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Thread: Could it be Coil Death? - Problem Solved!

  1. #1
    150+ Posts CaveManDave's Avatar
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    Default Could it be Coil Death? - Problem Solved!

    So I have the engine running pretty good when cold/warm. After the engine gets to temp, it looses all power and acts like the spark is fading, then gone. I pull over to let it cool down and if I wait long enough for the engine to cool down, It starts back up and runs, until the heat starts the circle of life and death.

    Coil death?

    What is a good replacement to purchase?
    Last edited by CaveManDave; 04-30-2016 at 04:46 PM.

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    sounds like a good possibility
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Have you opened up the distributor yet? Is it still point and condenser system or has it had the electronic ignition installed?

    It could be as simple as a failing condenser in the distributor as well.

    If it still has points and condenser NAPA usually carries them............

    Now that I look at the distributor in the photos on the engine code thread, it appears that it is electronic ignition.

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    I have had plenty coils and condensers go out.
    Have had them restart after cooling down also.
    But.
    Have never had one fade away on the power.

    Fade away is normally lack of fuel supply to the carbs.

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    Stinger,.

    points and condenser. Everything is in new condition with no burnt spots. This engine has only a few test miles

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    Power fading then gone. Does this mean it slows down an finally stops.doesn't sound electrical. If the engine turns check 4 spark at coil. I don't c a thermostat in ur pictures and cooling tin is also missing. If the engine is new it could b sticking a piston.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DeathBySnuSnu View Post
    I have had plenty coils and condensers go out.
    Have had them restart after cooling down also.
    But.
    Have never had one fade away on the power.

    Fade away is normally lack of fuel supply to the carbs.

    I have to agree here. Usually an electrical will work fine and then just quit.

    I would check to ensure that a fuel line isn't collapsing or being blocked somehow. Maybe the fuel filter is having issues.

    If this trike sat for a few years it could be either fuel line or a filter. I think I would replace all the fuel lines.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stinger608 View Post
    I have to agree here. Usually an electrical will work fine and then just quit.

    I would check to ensure that a fuel line isn't collapsing or being blocked somehow. Maybe the fuel filter is having issues.

    If this trike sat for a few years it could be either fuel line or a filter. I think I would replace all the fuel lines.

    I had a 71 Bettle and they didn't come with a fuel filter... And after i had it for a few years i put one in , Thats when i started having the same problems... What was happening the fuel tank was rusting and the rust was blocking the filter.......
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

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    Glass fuel filter appears unclogged. I my hands under the cylinders and can feel good air flow through the fins. Am I missing some tins here?

    Time to get out my digital temp gun and see what some of the the temps look like.

    Thanks for your help guys!

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    Ah ha, I was wondering about the deflector tins. I see them are in place on the second and third pictures. They are probably the MOST important air tins on the VW engine.

    I don't think that cooling is at all your issue. I'm leaning towards the fuel delivery as SnuSnu stated.

    Tell us exactly what happens. IE does it loose power and die? Or does it just loose power and start missing, running rough, or loosing one or more cylinders?

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    Bingo,

    Or does it just loose power and start missing, running rough, or loosing one or more cylinders?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Should I try to remove the gas cap and try to check vacuum pressure in the tank/lines?

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    Gas cap off, still came to a the same results.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CaveManDave View Post
    Bingo,

    Or does it just loose power and start missing, running rough, or loosing one or more cylinders?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Should I try to remove the gas cap and try to check vacuum pressure in the tank/lines?

    It will need a "vented" cap. I would honestly check the gas cap and make sure it is vented or if a vented cap, make sure the little vent hole isn't plugged.

    Something else that I have seen many many times, the proper torque on the heads is not right. Once the engine warms up it will loose compression between the heads and the cylinders. If the builder didn't "lap" the cylinder jugs into each cylinder hole in the heads and/or the torque is not correct or loosened due to sitting for a long time, it will cause a serious compression loss between the head and cylinder.........................I have always called it "puking a head."

    I have had this happen tons of times on customers bugs.

    However, I would start simple first. Lets check that the gas cap is actually venting. That will also cause these issues.


    Gas cap off, still came to a the same results.


    Ah, I had posted before you posted this statement.


    Now I would go ahead and change the fuel lines and clean the filter.

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    Gas cap off, still came to a the same results.

    Cap vent is clean. Undamaged seal.

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    THIS THREAD IS DEAD! I replaced a faulty, clogged fuel regulator. Just got back from an hour of breaking in the new motor. Did not stall out at all.

    Thank you so much Stinger for your advice!

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    When you say "fuel regulator" are you referring to one of those adjustable inline pressure regulators? Or are you referring to the fuel filter?

  17. #17
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    I cleaned the glass inline filter and there was a Inline pressure regulator between the filter and the carbs.

    Do I even need it?

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    That is a bit odd that there would be a press, reg. on your carb'ed trike.
    Is there an electric fuel pump in place of, or in addition to, your mechanical fuel pump?
    Guess its all moot now, if you're up & running again...

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    We will get to Hooks this week for a full check out. The local VW shop that everyone agrees is the place to go. At least I can ride there no with the help of members and the help offered.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CaveManDave View Post
    I cleaned the glass inline filter and there was a Inline pressure regulator between the filter and the carbs.

    Do I even need it?
    Hmm, that is very odd. Can't imagine why in the world someone would have installed one of those.

    Nope, ya don't need that at all.

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