Roadsmith rear brake install

[dmccord]

Has anyone replaced rear brake pads on their Roadsmith, if so, looking for any advice before I get started on this, and how did you bleed brakes afterwards?

[Gold Rush]

Has anyone replaced rear brake pads on their Roadsmith, if so, looking for any advice before I get started on this, and how did you bleed brakes afterwards?

Dan, you should not need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads. In fact, you should check the rear reservoir and if it's anywhere near full suck some of the fluid out because when you push the caliper pucks in it will force fluid back into the reservoir causing overflow. Once you have the new pads in place and pumped up, fill the reservoir to the proper level.

All that being said, if you really think the brakes need to the air bleeding done you can download the install pdf file for you conversion from Roadsmith's web site and follow the bleeding instructions.

[mhgoldwing]

I have changed mine three times for various reasons and it's pretty easy.

1. Remove rear wheel(s) if you cannot jack up whole trike.

2. Remove two very small cotter pins from rods that hold brake pads in place.

3. Push/pry on caliper to push back so brake pads have room to move. (Doesn't take much)

4. Pull pins out. (while they are out, clean brake pad pins and smooth off with scotchbrite pad to remove all road grime and residue. I put a small dab of brake grease on pins to coat and reinstall.)

5. Pull old pads out and replace. Note orientation of backing plate when removing old pads.

6. Reverse order to reinstall.

Bleeding the rear brakes is easy. NOTE: THIS IS ONLY FOR THOSE TRIKES WITH THE DE-LINKED BRAKES. IF YOU HAVE THE NEW LINKED BRAKES THEN CALL ROADSMITH OR CHECK YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL.

Use only the upper bleeder. Start with the left caliper and bleed until new fluid arrives and all air bubbles are gone. Then go to right caliper and repeat. Fill reservoir to upper mark, close her up and go have some liquid refreshment.

[dmccord]

Thanks to both of you, I looked at it and it didn't look that simple. I printed off your instructions. Thanks again, Dan.

[Solidbob]

I've done this twice / so here's my write up and I'll include photos also, this works on most Roadsmith and quite a few Champion calipers as they are the same / VW Calipers:



Installed the New EBC pads last weekend so not that many miles yet but a great improvement. Here is what I found when I removed the Original pads and I'll post some photos... took all of 30 minutes to do. Step one was getting it on the lift and stable and removing the wheels and tires. Step two was staring at the new pads and the calipers to see what to remove (took longer than changing pads). Step three - there are two pins that the pads slide & move on, those two pins are held in place by two very small clips between the caliper and the pads on the inside, needle nose removing the clips (don't loose them, hard to find VW parts), once the clips are out take a screwdriver the same size or smaller and push the pins back till you can pull them out to the inside. Step four take the spring retainer, the pads and the shims out noticing how the retainer is positioned.

Here's another picture of how the shims ride on the pads, the shims are not long enough to be fully pressed by the brake piston, they only catch half of the piston (maybe caused a lack of full pressure against the pad). You will notice the EBC pads have the shim fixed to the lower portion of the pad and in line with the full piston. Prior to reassembly lightly scuff the brake rotor front and back to remove any rust from setting up and giving the pads something new to bite against.

Step five is reassembly, you will need a piston compressor or a small square piece of wood to pry against with a long screwdriver to move the pistons back, (don't pinch the piston boot or you get more work) to allow the new pads to be installed / Check your brake fluid reservoir that it is not totally full prior to doing this, if its to full you may need to remove a little fluid to have room for the fluid to flow back to the master cylinder / remember you have (2) side to do.

Once you have the pistons pushed back reassemble (No Grease of any kind) in the order you removed and make sure the rotors only lightly drag the pads / No Pedal Pressure yet!! / your done with that one so now do the other side same as this one. Once both sides are installed pump the rear pedal to seat the pads and check for the sight drag of the pads on the rotors and your done.. sounds involved but really doesn't take that long.

Here are the photos: the Roadsmith Caliper, close up showing assembly and he (2) clips in the pins, ETC. They do work better already and I have a few more miles to go breaking them in totally. I think the shim not centered was the main problem it didn't matter when it was a VW as it had more pedal pressure. Contact Roadsmith and ask for a set of #DP4105R EBC pads or purchase them online at a number of places, guaranteed better stopping power... Hope this helps ..

[ssstubaf]

Hi Y'all! Does anyone have a part number and/or make & model of car for these brake pads?? Roadsmith is typically silent after two email requests! Their customer service sucks!!!!!!

Thanks!

Don Liller

[ammoman]

Where did you get the retaining springs? My original pads were straight across the top and the EBC pads are lower. The original were way too big so I went without.

[bikerbillone]

I find it unusual for Roadsmith to not respond, I agree, not good PR for them. Think I'd try giving then a 'phone call, But I'm with you, always good to have something you can read for reference. There is a special sub forum here for RS, maybe give that a shot, but again, if they're not monitoring their emails, that may not work either. Hope you get an answer to your question, 'cause I'd like to know about the 'keeper springs' too. I suspect yours might be 'disabled' and you're not riding while trying to get an answer, that's not good either.

[Burnerboy]

Thank you for those pictures and info.............

Ronnie

[bikerbillone]

Well duh, my bad for not checking all the posts, SolidBob comes through once again, this guy really knows a lot and willing to share. Thumbs up to Bob,

[tourman]

What's involved to remove the rotors? Another project

I've done this twice / so here's my write up and I'll include photos also, this works on most Roadsmith and quite a few Champion calipers as they are the same / VW Calipers:



Installed the New EBC pads last weekend so not that many miles yet but a great improvement. Here is what I found when I removed the Original pads and I'll post some photos... took all of 30 minutes to do. Step one was getting it on the lift and stable and removing the wheels and tires. Step two was staring at the new pads and the calipers to see what to remove (took longer than changing pads). Step three - there are two pins that the pads slide & move on, those two pins are held in place by two very small clips between the caliper and the pads on the inside, needle nose removing the clips (don't loose them, hard to find VW parts), once the clips are out take a screwdriver the same size or smaller and push the pins back till you can pull them out to the inside. Step four take the spring retainer, the pads and the shims out noticing how the retainer is positioned.

Here's another picture of how the shims ride on the pads, the shims are not long enough to be fully pressed by the brake piston, they only catch half of the piston (maybe caused a lack of full pressure against the pad). You will notice the EBC pads have the shim fixed to the lower portion of the pad and in line with the full piston. Prior to reassembly lightly scuff the brake rotor front and back to remove any rust from setting up and giving the pads something new to bite against.

Step five is reassembly, you will need a piston compressor or a small square piece of wood to pry against with a long screwdriver to move the pistons back, (don't pinch the piston boot or you get more work) to allow the new pads to be installed / Check your brake fluid reservoir that it is not totally full prior to doing this, if its to full you may need to remove a little fluid to have room for the fluid to flow back to the master cylinder / remember you have (2) side to do.

Once you have the pistons pushed back reassemble (No Grease of any kind) in the order you removed and make sure the rotors only lightly drag the pads / No Pedal Pressure yet!! / your done with that one so now do the other side same as this one. Once both sides are installed pump the rear pedal to seat the pads and check for the sight drag of the pads on the rotors and your done.. sounds involved but really doesn't take that long.

Here are the photos: the Roadsmith Caliper, close up showing assembly and he (2) clips in the pins, ETC. They do work better already and I have a few more miles to go breaking them in totally. I think the shim not centered was the main problem it didn't matter when it was a VW as it had more pedal pressure. Contact Roadsmith and ask for a set of #DP4105R EBC pads or purchase them online at a number of places, guaranteed better stopping power... Hope this helps ..