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Thread: Upper Trunk Taillight Removal

  1. #1
    250+ Posts dawingrider's Avatar
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    Default Upper Trunk Taillight Removal

    2006 GL1800 w/MT Conversion

    So I'm attempting to install Electrical Connection's Trunk Light Reconfiguration Harness which requires the removal of the tail light panels inside the trunk. The issue is that the acorn nuts must be frozen to the tail light studs as they are just spinning the stud along with the nut.

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    That at is a real bugger Jim! I'd suggest some heat but since the studs are already turning I don't see any choice but to use something (maybe a Dremel tool with cutoff disc) to cut the nut and/or stud off then replace the studs once the housing is free.... Not an ideal solution but probably the only one..

    Quote Originally Posted by dawingrider View Post
    2006 GL1800 w/MT Conversion

    So I'm attempting to install Electrical Connection's Trunk Light Reconfiguration Harness which requires the removal of the tail light panels inside the trunk. The issue is that the acorn nuts must be frozen to the tail light studs as they are just spinning the stud along with the nut.

    Any ideas?
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  3. #3
    250+ Posts dawingrider's Avatar
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    Default

    Yeah, I hate to have to that get that involved but may have to. Even if I decide to forego the reconfiguration, one day I'll have to replace the bulbs and then be right back to this point.

  4. #4
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dawingrider View Post
    Yeah, I hate to have to that get that involved but may have to. Even if I decide to forego the reconfiguration, one day I'll have to replace the bulbs and then be right back to this point.
    This was a real problem with early year GL1800s for some reason. When guys first started talking about it I tried my '01. I was lucky, they came loose before the studs broke free. I put silicone grease on them and snugged them down. Did the same on my '06 and again my '15. Don't want that issue while on the road if a bulb were to burn out.
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  5. #5
    100+ Posts
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    Default

    I had the same situation with mine. The problem is that the acorn nuts are recessed into a hole where if you are able to get something like a Dremmel tool in there, you can't see any thing. By trying to cut the nuts I wound up wrecking the plastic area around the nuts.
    I finally changed direction and went thru the rear lens to get to the back of the studs. I bought a set of rear light assemblies from e-bay. They are much cheaper than replacing a trunk. Mine were so tight when I finally got to the base of the stud that I had to use vise grips to break the nuts loose. Cap nuts seem to be the problem, as they tend to bottom out on the studs. Good luck!!

  6. #6
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Good Point!! I forgot about the recess!!!
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

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