Floor Boards...???

[BOXX3R]

I found this beautiful sliver of WENGE wood (1/4" thick by 5+" wide x 7' long) at a local exotic wood supply and decided to try and make me some custom real wooden floor boards.

Once I get them finished, I just have to figure out how to mount the boards to the floor board base, with some sort of rubber isolator in between.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Nice ... could you use the "bulbs" from a stock board and epoxy them to the wood ... maybe sink them in a hole?

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Not familiar with that wood ... does it need to be protected? IE, verathane (-5 sp) or varnish? Or does it weather like teak and just get better looking?

[BOXX3R]

Nice ... could you use the "bulbs" from a stock board and epoxy them to the wood ... maybe sink them in a hole?



Not familiar with that wood ... does it need to be protected? IE, verathane (-5 sp) or varnish? Or does it weather like teak and just get better looking?

I thought about that or epoxying some shortened toilet bolts to the underside of the boards and then making some kind of damper, maybe made with flex-seal to isolate the vibrations. But before I do anything else I think I will go on a naked ride (no ruber floor board inserts) and see just how much vibration there is. Then I can decide 'how' I need to mount them.

It is a VERY Hard wood. It sounded like steel when I was shaping them on the sander. But it splinters really easy so I will have to coat t with some sort of sealer, probably with some non-skid material added to make them non slip.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

They sure are pretty though.

[graygoat]

They look nice and I would expect the grain to "pop" more when you get finish on them. Glad you are thinking about the "slip" factor, could be an issue. Post up when done.

[DK Custom Products]

I found this beautiful sliver of WENGE wood (1/4" thick by 5+" wide x 7' long) at a local exotic wood supply and decided to try and make me some custom real wooden floor boards.

Once I get them finished, I just have to figure out how to mount the boards to the floor board base, with some sort of rubber isolator in between.

Those look really nice. Just a heads-up... If your boot or floorboard get wet, beware your boot will slip on them.

If you would like some rubber isolators that will fit perfectly, just send me an email at Kevin@DKCustomProducts.com I will send you some to use on your boards, no cost.

Kevin

[Keystone]

Wenge holds up to the weather really well. A coat or two of a marine varnish with UV protection will help stop it from turning grey. You could add some very fine grit to it to help with traction when wet.
Is it were me I would use some short fine thread screws and attach from under the bottom.

[BOXX3R]

Those look really nice. Just a heads-up... If your boot or floorboard get wet, beware your boot will slip on them.

If you would like some rubber isolators that will fit perfectly, just send me an email at Kevin@DKCustomProducts.com I will send you some to use on your boards, no cost.

Kevin

Thank you for the heads up, and the very generous offer. I have been looking for rubber grommets to use as spacers/isolators between the base and the boards. Those sound like they 'wood' be perfect. I will email you as soon as I post this. Thanks

Originally I wanted to mount these with no visible screws or bolts. kind of like the stock boards are mounted, but these boards are so thin @ 1/4" that might not be possible or safe. So I think I will mount them with isolators and flathead bolts through the boards, spacers and base, and I made this mock up template (see pic) to see if I liked the look. The lines will be routed into the board (approx 3/32"deep) to add grip and channels for water to run off, just like on a boat. The two inner corner bolts will be fake (not bolted to the base) to balance out the look of the floorboard.

I also plan to put a few coats Helmsman Indoor/Outdoor SPAR URETHANE Clear Semi-Gloss with some Interlux Polymeric Nonskid Compound mixed in to give the boards a no slip surface.

This stuff dries clear and has the consistency of powered sugar but slightly grainy. Below is a video of deck that I made for a stand up scooter. I used this non-skid compound on it as well, and you can hear the difference between the urethanne without any non skid in it and the center section that does have non-skid mixed in.

[DK Custom Products]

Thank you for the heads up, and the very generous offer. I have been looking for rubber grommets to use as spacers/isolators between the base and the boards. Those sound like they 'wood' be perfect. I will email you as soon as I post this. Thanks

Originally I wanted to mount these with no visible screws or bolts. kind of like the stock boards are mounted, but these boards are so thin @ 1/4" that might not be possible or safe. So I think I will mount them with isolators and flathead bolts through the boards, spacers and base, and I made this mock up template (see pic) to see if I liked the look. The lines will be routed into the board (approx 3/32"deep) to add grip and channels for water to run off, just like on a boat. The two inner corner bolts will be fake (not bolted to the base) to balance out the look of the floorboard.

I also plan to put a few coats Helmsman Indoor/Outdoor SPAR URETHANE Clear Semi-Gloss with some Interlux Polymeric Nonskid Compound mixed in to give the boards a no slip surface.

This stuff dries clear and has the consistency of powered sugar but slightly grainy. Below is a video of deck that I made for a stand up scooter. I used this non-skid compound on it as well, and you can hear the difference between the urethanne without any non skid in it and the center section that does have non-skid mixed in.

Very cool! Def one of a kind!

Received your email, isolators are headed your way tomorrow.

Kevin

[BOXX3R]

Very cool! Def one of a kind!

Received your email, isolators are headed your way tomorrow.

Kevin

Thank you very much Kevin, your generosity is MUCH appreciated.

With that in mind I went ahead and drilled and countersunk the mounting holes, then routed in mock plank lines to aid in the grip, and there is still plenty of meat left in these 1/4" thick boards. Then I used magic marker (just for now) to see what they might look like.
Not bad and I am sure they will look even better once I paint the lines with black paint, then get them both covered in a couple coats of Urethane.

[BOXX3R]

While waiting for the isolators I put two coats of black acrylic in the traction lines, let it dry overnight and then sanded any excess paint for nice and crisp edges. I won't know how long the bolts need to be until I get the isolators, but I did a mock up with blackhead bolts and stainless bolts.

I like both looks. Next comes the Urethane.

[BOXX3R]

I got the underside protected with two coats of Urethane. Tomorrow I will flip them over and do the business side.

[Thor]

I thought about that or epoxying some shortened toilet bolts to the underside of the boards and then making some kind of damper, maybe made with flex-seal to isolate the vibrations. But before I do anything else I think I will go on a naked ride (no ruber floor board inserts) and see just how much vibration there is. Then I can decide 'how' I need to mount them.

It is a VERY Hard wood. It sounded like steel when I was shaping them on the sander. But it splinters really easy so I will have to coat t with some sort of sealer, probably with some non-skid material added to make them non slip.

That was going to be my suggestion....epozy shortened bolts, then urethane the wood to protect it (with a strip of griptape or the texturing stuff you can put in the urethane?)

(ETA) looks like you started (that's what I get for viewing on phone). Looks outstanding

Looks gorgeous with the wood on there....

[BOXX3R]

I got the boards sanded and then before putting on the top coat I decided to test fit them to the pans and drill the extra mounting holes.

I got the grommets that Kevin sent (Thanks they are PURRRRRFECT) and will also use some additional rubber spacers to get the boards high enough to allow the use of the re-located heal guard.

Next I will take them back apart and lay on the top coat and scratch coat

[Thor]

I got the boards sanded and then before putting on the top coat I decided to test fit them to the pans and drill the extra mounting holes.

I got the grommets that Kevin sent (Thanks they are PURRRRRFECT) and will also use some additional rubber spacers to get the boards high enough to allow the use of the re-located heal guard.

Next I will take them back apart and lay on the top coat and scratch coat

Looks awesome. Great handiwork PMBOXX3R! And you'll be the only one to have something like that

[BOXX3R]

Before I mount these puppys I have them sitting in the sun for a few hours to warm them up and for the urethane to settle down. Not sure why, but it sounded like a good idea until I get motivated to finish the install.

[BOXX3R]

I thought I wanted black hardware. But I am now leaning towards the SS hardware to add to the 'contrast' look???

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Put me down for the darker ... makes your eye go to the gorgeous wood ... not the screw.

[BOXX3R]

For now I am going with.....Black Bolts Matter, plus they are what I have. And I think Fuzzy is right, the SS bolts might draw attention away from the beauty of the wood.
I have ordered some 1/4" thinner rubber grommets/spacers to see if I can get the boards lower into/onto the pan. Once I get them I will make the final decision on bolts.

[Fearless]

The spacing seems about the same as my HD isolator boards I have on old Shiney ride safely fearless

For now I am going with.....Black Bolts Matter, plus they are what I have. And I think Fuzzy is right, the SS bolts might draw attention away from the beauty of the wood.
I have ordered some 1/4" thinner rubber grommets/spacers to see if I can get the boards lower into/onto the pan. Once I get them I will make the final decision on bolts.