Tail light fit update

[BobH 4]

If you read in my previous post I have a problem with the fit of my tail lights on my 2015 Goldwing HTS kit. I sent them pictures and of course it`s hard see. So I went to Americade so the company rep. could see first hand what my problem is, and of course Roadsmith was not there this year, so I called. Their answer was that they were made that way for easy removal of the tail light. How often do you remove the tail light?........My thoughts exactly!! Let me explain....one problem is that I can put the blade of a pocket jack knife( to the hilt) between the tail light and the body on the trunk lid side of the light and slide it all the way to the top of the light with no problem. There are other fit problems also. At americade I looked at a lot of trikes with the same tail lights and no problems. Why mine, I don`t know. I can have it done right for an est. of $1500 for body work paint and labor, or live with it.

I can`t put chrome grills on my lights as that would make them look worse.

I just hope I don`t have any more issues with this kit as I guess I`m on my own.

Very disappointed with Roadsmiths response.

 

[mhgoldwing]

In your original post you stated the gap was 3/8".

That's this much |___|

A pocket knife blade is about this much || max. That's a lot of difference.

I'm not saying it's right but your description to the manufacturer needs to be accurate.

With the knife blade gap I'm wonder if this could be corrected by enlarging the mounting holes, trimming plastic on the taillight fixture somewhere, etc. Not the ideal maybe but fixable and I doubt anyone but you would know.

Hope you can get it modified to your satisfaction.

 

[BobH 4]

In your original post you stated the gap was 3/8".

That's this much |___|

A pocket knife blade is about this much || max. That's a lot of difference.

I'm not saying it's right but your description to the manufacturer needs to be accurate.

With the knife blade gap I'm wonder if this could be corrected by enlarging the mounting holes, trimming plastic on the taillight fixture somewhere, etc. Not the ideal maybe but fixable and I doubt anyone but you would know.

Hope you can get it modified to your satisfaction.

Where I can put the knife blade is only one spot of non fit. The whole tail light should go in about 1/4 in. but can`t because the tail light bucket isn`t deep enough. It`s hard to explain. If I new how to post pictures I would. And yes I can get it fixed to my satisfaction for $1500.

 

[tfdeputydawg]

Just a suggestion. Not seeing the problem, this may or not be a fix.
You say the lamp needs to move 1/4".
Based on that you could:
Remove the lamps.
Carefully remove the mounting studs from the mounting bosses of the lamp housing.
Shave material off the mounting boss ( a little at a time)
Carefully reinsert the studs and check the fit until you achieve the proper fit.
As you trim mounting boss height and test the fit, make sure the lamp is not contacting the body somewhere, preventing the lamp from moving further into the pocket!
That's a lot less than $1500.ThumbUp

 

[BobH 4]

Just a suggestion. Not seeing the problem, this may or not be a fix.
You say the lamp needs to move 1/4".
Based on that you could:
Remove the lamps.
Carefully remove the mounting studs from the mounting bosses of the lamp housing.
Shave material off the mounting boss ( a little at a time)
Carefully reinsert the studs and check the fit until you achieve the proper fit.
As you trim mounting boss height and test the fit, make sure the lamp is not contacting the body somewhere, preventing the lamp from moving further into the pocket!
That's a lot less than $1500.ThumbUp

I won`t get chance to try that for awhile however how do those studs come out? Is there a trick to remove them and how are they attached to the plastic? Just want to know as when the lights are removed, I`ll know what to do to continue. Thanks.

Bob

 

[Marc H]

When I put an aftermarket taillight on my last bike I stuck 3/8 black door insulation to the back of the light to eliminate the gap.

 

[tfdeputydawg]

I won`t get chance to try that for awhile however how do those studs come out?

Is there a trick to remove them and how are they attached to the plastic? Just want to know as when the lights are removed, I`ll know what to do to continue. Thanks.

Bob

They are "course" threaded and are driven into the housing mounting bosses. I would suggest a pair of pliers to hold the mounting boss with and another pair to back the stud out.
Takes a good bit of force to reach the break away torque to start the studs to back out. Please be careful as you may crack/break the housing! Housings are made using polycarbonate and are fairly "tough".
Also, when you reinsert the studs, try to "hit" the same housing threads, rather than allowing the studs to cut "new" threads.
I worked at a GM plant that produced lamps for GM cars/trucks and have used this technic many times while "tuning" mounting bosses to achieve proper lamp to vehicle fit. These "tunes" would then be transferred to the molds that form the production housings.

Again, this is a suggestion for you. You need to check clearances of the housing to the trike body to make sure you have enough "room" for the lamp to move deeper into the pocket.
A good way to do this is to layer modeling clay into the "lamp pocket".

Then push the lamp into the pocket.

Remove it and see the thickness of the clay. Do this several times as you shorten the bosses.
Tedious work but, the results will be worth it!


Wish I lived closer to you so I could take a look to see if this would even be possible!