Rear main seal drip...

[CaveManDave]

From above the bottom motor mount between the motor and gearbox. All other drips are fixed, but this issue just persists. The drip pan show overnight accumulation. Is it time to pull the motor and fly wheel? Will I have to disturb the rest of the motor while replacing the seal? I am just a little bummed.

I stepped up to a flame thrower distributor and bosch coil for spark and the new valve covers...

 

[rhino 2]

i had a 71 and a 73 Bettle both of them dripped at that spot.. Both engines had over 150 thousand miles with out a problem.. I sold the 71 for the 73 that one had over 160 thousand miles before it was totaled by a red light runner in Manhattan. That said i'm the type of guy who just leaves things alone till it breaks.. Then i'll fix it...:Shrug:

 

[Sidecarbill]

I would pull the engine. Check the flywheel isn't loose. The torque on the nut is well over 200 ft lbs. we've got people here with more experience than me. I'm sure you'll hear from them. Its new build thats my concern.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I you want to stop the leak you gotta take it apart.
The rear seal or a loose flywheel is a common problem.*
If it has been all apart the cam plug can leak.

 

[CaveManDave]

What is the best main seal/clutch/flywheel to purchase.

While replacing the main seal, I will take a good look and inspect the flywheel. I will look for saturation on the clutch too.

I can't imagine that the clutch has too much oil leakage on it, but I am feeling slight gear slippage at higher revs. I am going to adjust and see if I can get that taken care of.

 

[Fowler]

I had a leak like that. I thought it was the "rear" main seal. (front/rear we know what seal we are talking about)
anyway I pulled the engine and found it was the cam plug.

 

[CaveManDave]

I will take a look at that too. TY

 

[MdKnightMan]

if you take off the flywheel you also want to check your end play after. Too little can be just as bad as too much.

 

[stinger608]

Dave,

That is a very common leak, especially after having an engine sit for a long time.

If you don't have one of these tools:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036

I would get one man. They are priceless when it comes to removing/installing flywheel and rear hubs.

As for the "best" seal you'll find that most companies sell the red silicon seal. That is probably the best a person is going to find. Don't go to NAPA or any other local parts house as they will most likely sell you the black rubber type and they are not that good of a seal.

 

[CaveManDave]

Pitting holes in the end of the crank. Re-ringed only after told that it was a full new build. Opened the engine and it is what it is. I do not trust the build up of the 1600.

I am putting in a different motor. 1776 coming soon. More details to come.

 

[stinger608]

Ah, a 1776 will make that puppy fly man!!!

I'm quite sure you will see a very notable difference between a stock 1600 and a 1776. :clapping:

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Go big if gotta go.....
Build a stroker..... 82mm aint that hard.
Of course why not an 86mm.
2387 mmmh hmmmm

 

[Fowler]

Dave,

If you don't have one of these tools:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7036

This tool reminds me of my days working on M1 tanks
We used a torque multiplayer when replacing the Breach. Although the one we used was a lot bigger and produced a lot more torque it was still the same principle