Rear Brake System Questions: 2009 Kawasaki Voyager with Champion Conversion

[KWSchin]

Rear Brake System Questions: 2009 Kawasaki Voyager with Champion Conversion

Rear Brake System Questions: 2009 Kawasaki Voyager with Champion Conversion

I finally got the rear residual valve and have hooked up the rear brakes. I've bled both sides until no more bubbles come out. I even pulled the calipers and hung them higher than any other part of the circuit, with the bleeding nipple at the top. Brakes are still mushy, although they will stop the bike, unassisted, at slower speeds.

I understand that changing one caliper out for two, changes the volumetric ratio of the master cylinder to the calipers, so will that mean softer brakes, even if the rear circuit is bled?

Thanks for any thoughts!

Shin

 

[fiddle_mike]

Rear brakes

I had the same problem. I did my own install with a champion kit in December and I learned how to bleed some brakes! I vacuum bled probably 2 qts of fluid through both sides. Still soft. I got a helper to pump the pedal and did it the old way,still soft. I was about to accept it and I thought I'd try one more time. (Days later). Had my help stand on the pedal one more time went to the farthest caliper cracked the top valve and one bubble came out. Now I can lock up the back wheels if I have to. So stay with it and it should work out

 

[Dirtydan]

I had the same issue. Funny though, the first time we ran everything it bled out well. Then I discovered I had run the line incorrectly off the master. Took it apart an re-bled it. Ran 2 quarts through the system and couldn't get rid of the bubble. Ordered a vacuum bleeder. Bled again with the same result. Bubble no move!!!! Dang it! So my friend who has been helping suggested we get some plugs and take all the lines apart and do it pierce by piece. I thought he was over thinking it but hey he used to work as a line mechanic so I'll listen. So we pulled the whole thing apart. Put the system at 5lbs of pressure. Pushed fluid to residual valve and plugged it. pulled plug and pushed fluid to T with one side plugged. Plugged the open side. Pulled plug and attached line for one caliper. Pushed fluid to banjo and handed it so him and he installed it on the one caliper. Opened bleeders (there are two on each champion caliper0 and let fluid run. always going back to bottle and checking that pressure was at 5/6 lbs. Pulled plug on other side of T and attached other brake line and ran that to caliper and opened bleeders. Closed bleeders. Pumped pressure up to 15lbs and did the final bleed. Brakes done. I insisted on blowing all lines out first, which I did. He said we didn't need to but it made me feel better. whether it made any difference I don't know. But i do know i now have brakes.

Now if I could only get the clutch properly bled. Seems to be an air pocket on the slave at the clutch.

 

[pcombe]

Rear Brake System Questions: 2009 Kawasaki Voyager with Champion Conversion

I finally got the rear residual valve and have hooked up the rear brakes. I've bled both sides until no more bubbles come out. I even pulled the calipers and hung them higher than any other part of the circuit, with the bleeding nipple at the top. Brakes are still mushy, although they will stop the bike, unassisted, at slower speeds.

I understand that changing one caliper out for two, changes the volumetric ratio of the master cylinder to the calipers, so will that mean softer brakes, even if the rear circuit is bled?

Thanks for any thoughts!

Shin

bleed em as best you can and walk away till the next day, try again in the morning.
I had to wear a surface off my brake pads it seems. I thought I would go nuts on mine.

There is a box at the top of the page that says advanced search, type in brake bleeding and see what comes up? bet there s allot?