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Thread: Reverse breaker keeps tripping....

  1. #1
    Bob's Curmudgeon Apprentice
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    Default Reverse breaker keeps tripping....

    Anybody else having this problem?

    So far, it's happened to me 5 times in the last week and a half. And so everyone knows, no, I haven't been hitting reverse and the brake at the same time. And no, I haven't been trying to reverse uphill.

    I've even tried turning my radio and passing lights off to lessen any extra electrical load. Sometimes it trips, sometimes it doesn't. I can guarantee I'll get it up to the shop and it won't trip while it's there, but will as soon as I get it back home.

    Present ride--2021 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Altitude

    Past rides…2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport...2015 TriGlide...2009 Night Train...2008 Yamaha royal star tour deluxe...2006 Yamaha Vstar 1300...2005 Yamaha majesty...2003 Honda reflex...1991 Kawasaki 454 ltd...1985 Honda Rebel...1984 Honda Elite

  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by consitter View Post
    Anybody else having this problem?

    So far, it's happened to me 5 times in the last week and a half. And so everyone knows, no, I haven't been hitting reverse and the brake at the same time. And no, I haven't been trying to reverse uphill.

    I've even tried turning my radio and passing lights off to lessen any extra electrical load. Sometimes it trips, sometimes it doesn't. I can guarantee I'll get it up to the shop and it won't trip while it's there, but will as soon as I get it back home.

    I notice on my amp meter on my 2106 TGU a large electrical drain when using reverse even on flat surfaces and remember someone recommending that you rev the engine with your throttle to decrease the drain when backing up. The increased revs do not increase the speed at which the reverse motor operates. This suggestion seems to work well as I have not had the circuit breaker kick out even once when backing up and I use the feature fairly frequently when necessary. You might want to try that and see if it keeps the circuit breaker from tripping?

  3. #3
    Bob's Curmudgeon Apprentice
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Bob View Post
    I notice on my amp meter on my 2106 TGU a large electrical drain when using reverse even on flat surfaces and remember someone recommending that you rev the engine with your throttle to decrease the drain when backing up. The increased revs do not increase the speed at which the reverse motor operates. This suggestion seems to work well as I have not had the circuit breaker kick out even once when backing up and I use the feature fairly frequently when necessary. You might want to try that and see if it keeps the circuit breaker from tripping?
    Actually, I have been doing just that. I will be on a grocery store parking lot, and it will work fine. Then when I get home and go to back in my driveway...nada. And the odd thing is the breaker is still in place. I have to hit the red button 2 or 3 times to get the switch to swing out. Then it doesn't want to *snap* back in. I know when it will actually work because I hear a snap when it goes back into place.

    It will stay in place without snapping, but reverse won't work.

    I appreciate you answering at this late hour.
    Present ride--2021 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Altitude

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  4. #4
    150+ Posts lah2420's Avatar
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    Default

    Sounds to me like the breaker itself has gone bad. If you can get a meter on it, see what your voltage does when in reverse to make sure it isn't dropping badly though. The motor tries to use the same amount of power no matter what the voltage. If the volts drops, it pulls more amps. Not sure what is acceptable in voltage drop though.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by consitter View Post
    Actually, I have been doing just that. I will be on a grocery store parking lot, and it will work fine. Then when I get home and go to back in my driveway...nada. And the odd thing is the breaker is still in place. I have to hit the red button 2 or 3 times to get the switch to swing out. Then it doesn't want to *snap* back in. I know when it will actually work because I hear a snap when it goes back into place. It will stay in place without snapping, but reverse won't work.

    I appreciate you answering at this late hour.
    I'll bet if you pull the reverse motor and open it up you'll find that the brushes are starting to crumble, I found that to be my problem... I cleaned them and sanded the commuter 3 times... Water and in my case riding in the slush puddles in the winter corrodes them..

    And after one total rebuild.. That lasted a year, I had a mechanical reverse installed.. If i want i can burn rubber in reverse..
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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  7. #6
    Bob's Curmudgeon Apprentice
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    I'll bet if you pull the reverse motor and open it up you'll find that the brushes are starting to crumble, I found that to be my problem... I cleaned them and sanded the commuter 3 times... Water and in my case riding in the slush puddles in the winter corrodes them.. And after one total rebuild.. That lasted a year, I had a mechanical reverse installed.. If i want i can burn rubber in reverse..
    I'll probably end up putting a mechanical reverse in once my service contract expires.
    Present ride--2021 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Altitude

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  8. #7
    900+ Posts HDB0B's Avatar
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    Default

    http://bradleyscycles.com/rebuild-ki...tric-83388-09a

    with the possibility of a bad reverse circuit breaker. It could also be that the reverse motor is just pulling too many amps .... possibly too tight a tolerance between the drive gear and the differential ring. A simple amp meter on the wiring can show how many amps the motor is pulling.

    I've read that some have experienced sticking brushes in the motor. Link above is to a brush rebuild kit.

    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by HDB0B View Post
    http://bradleyscycles.com/rebuild-ki...tric-83388-09a

    with the possibility of a bad reverse circuit breaker. It could also be that the reverse motor is just pulling too many amps .... possibly too tight a tolerance between the drive gear and the differential ring. A simple amp meter on the wiring can show how many amps the motor is pulling.

    I've read that some have experienced sticking brushes in the motor. Link above is to a brush rebuild kit.

    Bob
    Its about time someone started selling the brush/plate kit...Its also a good idea to change the Commutator, Or at least emery the rough/groves smooth on the commutator... Been there done that..+3...
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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  10. #9
    100+ Posts B Dawg's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Your situation sounds similar to mine. Next thing happened to me was breaker would reset, but reverse motor would not run. Checked amp draw and voltage from source, thru switch to breaker then to solenoid. All good. Removed the reverse motor and found three of the four brushes were stuck back away from the armature. Dust (some from brush wear) and moisture appeared to be the problem. Cleaned everything up and it's working fine now. I did find and purchase on the brush kits previously posted. It's in the cupboard in the garage just in case

  11. #10
    450+ Posts geezerglide11441's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by consitter View Post
    Anybody else having this problem?

    So far, it's happened to me 5 times in the last week and a half. And so everyone knows, no, I haven't been hitting reverse and the brake at the same time. And no, I haven't been trying to reverse uphill.

    I've even tried turning my radio and passing lights off to lessen any extra electrical load. Sometimes it trips, sometimes it doesn't. I can guarantee I'll get it up to the shop and it won't trip while it's there, but will as soon as I get it back home.

    Originally (after installing my 120r), when I tried to use my reverse my engine would die. I just increased my idle a little and all is well. She won't idle anywhere close to 1000 rpm so when I do use it, I keep the rpm up a little. However, I try not to use it at all. When I stop/park, I take note of the space and either pull in or back in so I do not have to use the reverse.

    Roger
    2013 TriGlide w/120st motor/PV w/TT Module/SE Roller Rockers/Smith Adj Push Rods/T-Man 577 cams/V&V Valve Springs/Wards Fans/SE Heavy Breather/High Capacity Oil Pan/Fuel Moto Power Duals/Kuryakn Slip-ons/2014 SE Compensator/2014 SE Clutch Assembly w/AIM VP024 Clutch Kit/Pro-Action Shocks/PS Mono-Tube fork assembly/Pntd Inner Faring/H-D Road Zeppelin Seat/Chrome Rear Bumper/Air Wing Luggage Rack/Garmin Road Tech Zumo 660/DK Customs Lift kit & Tour Pack leveling kit and Oil filter relocation kit.

  12. #11
    1250+ Posts Sloufoot's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    Its about time someone started selling the brush/plate kit...Its also a good idea to change the Commutator, Or at least emery the rough/groves smooth on the commutator... Been there done that..+3...
    You can get the plate here for $50:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rebuild-Kit-...00011%26rk%3D1
    %26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D131824693622

    But you should have the armature turned on a lathe or better yet an armature lathe. The armature lathe will also be able to under cut
    the mica separators in the commutator. If this isn't done correctly it will shorten the life of the brushes $ commutator
    2012 Tri-Glide, DK's Lift Brackets, 416 Progressive shocks, S&S Power Tune Duals Header, V&H Monster Rounds , HD Ventelator AC, FCS Fans, Tank raised 2", Dual Halogen Headlight, L.R.S 10" Tinted Windshield, Hammock Seat, Tourpak 1"raise & 2" back & Light conversion, PV w/Target Tune, Bagger Bar, Harley 2" pullback bars, Running AmsOil in all Boxes.

  13. #12
    100+ Posts Tuccandler's Avatar
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    Default Rev Breaker

    Consitter, it sounds like you need it to fail and have the motor company fix it under warranty. How far are you from the nearest shop? if you are still a HOG member then let it fail and call them to pick it up. You may need to raise your voice but they will change that breaker or at least inspect the motor.
    I'm on a 2013 with 42510 miles and have never had a failure...........probably just jinxed myself.

    Hope it works out for you.

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  14. #13
    Bob's Curmudgeon Apprentice
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    It failed twice today on me. And it's done something totally weird that it hadn't done before. When I reset it, I put it in neutral like I'm supposed to, then put it in reverse. Except when I put it in reverse the 'N' for neutral on the dash went out. I hit the reverse lever and nothing--until I blipped the gas, then backwards it went.

    Curiouser and curiouser....need to take a trip to the shop if I can find the time.
    Present ride--2021 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Altitude

    Past rides…2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport...2015 TriGlide...2009 Night Train...2008 Yamaha royal star tour deluxe...2006 Yamaha Vstar 1300...2005 Yamaha majesty...2003 Honda reflex...1991 Kawasaki 454 ltd...1985 Honda Rebel...1984 Honda Elite

  15. #14
    150+ Posts lah2420's Avatar
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    Since you should still be in warranty, sounds like a trip to the dealer is best. It sure sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. Whether a ground or hot wire, it may be fun to chase down. Of course, if it is the battery you may not be covered. I forgot what the warranty is on those.

  16. #15
    Bob's Curmudgeon Apprentice
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    Quote Originally Posted by lah2420 View Post
    Since you should still be in warranty, sounds like a trip to the dealer is best. It sure sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. Whether a ground or hot wire, it may be fun to chase down. Of course, if it is the battery you may not be covered. I forgot what the warranty is on those.
    I also bought the service plan, so I'm covered for one battery in the first 3 years.
    Present ride--2021 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Altitude

    Past rides…2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport...2015 TriGlide...2009 Night Train...2008 Yamaha royal star tour deluxe...2006 Yamaha Vstar 1300...2005 Yamaha majesty...2003 Honda reflex...1991 Kawasaki 454 ltd...1985 Honda Rebel...1984 Honda Elite

  17. DKCustoms postbit
  18. #16
    150+ Posts lah2420's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by consitter View Post
    I also bought the service plan, so I'm covered for one battery in the first 3 years.
    I'll remember that. I bought the service plan a couple of months ago-with tire and wheel- after Shreveport roads cost me a $400 tow and front tire replacement on a weekend trip. Still leaves me 16 months on the battery.

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