Rear Shocks Replacement on Roadsmith Trike

[kenwantz]

This may be a silly question, but I like to try DIY repair projects where I feel I am able. I have changed shocks on my automobiles before, but could use a little help regarding correct procedure for removal and installation of the rear coil over shocks on a RoadSmith trike. Specifically, if I run the rear tires up onto ramps (and front tire blocked) so I can get under the trike to safely work, can the shocks then be removed OR must the wheels be lifted off the ground by a jack (and supported by jack stands) to take load off the shocks before removing them? In other words, do the shocks need to be compressed or fully relaxed before removing the top and bottom eyelet bolts? Thanks guys for any words of wisdom you can offer.

 

[Gold Rush]

This may be a silly question, but I like to try DIY repair projects where I feel I am able. I have changed shocks on my automobiles before, but could use a little help regarding correct procedure for removal and installation of the rear coil over shocks on a RoadSmith trike. Specifically, if I run the rear tires up onto ramps (and front tire blocked) so I can get under the trike to safely work, can the shocks then be removed OR must the wheels be lifted off the ground by a jack (and supported by jack stands) to take load off the shocks before removing them? In other words, do the shocks need to be compressed or fully relaxed before removing the top and bottom eyelet bolts? Thanks guys for any words of wisdom you can offer.

I have never removed the shocks on my Roadsmith but did my Motor Trike Adventure. Yes, you need to pull the wheels and let the suspension sag (with floor jack under bottom) to take the load off the springs and bolts. The coil over spring is pretty strong so anything you can do to reduce that is in your favor.

You can do both sides at the same time or one side at a time. Either way be very careful and don't get pinned under that sucker!!:xszpv::xszpv:

 

[bikerbillone]

I believe soldibob has replaced the shocks on his RS, maybe he will see this and give a post. He's very good on the RS fix.

 

[mhgoldwing]

I have changed the shocks on my HT1800 several times due to component failure. I am now running the HD coil over shocks.

Before starting I place the front wheel in a wheel chock and fasten the wheel to the chock so the trike cannot roll/move forward or backwards. I always lift the rear of the trike and put jack stands under the crossbeam at the front of the trailing arms. I leave my atv jack under the center just behind the pumpkin on the trailer hitch front plate as additional safety measure. Remove both rear wheels and you have easy access to the shocks.

You can make the job much easier with a small bottle jack to place under the lifting points just below the shocks to take the pressure off of the bolts so you can remove/replace them easily. Be careful to notice how the shocks are mounted and where the washers are before you take the old ones off as the new ones need to go back the same way. Fairly straight forward if some guerilla didn't use an air wrench to tighten bolts. Getting them loose can turn into a real knuckle buster if you are not careful.

Good luck!

 

[bikerbillone]

Good post, mh. Why did you replace the RS shocks with HD shocks? Were the RS shocks Progressives? You mentioned that you had replaced them several times, but maybe I'm drawing a wrong conclusion, not on the same trike.

 

[mhgoldwing]

I had the Accuride System and experienced three shock blowouts. Turns out it was a faulty sensor that allowed the pump to over-pressure the shocks. Evidently there were a few of us around the country who experienced this and it was not a widespread problem. I elected to go to straight coil over shocks as I rarely change the load.

Roadsmith did offer to replace my shocks and faulty sensor with the new ones but I declined the offer. Again, Roadsmith stood behind their product and I've had it five years this coming July. I could not ask for better manufacturer support! :clapping:

 

[bikerbillone]

mh, thanks, good post. I thought about Accuride when RS did my conversion, but I gave it some reconsideration, any thing that has hydraulic pressure on it is bound to fail at some point sooner or later, so I opted to not get that option.

For the record, I agree, RS has treated me right from day one. They do a fine conversion.

 

[kenwantz]

Great posts guys. I will do what mhgoldwing so clearly described.

 

[Solidbob]

Changed to Progressive 444 Black Coil Over

I changed about 2 years ago to Progressives New 444 Coil Over Shocks in Black that are easily adjustable from the top, much easier to jack each side up and rotate the top cap to adjust than fight that spanner wrench tearing hunks of skin off your knuckles... yea they cost more and are easier to adjust, did take making some bushings on my lathe, but are so much better... I can make most anything work if its close and these were close and better and more protected...... if it's better I like it!!!

 

[mhgoldwing]

I changed about 2 years ago to Progressives New 444 Coil Over Shocks in Black that are easily adjustable from the top, much easier to jack each side up and rotate the top cap to adjust than fight that spanner wrench tearing hunks of skin off your knuckles... yea they cost more and are easier to adjust, did take making some bushings on my lathe, but are so much better... I can make most anything work if its close and these were close and better and more protected...... if it's better I like it!!!

After fighting that spanner wrench, I now use a large set of channel lock pliers and it's easy peesy. I don't change them that often but no more knuckle busting for me.

 

[kenwantz]

I changed about 2 years ago to Progressives New 444 Coil Over Shocks in Black that are easily adjustable from the top, much easier to jack each side up and rotate the top cap to adjust than fight that spanner wrench tearing hunks of skin off your knuckles... yea they cost more and are easier to adjust, did take making some bushings on my lathe, but are so much better... I can make most anything work if its close and these were close and better and more protected...... if it's better I like it!!!

Why was this necessary and what did you do exactly? Could you please expound on this a little to give me an idea if it is something I could easily do. Thanks!

 

[Solidbob]

I had to turn some bushings on the lathe that fit the bolts tighter, I used Stainless so they wouldn't wear then used Nyloc nuts with Castle holes for cotter pins so they were not locktited on just pinned. Now easy to adjust with my plate jack under the diff so it all just hangs barely off the ground... you just need to take the pressure off to adjust.. Depending on the kit you'll need to tell Progressive your bolt sizes...up & lower..... and length.... as long as it would pass thru the hole I can build it from there!!!