Front end PM work

Oct 27, 2009
1,138
246
Titusville, Florida
Well I broke down and finally replaced the front sealed bearing and seals. While I was at it I changed the rear tires as they were 8 years old. For those of you that don't know it, after a tire reaches a certain age, shops are not allow to repair any flat for you. I believe that the age is 5 for trailers and 6 for cars.

As for the bearing change, don't believe all the horror stories about all the special tools or equipment you need. I did it all in my garage with regular tools and a little "Redneck" ingenuity and yes I had to look up that word !! Sure rides quieter too. Checked all the break pads(front & rear) and they are all fine. Cost was $400 for the tires from Sears, mounting, balance and free repairs or balance down the road and $360 for the 4 sealed bearings and 4 grease seals. The sealed bearings did not show any visual wear but the 2 outer ones felt and sounded dry.
Tomg
 
Well I broke down and finally replaced the front sealed bearing and seals. While I was at it I changed the rear tires as they were 8 years old. For those of you that don't know it, after a tire reaches a certain age, shops are not allow to repair any flat for you. I believe that the age is 5 for trailers and 6 for cars.
As for the bearing change, don't believe all the horror stories about all the special tools or equipment you need. I did it all in my garage with regular tools and a little "Redneck" ingenuity and yes I had to look up that word !! Sure rides quieter too. Checked all the break pads(front & rear) and they are all fine. Cost was $400 for the tires from Sears, mounting, balance and free repairs or balance down the road and $360 for the 4 sealed bearings and 4 grease seals. The sealed bearings did not show any visual wear but the 2 outer ones felt and sounded dry.
Tomg

what was your milage on your trike Tom
 
Hello
Pictures of this redneck bearing puller, so that we don't have to send the
hubs in and then wait 6 weeks for repair.

Thanx
Dragon
 
Okay folks, first remove the front tire, make sure that you loosen the brake caliper bracket bolts before removing the tire, once off you need to remove the bolts/nuts that hold the hubs on the wheel. Now remove the caliper bracket. Now use 2 of the bolts removed holding the hubs on and screw them in until they contact the rotor, now place a flat blade screwdriver between the rotor and the black hub on the opposite side. Take a turn on each bolt, tap the screwdriver , now repeat this until the black hub separates from the wheel hub. On mine the inner bearing stayed on the wheel hub which took a little time with 2 flat blade screwdrivers / small pieces of wood to pry the bearing up enough to get a puller under it. Remove the retainer clip for the outer bearing and that one will tap out from the backside. I will get the part numbers and where I purchased them. My axle bearings were good so I just cleaned and repacked them. I believe it was $360 for the 4 sealed bearings and 4 grease seals with shipping.
I'm terrible with trying to post photos.
Tomg
 
Hub Bearings

Here is a jig I welded up to press the bearings OUT. I don't have pictures of what I made to press the new ones IN, but it was basically 2x4's, PVC pipe and a 4 ton bottle jack. Pressing a bearing in requires attention so that the surface you are pressing on does not put the balls inside in a bind or you can damage the bearing. THINK IT OUT!!


Hub disassembly 5 May '09 (2) resized.jpgHub disassembly 5 May '09 (3) resized.jpg
 
Looks good but I didn't have a welder so I used my small oil filer socket that fits over the end of my old 2 wheeler oil filter. Used it to push out the front bearing from the back and start the rear bearing onto the wheel hub. Then I put the caliper hub on and pressed it down to seat the rear bearing, now use the filter socket to seat the front bearing and then installed the "c" clip. It all works, just need to study what needs to be done. I think your press is a better way but sometimes you just use what you have.

Tomg
 
Tom what made you take on that job? Were they showing signings of needing replacement? If so what?

No signs of wear or loose wheel, just a funny feeling I had. The sealed bearings had no sign of visible wear but the 2 outer bearings were looser and sounded dry once I had them out. With 62.5k miles and needing new rear tires because of age, I just did it all at once. And the rear brake pads I replaced back in Eureka Springs still looks new with 22.5k on them. Still don't know why my right caliper hung up on me while out there. I also found that the front caliper bolt rubbers didn't allow the bolts to slide back out when I cleaned them and checked them before putting them back together. I flipped the rubbers over and they worked fine. If you look at the rubber pieces very close, I could see a slight difference in the very ends. All appears to be working fine now. I know someone out there is going to say I was seeing things but when I noticed it, there was a friend watching me he was also surprised when I showed him.
Tomg
 
Good Morning
Nice info and pictures. It sure would be nice if there was a manual available:mad:
Had the same problem with rubber boots when I rebuilt the calipers, I went to
a local brake place and they had a box full, common part on a lot of brakes.

Dragon
 

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