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Thread: How to change differential oil?

  1. #21
    2000+ Posts Burnerboy's Avatar
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    Roadsmith are you there? Could you please post a picture of where these two bolts are located? With the size Allen wrenches needed, as I'll be replacing my fluid soon when it warms up a little..

    Thank you!

    Ronnie

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    Roadsmith, Are you there!!!!

    Please if you can hear me, answer me!!!

    Ronnie

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    1000+ Posts mhgoldwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burnerboy View Post
    Roadsmith, Are you there!!!!

    Please if you can hear me, answer me!!!

    Ronnie
    first, read posts #5 and #8. Oil should be changed at 50,000 miles.

    The filler plug on the differential is on the rear, top right portion of the diff. The access hole is cut into the trailer hitch support plate; can't miss it.

    I gave a description of the drain plug location and Allen wrench size required.
    Wing with Roadsmith kit, Traxxion Ak20 cartridges and Accuride System.

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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhgoldwing View Post
    first, read posts #5 and #8. Oil should be changed at 50,000 miles.

    The filler plug on the differential is on the rear, top right portion of the diff. The access hole is cut into the trailer hitch support plate; can't miss it.



    I gave a description of the drain plug location and Allen wrench size required.
    Aaaaa Ok thank you, I only have (just checked yesterday) approx. 10,000 miles since I triked her out... so I guess I'm ok, for another season...My bikes been sitting in a cold garage all winter season. (on a trickle charge, with all wheels off cement floor).. I just changed oil/filter yesterday (cause I didn't get a chance to replace before she started her winter hibernation.... Todays supposed to be record breaking high 70* so I have a feeling all of us will just have to take our bikes out for that "needed' spin today.. Thank you for this information, I looked yesterday and couldn't find the filler plug, so early this morning I just REread your helpful hints, here, so I'm going to go back out in garage and look again..

    Thank you, thank you, thank you!

    Ronnie

  6. #25
    200+ Posts lgjhn's Avatar
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    FWIW, I'm bringing this thread back to life.......again.

    When I did the gear oil change over a year ago, I added 1 quart of fresh 80-90 gear oil per the RS specifications.

    Over time, I noticed that I would get 2-3 drops of oil leakage around the pinion seal when the trike sat for awhile....like maybe 4-5 days or more.

    I'm pretty anal about my stuff and IF it leaks, I'm gonna fix it. So, I've been planning on changing out the pinion seal.

    I called RS last week and got the pinion seal part# for my model. (National 8181NA). I had to order it and none of the local part houses had one in stock.

    However, while waiting on the seal to be delivered, I was perusing some threads on this subject here on TrikeTalk. I came across another thread: "Differential leak" by OLD DAWG where he actually took his trike to The TrikeShop - Daytona where Dan did a seal replacement for him and recommended that only 3/4 of quart be added back in to the differential rather than a full quart. The reason being is that a full quart can overload the seal once the oil gets hot and will cause it to fail.

    So just for giggles, I went ahead and drained the differential again and measured out exactly 24 ounces (3/4 of a quart) and added that amount back in. I cleaned up the area around the pinion seal in order to be able to watch for future leaks. Buttoned everything up and rode it over 300 miles; some interstate, back roads and in town. Put it back up on my lift and checked the pinion seal area this morning....dry as a bone....just the way I left it after the change...no sign of a leak.

    So the replacement seal is to arrive later today, but I think I'm gonna hold off on changing it till I see what happens.

    IF it stays dry, obviously I'm not gonna change it. IF not, I will have the replacement seal in my possession and will do the replacement over the winter.

    I have a feeling it will no longer leak and stay dry....we shall see.

    I reposted this so that anyone that's planning on doing a gear oil change, that the amount is 3/4 of a quart to save on the seal.

    Hope this helps someone.

    Everyone ride safe.

    LJ

  7. #26
    1000+ Posts mhgoldwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lgjhn View Post
    FWIW, I'm bringing this thread back to life.......again.

    When I did the gear oil change over a year ago, I added 1 quart of fresh 80-90 gear oil per the RS specifications.

    Over time, I noticed that I would get 2-3 drops of oil leakage around the pinion seal when the trike sat for awhile....like maybe 4-5 days or more.

    I'm pretty anal about my stuff and IF it leaks, I'm gonna fix it. So, I've been planning on changing out the pinion seal.

    I called RS last week and got the pinion seal part# for my model. (National 8181NA). I had to order it and none of the local part houses had one in stock.

    However, while waiting on the seal to be delivered, I was perusing some threads on this subject here on TrikeTalk. I came across another thread: "Differential leak" by OLD DAWG where he actually took his trike to The TrikeShop - Daytona where Dan did a seal replacement for him and recommended that only 3/4 of quart be added back in to the differential rather than a full quart. The reason being is that a full quart can overload the seal once the oil gets hot and will cause it to fail.

    So just for giggles, I went ahead and drained the differential again and measured out exactly 24 ounces (3/4 of a quart) and added that amount back in. I cleaned up the area around the pinion seal in order to be able to watch for future leaks. Buttoned everything up and rode it over 300 miles; some interstate, back roads and in town. Put it back up on my lift and checked the pinion seal area this morning....dry as a bone....just the way I left it after the change...no sign of a leak.

    So the replacement seal is to arrive later today, but I think I'm gonna hold off on changing it till I see what happens.

    IF it stays dry, obviously I'm not gonna change it. IF not, I will have the replacement seal in my possession and will do the replacement over the winter.

    I have a feeling it will no longer leak and stay dry....we shall see.

    I reposted this so that anyone that's planning on doing a gear oil change, that the amount is 3/4 of a quart to save on the seal.

    Hope this helps someone.

    Everyone ride safe.

    LJ
    Good info. My pinion seal was replaced under warranty after if blew out and leaked oil everywhere when going down the road. When I changed I use the one quart and so far no leaks. Hope it stays that way.
    Wing with Roadsmith kit, Traxxion Ak20 cartridges and Accuride System.

    07 ST 1300 for two-wheeled fun!

  8. #27
    100+ Posts M2102's Avatar
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    Default Diff oil change

    Quote Originally Posted by lgjhn View Post
    FWIW, I'm bringing this thread back to life.......again.

    When I did the gear oil change over a year ago, I added 1 quart of fresh 80-90 gear oil per the RS specifications.

    Over time, I noticed that I would get 2-3 drops of oil leakage around the pinion seal when the trike sat for awhile....like maybe 4-5 days or more.

    I'm pretty anal about my stuff and IF it leaks, I'm gonna fix it. So, I've been planning on changing out the pinion seal.

    I called RS last week and got the pinion seal part# for my model. (National 8181NA). I had to order it and none of the local part houses had one in stock.

    However, while waiting on the seal to be delivered, I was perusing some threads on this subject here on TrikeTalk. I came across another thread: "Differential leak" by OLD DAWG where he actually took his trike to The TrikeShop - Daytona where Dan did a seal replacement for him and recommended that only 3/4 of quart be added back in to the differential rather than a full quart. The reason being is that a full quart can overload the seal once the oil gets hot and will cause it to fail.

    So just for giggles, I went ahead and drained the differential again and measured out exactly 24 ounces (3/4 of a quart) and added that amount back in. I cleaned up the area around the pinion seal in order to be able to watch for future leaks. Buttoned everything up and rode it over 300 miles; some interstate, back roads and in town. Put it back up on my lift and checked the pinion seal area this morning....dry as a bone....just the way I left it after the change...no sign of a leak.

    So the replacement seal is to arrive later today, but I think I'm gonna hold off on changing it till I see what happens.

    IF it stays dry, obviously I'm not gonna change it. IF not, I will have the replacement seal in my possession and will do the replacement over the winter.

    I have a feeling it will no longer leak and stay dry....we shall see.

    I reposted this so that anyone that's planning on doing a gear oil change, that the amount is 3/4 of a quart to save on the seal.

    Hope this helps someone.

    Everyone ride safe.

    LJ
    Good info on oil change. The location of the plugs on diff case and location of the case, how did you get the measured amount of oil put back in? Snake a flexible hose from fill hole to a high point on the outside or even under the seat?

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  10. #28
    1000+ Posts mhgoldwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M2102 View Post
    Good info on oil change. The location of the plugs on diff case and location of the case, how did you get the measured amount of oil put back in? Snake a flexible hose from fill hole to a high point on the outside or even under the seat?
    Buy one of those hand pumps designed for quart/gallon jugs. I bought a quart of correct oil and simply pumped it from bottle till empty. Other than laying under the trike and working in a twisted pretzel position it was easy peasy.
    Wing with Roadsmith kit, Traxxion Ak20 cartridges and Accuride System.

    07 ST 1300 for two-wheeled fun!

  11. #29
    3250+ Posts bikerbillone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lgjhn View Post
    FWIW, I'm bringing this thread back to life.......again.

    When I did the gear oil change over a year ago, I added 1 quart of fresh 80-90 gear oil per the RS specifications.

    Over time, I noticed that I would get 2-3 drops of oil leakage around the pinion seal when the trike sat for awhile....like maybe 4-5 days or more.

    I'm pretty anal about my stuff and IF it leaks, I'm gonna fix it. So, I've been planning on changing out the pinion seal.

    I called RS last week and got the pinion seal part# for my model. (National 8181NA). I had to order it and none of the local part houses had one in stock.

    However, while waiting on the seal to be delivered, I was perusing some threads on this subject here on TrikeTalk. I came across another thread: "Differential leak" by OLD DAWG where he actually took his trike to The TrikeShop - Daytona where Dan did a seal replacement for him and recommended that only 3/4 of quart be added back in to the differential rather than a full quart. The reason being is that a full quart can overload the seal once the oil gets hot and will cause it to fail.

    So just for giggles, I went ahead and drained the differential again and measured out exactly 24 ounces (3/4 of a quart) and added that amount back in. I cleaned up the area around the pinion seal in order to be able to watch for future leaks. Buttoned everything up and rode it over 300 miles; some interstate, back roads and in town. Put it back up on my lift and checked the pinion seal area this morning....dry as a bone....just the way I left it after the change...no sign of a leak.

    So the replacement seal is to arrive later today, but I think I'm gonna hold off on changing it till I see what happens.

    IF it stays dry, obviously I'm not gonna change it. IF not, I will have the replacement seal in my possession and will do the replacement over the winter.

    I have a feeling it will no longer leak and stay dry....we shall see.

    I reposted this so that anyone that's planning on doing a gear oil change, that the amount is 3/4 of a quart to save on the seal.

    Hope this helps someone.

    Everyone ride safe.

    LJ
    I can tell you that Dan is the guru of Road Smith builds, if he says 3/4 of a quart, you can take that to the bank.

  12. #30
    1000+ Posts mhgoldwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbillone View Post
    I can tell you that Dan is the guru of Road Smith builds, if he says 3/4 of a quart, you can take that to the bank.
    If the owner's manuals were up to date then we would all know the correct amount to use. Every mfg. manual I've seen is sorely lacking in useful and accurate information.
    Wing with Roadsmith kit, Traxxion Ak20 cartridges and Accuride System.

    07 ST 1300 for two-wheeled fun!

  13. #31
    3250+ Posts bikerbillone's Avatar
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    Oh yes, you are so right. My 2012 RS cheat sheet says two different fills, if memory serves, you check the filler plug, if it's one type, you fill only until you you can touch the oil with the finger reaching into the hole, if another, then fill to the lip. Go figure. Now, getting the finger into the hole, that's the trick. I dunno which one I have, I took it to a trike dealer and had it done, I guess it's right. My plan next time my plan is, run the rear wheels up on car ramps and raise the front end to make it level and see what if I can do this job myself, that dealer burned a hole in my wallet.

  14. #32
    200+ Posts lgjhn's Avatar
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    Last week, the wife and I took a trip to Arkansas and put over 1000 miles on the trike pulling a trailer for the most of it.

    I watched the concrete where we would park for the night for leaks, and then when we got home, I put her on the lift to check for leaks...NOTHING.

    Everything stayed nice & dry.

    Using only 24 oz of gear oil in the diff did the trick.....Dan was right.

  15. #33
    3250+ Posts bikerbillone's Avatar
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    Dan has been doing RS builds for a very long time, I have no reason to doubt his expertise. I have no idea why RS would change diff molds during 2011/2012, but that seems to be the case.

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    1000+ Posts mhgoldwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbillone View Post
    Dan has been doing RS builds for a very long time, I have no reason to doubt his expertise. I have no idea why RS would change diff molds during 2011/2012, but that seems to be the case.
    Evidently they changed which differential they were using/modifying and each requires specific fill level.
    Wing with Roadsmith kit, Traxxion Ak20 cartridges and Accuride System.

    07 ST 1300 for two-wheeled fun!

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    3250+ Posts bikerbillone's Avatar
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    For sure Mike, there's always a 'back story' and a 'why' of it all, curiosity leads me to 'want to know' but rarely is that possible, just gotta accept, it is what it is. My thought's are, why not just spell out out how many ounces for each diff, or each different plug in the differential, instead of the 'finger check'? I guess there's a reason for that too.

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    I'm surprised NO ONE HAS EVEN MENTIONED the two grease jerk fittings just before the universal area.....

    I just grease those yesterday, along with oil / filter, and spark plugs changed when putting bike away for the winter season.....

    Ronnie

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbillone View Post
    For sure Mike, there's always a 'back story' and a 'why' of it all, curiosity leads me to 'want to know' but rarely is that possible, just gotta accept, it is what it is. My thought's are, why not just spell out out how many ounces for each diff, or each different plug in the differential, instead of the 'finger check'? I guess there's a reason for that too.
    Because the finger check is the most accurate....Stick your finger in and if its dry ' Not Enough fluid , If its wet your good to go why confuse people with numbers and ounces ......Back in my caveman days i would fill the differentials/axles on my vehicles so as when i removed the plug the fluid would just start weeping out...
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    Because the finger check is the most accurate....Stick your finger in and if its dry ' Not Enough fluid , If its wet your good to go why confuse people with numbers and ounces ......Back in my caveman days i would fill the differentials/axles on my vehicles so as when i removed the plug the fluid would just start weeping out...
    Stick your finger in and if its dry ' Not Enough fluid , If its wet your good to go why confuse people with numbers and ounces

    On mine they specify exactly one quart. Now I hear a little less is better but realistically I found that when pumping from the bottle to the differential it was impossible to get all of it out so I'm just right. BTW, on my RS the trailer hitch bracket prevents me from getting my fat, stubby fingers anywhere near the fill hole to check the level. I have to use some other tool. Not easy at all.

    Back in my caveman days i would fill the differentials/axles on my vehicles so as when i removed the plug the fluid would just start weeping out...

    Do that on the new ones and they say it will cause them to leak into CV joints or blow the pinion seal. That's why they are very specific regarding the amount of oil to put in the differential.
    Wing with Roadsmith kit, Traxxion Ak20 cartridges and Accuride System.

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    Mike, my very thought to Rino, but I let it go. With the hitch, there's almost no way anyone can get aq finger in that fill hole, think I mentioned that in a previous comment. My fear, is getting too much if you spot some over fill and blowing a seal. I had a professional trike builder do mine, so I hope he got it right, sure charged me enough. My next oil change when I have my sled up on car ramps, I'll get a good light and see what I can see.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbillone View Post
    Mike, my very thought to Rino, but I let it go. With the hitch, there's almost no way anyone can get aq finger in that fill hole, think I mentioned that in a previous comment. My fear, is getting too much if you spot some over fill and blowing a seal. I had a professional trike builder do mine, so I hope he got it right, sure charged me enough. My next oil change when I have my sled up on car ramps, I'll get a good light and see what I can see.
    I drove the trike about ten miles to warm up diff, removed the fill and drain plug and went to have lunch. When I came back I put a hand pump into the quart bottle of rear end oil and pumped it into the diff. Couldn't quite get all of it out of the bottle and up the pump's hose so a little less than a quart. Worked like a champ and no chance of over filling.

    If you have diff that requires less, simply remove excess from bottle before pumping and get on with it. Again, no chance of overfilling.

    One like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=quar...37675711063167
    Wing with Roadsmith kit, Traxxion Ak20 cartridges and Accuride System.

    07 ST 1300 for two-wheeled fun!

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