eBay.

makes his own brackets and hes happy with the results, i may go that direction on the street glide, but prefer a more professional look, that may change.

I need function over form sometimes. :cool:

I was wrong he was wrong, vw stabilizer was 27.50 on eBay, mechanic that tole me 20 bucks on stabilizer was closer than my 69 bucks i had found earlier in the week.

Not a stabilizer locally yet. Would jus like to put my hands on one an test it before plunking cash and shipping an all that rot.

I may measure the trail this weekend for those that have a need to know, if its too far out, pull it in, with the idea i may have to pull the tubes and cut them down.

Now thats something to look forward to. :AGGHH:
 
Ok already. If you people will go back and read his original post he did not ask what he should do to fix his problem. He asked what stablizer he should use to bandaide it. Don't give him such a hard time. If you can recomend a stablizer that will help please do. As for me the rake and trail info supplied would be a big help.
 
It is about time we helped him out. I cannot advise him on his stabilizer problem because the only stabilizer I have used was on some of the old 4X4 trucks I used to work on. Steering stabilizers are not to be looked down on. The Harley Tri Glide comes with one from the factory and some of the older Ford 4X4 trucks had one from the factory. I have even seen steering stabilizers on some older Corvettes. Now with this info does any one out there know what is the best stabilizer if so please tell him. Heck I may put one on mine even if I don't need it.
 
This thread is providing some good safety information on rake and trail and how to eliminate headshake so we are re-opening the thread less the off topic bickering. Carry on Downtown Cowtown.
 
Very few people understand rake and trail. A friend of mine built his own front end,showed it 2 me. I mentioned that it didn't have much trail. I said when the the trail gets much less than 2" they felt 2 twitchy 4 me. Well as he said later he had no idea what trail was,so he lengthened the swing arm on the leading link front end. That put him at about 2" negative. Went down the street hit about 25 mph,went into what he called the wobble from hell,tore the bars out of his hands darted to the right,flipped the rig on top of him. Now he's sliding down the street with a sidecar rig on top of him. Ground thru his boots right down 2 the ankle bone. So yea its important. we only make suggestions on these threads because we want 2 help.
 
Proper Rake & Trail configuration is complicated and can sometime defy logic.
Examples:

View attachment 34711

View attachment 34712

View attachment 34713











In theory, these should all be unrideable at high speeds or through curves, but they are not.

In theory, theory works 100 percent of the time, in reality, maybe not so much.

When i used to build superglide trikes with narrow front ends i put 10 degree non adjustable trees on them, and man they handled quick as a wink.

I was looking to replicate that here, with the pat Kennedy trees it aint happening, to the degree i was looking for because of the slo speed shake, which is diminished jus a bit with the sorry Daytona brand stabilizer that i installed.

I think its a combination of factors, one being the new frame with 2in stretched tubes which is was not suppose to be, and the dropped seat rail, it was suppose to be a direct copy of the Harley frame, not so, and im unhappy, but it sat 14yrs and now its a little late to do anything except cry about it or adapt to it.

I can see the end game coming, Ugh, pull the front end, buy another lower tree for the 41mm tubes and bore them out to fit, then cut down my tubes and rethread, dropping the front and leveling the frame, an go from there, im dreading it.

Ive been over a year bringing it back to life, and wanted my girl to ride this summer a bit, if i bring the front end in too much it raises the bike and looks a bit odd, and or does it affect how it handles adversely by being raised in the front. ??

I had the brace higher on the forks and lower it to see a difference, no difference that i could tell, that step one.

Step two i installed a stabilizer, and as poor a product as it is it did take some, some of the slo tire shake out.

Step three will be to pull the rake in a bit, which is a bitch, it looks easy, but it aint. Why ?? darned if i know, took a 4 ft pry bar to line up last time, two adjustable holes at the top.

I had no info and still don't on these trees, so which is what and what works best for what, is unknown, for the moment. Any real world experience out there on pat Kennedy trees such as these.

I believe these trees were originally made for choppers like occ, saw one at a swap meet this weekend, riding it with some ungodly bars that almost straight back to the rider, guess what, hahah front wheel wanted to wobble on it, slo speed with more rake than i have. As Ive said, seen it before.

The more rake, the more steady at speed, at slo speed. wants to flop.

As for the rake an trail, yes i can pull it in and get more trail, thats coming, jus don't like the look when its done. That means shorter tubes and mo work.

And im changing the handlebars for the third time, with internal wiring, my bud the elct guy would pull his hair out if he had any.

Box unfinished, paint, handlebars, and front end, i feel like im starting over. :AGGHH:

Im in it to win it, my lady is a bit peeved about it, but im putting her to work on the box, the rest will fall in place,
paint should be the last demon to slay.

Stay tuned and if ya have any constructive advice im listening, but be warned time is limited and i may not jump to your advice on a moments notice, takes a little longer sometimes.but im opened minded. Thanks :cool:
 

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