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Thread: Tail light not fitting

  1. #1
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    Default Tail light not fitting

    I have a 2015 Honda Goldwing with a Roadsmith 2015 HTS kit installed. The tail lights on the kit do not fit right. The red plastic of the tail light does not fit against the body. There is a gap between them. The lights just don`t go in far enough. Anyone else have this problem? Don`t know how to post pictures.

    Bob

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    80+ Posts Condor's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobH 4 View Post
    I have a 2015 Honda Goldwing with a Roadsmith 2015 HTS kit installed. The tail lights on the kit do not fit right. The red plastic of the tail light does not fit against the body. There is a gap between them. The lights just don`t go in far enough. Anyone else have this problem? Don`t know how to post pictures.

    Bob
    Don't know if this is what you're referring to, but I'm changing out the tail lights on the Voyager kit from those Tomb Stones to the OEM style of the Yamaha RSV. What I discovered is that the OEM stop light sets off of the fender with a gap between the fender and the light, and needs a seal type washer for the fasteners holes. The back of the stop light is weather sealed.

  3. #3
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobH 4 View Post
    I have a 2015 Honda Goldwing with a Roadsmith 2015 HTS kit installed. The tail lights on the kit do not fit right. The red plastic of the tail light does not fit against the body. There is a gap between them. The lights just don`t go in far enough. Anyone else have this problem? Don`t know how to post pictures.

    Bob
    Sounds like your installer did not pay attention to details. As I recall, when I did my conversion one of the tail lights did not fit nicely until I cleaned up some body imperfections.

    It might be a good idea to call you installer and chat with them. If you don't get satisfaction it then may be time to get Roadsmith home office into the conversation. They do monitor this forum so hopefully you issue will get resolved quickly.
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  4. #4
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    Default tail light fit

    My tail lights just don`t go in far enough. I think where the studs are that hold the tail light in place has to be cut to allow the tail light assembly to go in that little bit extra. I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem. It`s the kit not the installer. I will be going to Americade to have the company rep to have a look and see what they are going to do.

    Bob

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    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobH 4 View Post
    My tail lights just don`t go in far enough. I think where the studs are that hold the tail light in place has to be cut to allow the tail light assembly to go in that little bit extra. I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem. It`s the kit not the installer. I will be going to Americade to have the company rep to have a look and see what they are going to do.

    Bob
    I agree it is a flaw in the kit because that is what I had to correct. Again, your installer dropped the ball. He should have found and fixed that issue. You paid him to do that....
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gold Rush View Post
    I agree it is a flaw in the kit because that is what I had to correct. Again, your installer dropped the ball. He should have found and fixed that issue. You paid him to do that....
    My installer is about 5 hrs. from me and did a very good job. Will wait and see what the company is going to do when they actually see what the problem is when I go to Americade.

    Bob

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    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobH 4 View Post
    My installer is about 5 hrs. from me and did a very good job. Will wait and see what the company is going to do when they actually see what the problem is when I go to Americade.

    Bob
    You know Bob, it is a simple and obvious fix if you don't want to take it back to the installer. Three nuts inside the wheel well and the housing comes out. A bit of time with a dremel (sp?) tool and the housing will fit flush as it is suppose to. Might be the easiest cure in the long run.
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gold Rush View Post
    You know Bob, it is a simple and obvious fix if you don't want to take it back to the installer. Three nuts inside the wheel well and the housing comes out. A bit of time with a dremel (sp?) tool and the housing will fit flush as it is suppose to. Might be the easiest cure in the long run.

    I will have to check this out. Thanks.
    Bob

  9. #9
    2000+ Posts tfdeputydawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gold Rush View Post
    You know Bob, it is a simple and obvious fix if you don't want to take it back to the installer. Three nuts inside the wheel well and the housing comes out. A bit of time with a dremel (sp?) tool and the housing will fit flush as it is suppose to. Might be the easiest cure in the long run.
    Be very careful with that dremel
    The mounting studs on the lamp housing have mounting surfaces on them that are supposed to "bottom" on the mounting surfaces of the body. Remove to much and you destroy those mounting surfaces!
    I'm thinking, even though it's a distance, I'd return to the installer for correction!
    Let us know what the fix is. Thanks
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfdeputydawg View Post
    Be very careful with that dremel
    The mounting studs on the lamp housing have mounting surfaces on them that are supposed to "bottom" on the mounting surfaces of the body. Remove to much and you destroy those mounting surfaces!
    I'm thinking, even though it's a distance, I'd return to the installer for correction!
    Let us know what the fix is. Thanks
    Had one of the tail lights out today and checked the stud holes and holes are large enough for the studs to go through. To take it back to the dealer would be a good idea if he was closer. If the whole bucket has to be cut and moved a bit it would be a whole lot cheaper to have it done not to far from where I live in case I have to leave it for a day or two. I will have to wait till June to take it to the Roadsmith rep at Americade to see what they are going to do to fix my problem. Thanks for all the suggestions and help. Greatly appreciated. Stay tuned as I will post the results when we return from Americade. Thanks again.

  11. #11
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobH 4 View Post
    Had one of the tail lights out today and checked the stud holes and holes are large enough for the studs to go through. To take it back to the dealer would be a good idea if he was closer. If the whole bucket has to be cut and moved a bit it would be a whole lot cheaper to have it done not to far from where I live in case I have to leave it for a day or two. I will have to wait till June to take it to the Roadsmith rep at Americade to see what they are going to do to fix my problem. Thanks for all the suggestions and help. Greatly appreciated. Stay tuned as I will post the results when we return from Americade. Thanks again.
    It is difficult to give advice long distance.

    What I found with my kit was the stud stand offs made contact with the inside of the body before the housing fit properly. I have a flat bottom rasp bit for my dremel that I used to carefully cut away the kit body until the light housing fit. It is a tedious job but patience and a couple cups of coffee later my lights fit perfectly.
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gold Rush View Post
    It is difficult to give advice long distance.

    What I found with my kit was the stud stand offs made contact with the inside of the body before the housing fit properly. I have a flat bottom rasp bit for my dremel that I used to carefully cut away the kit body until the light housing fit. It is a tedious job but patience and a couple cups of coffee later my lights fit perfectly.
    Not quite sure as to what you are referring to as to what you used the dremel tool on. Could you take a picture of the inside of the wheel well showing the studs without the nuts on. I myself don`t know how to post pictures.

  13. #13
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobH 4 View Post
    Not quite sure as to what you are referring to as to what you used the dermal tool on. Could you take a picture of the inside of the wheel well showing the studs without the nuts on. I myself don`t know how to post pictures.
    Bob, the threaded part of the three light housing studs is all that is suppose to protrude through the body so you can put nuts on them. The black plastic the studs are bonded into serve as the standoffs that determine fit and finish. If the standoffs make contact with the trike body inside the body well before the outer edge of the housing is flush with the fender then all you have to do is shave a tiny bit of the inner side of the body away (evenly) until all three studs are correct and the light housing is setting correctly. The bit I have (you can purchase where dermal bits are sold) looks like a rasp with a flat face so you can carefully remove just enough of the fiberglass to allow proper fit.

    If you do not have the proper tools or don't feel confident then I'd suggest you wait and have someone do it for you. Sorry I can't be of more help there unless you'd like to take a road trip..
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gold Rush View Post
    Bob, the threaded part of the three light housing studs is all that is suppose to protrude through the body so you can put nuts on them. The black plastic the studs are bonded into serve as the standoffs that determine fit and finish. If the standoffs make contact with the trike body inside the body well before the outer edge of the housing is flush with the fender then all you have to do is shave a tiny bit of the inner side of the body away (evenly) until all three studs are correct and the light housing is setting correctly. The bit I have (you can purchase where dermal bits are sold) looks like a rasp with a flat face so you can carefully remove just enough of the fiberglass to allow proper fit.

    If you do not have the proper tools or don't feel confident then I'd suggest you wait and have someone do it for you. Sorry I can't be of more help there unless you'd like to take a road trip..
    I think I understand what you`re trying to get through my thick head. The threads ARE flush with the wheel well side of the bucket. I even have the holes large enough so that the studs will fit the hole. The big problem is that the tail light has to go forward close to 1/4 " and doing what you describe to do, I don`t think the wall would be thick enough to do that. Good idea though.

  15. #15
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobH 4 View Post
    I think I understand what you`re trying to get through my thick head. The threads ARE flush with the wheel well side of the bucket. I even have the holes large enough so that the studs will fit the hole. The big problem is that the tail light has to go forward close to 1/4 " and doing what you describe to do, I don`t think the wall would be thick enough to do that. Good idea though.
    WOW !!! That is a HUGE adjustment. I agree. That is too much. Now I'm at a loss. I had to remove maybe 1/16th of an inch from the left side only to get my light housing flush with the fender. Your problem may take some professional attention.

    Sorry for your issue.
    To be honest, I am surprise Roadsmith has not contacted you already. Hopefully you will get this resolved soon.
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

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