Trike brake distribution

[rybeatty]

I am starting to build my sportster trike finally and I am trying to figure out the brakes. I have a dna rearend which will be here Tuesday and it has two calipers one for each wheel vs some that just have one on the differential anyway I have limited use of my legs and I want to run the line from my front master which is a 9/16 bore into a distribution block and run a line to the front and one to my rear and split to each wheel with more braking to go to rear. Does anyone see a flaw in my plan? Is the bore of the master big enough to accommodate this? Any help would be really appreciatted

[FuzzyWuzHe]

The only possible flaw I see is that maybe the front master might not have the umph to drive front and back. Some of the VW builders will probably chime in here. I read them always talking about just that issue all the time.

[rybeatty]

I am starting to build my sportster trike finally and I am trying to figure out the brakes. I have a dna rearend which will be here Tuesday and it has two calipers one for each wheel vs some that just have one on the differential anyway I have limited use of my legs and I want to run the line from my front master which is a 9/16 bore into a distribution block and run a line to the front and one to my rear and split to each wheel with more braking to go to rear. Does anyone see a flaw in my plan? Is the bore of the master big enough to accommodate this? Any help would be really appreciatted

Yeah I may need to go with a a bigger bor but I'm not sure what size. I don't want to have to buy one of those dual lever masters hell man theyes cost as much as trike kit!!

[peteg59]

I have my FLH brakes tied both front & rear off the stock 1990 front m/c & they work well, however I'm only running 1 rear caliper.
It does make a difference in adding another caliper/draw, on the stock factory hydraulic system but I don't know how much in your potential case.

There are scientific formulas that can determine the requirements, on paper, for what you are looking for. Those exact formulas & answers are way above my current pay grade!

My personal, for what it's worth?, advice is: Try tying both together using a T, and other misc. hardware, then take it for a "safe" test ride, & go from there....

[rybeatty]

I have my FLH brakes tied both front & rear off the stock 1990 front m/c & they work well, however I'm only running 1 rear caliper.
It does make a difference in adding another caliper/draw, on the stock factory hydraulic system but I don't know how much in your potential case.

There are scientific formulas that can determine the requirements, on paper, for what you are looking for. Those exact formulas & answers are way above my current pay grade!

My personal, for what it's worth?, advice is: Try tying both together using a T, and other misc. hardware, then take it for a "safe" test ride, & go from there....

yeah I guess I'll just have to set it all up and see how it works. If it isn't powerful enough I'll step it up a size or two and sell the old master. It's gonna have quite a bit of weight difference the rearend alone is another 165 lbs

[Loner]

Try it first with what you have. If the volume from the master cylinder is enough, the 9/16" bore sounds good. If you need more volume, don't go up in the bore much because the ratio of the smaller master cylinder bore versus large brake slave cylinder bore(s) is what makes the braking easier. Small master and larger slave bores. If you can't pump enough volume to operate the slave cylinders you need a master with longer stroke - don't go much higher on the bore (5/8" is often a good size for the master).

Also be sure to include a proportioning valve if you are tying in the front slave cylinder. It will be needed to reduce the pressure to the front slave. Otherwise your front wheel will likely lock up before the rear cylinders will be activated.

Just wait and see what you get with the brake cylinders you will have. Still you will need a proportioning valve.

Good luck. All advice is guaranteed or your money back.

[rybeatty]

Try it first with what you have. If the volume from the master cylinder is enough, the 9/16" bore sounds good. If you need more volume, don't go up in the bore much because the ratio of the smaller master cylinder bore versus large brake slave cylinder bore(s) is what makes the braking easier. Small master and larger slave bores. If you can't pump enough volume to operate the slave cylinders you need a master with longer stroke - don't go much higher on the bore (5/8" is often a good size for the master).

Also be sure to include a proportioning valve if you are tying in the front slave cylinder. It will be needed to reduce the pressure to the front slave. Otherwise your front wheel will likely lock up before the rear cylinders will be activated.

Just wait and see what you get with the brake cylinders you will have. Still you will need a proportioning valve.

Good luck. All advice is guaranteed or your money back.

I am gonna get a brake distribution block from jegs with the adjuster so I can put more brake to the back