Motor Trike Axle Seals

[Judge Judy]

I need to replace the axle seals on my 2007 Motor Trike. The original part number is National 8660 S. NAPA carries 2 comparable parts: one with a width of .469" (#13990) and one with a width of .5" (#13992). Inside and outside diameter specs are the same for both parts. Anyone know which is the correct seal? UPDATE: Spoke with Richard at MT, and advised either one will work. Width does not matter - but size does... No further comment on that. ;^}

Also same question for the brake shoes: original part number is PAB 474R by Wagner. NAPA has TS 474 and TS 569.

Anyone know which replacement part to use? UPDATE: found the part on line with original Wagner number.

I am not able to take the parts off myself, so I cannot just bring them in to NAPA to compare.

I am trying to convince my car mechanic to do the job, and thought having the parts in hand might help twist his arm!

Thanks. And thanks to Richard, who was extremely helpful and took the time to answer all my questions.

[paid4c4]

Also same question for the brake shoes: original part number is PAB 474R by Wagner. NAPA has TS 474 and TS 569. Anyone know which replacement part to use? UPDATE: found the part on line with original Wagner number.

When you indicate brake shoes do you mean brake pads? I have an 06 Motor Trike and have brake pads.

Bill

[Judge Judy]

They are different then brake pads; they are 9" long X 1 3/4" wide, and curved to fit into the brake drum. They are held in place with springs and clips. Two shoes per wheel. I think drum brakes, which I have on my 2007 MT, have "shoes" and disc brakes typically have "pads." The "pads" fit into brake calipers. They look completely different. Sounds like you have disc brakes, which I think are better.

[CrystalPistol]

Also same question for the brake shoes: original part number is PAB 474R by Wagner. NAPA has TS 474 and TS 569. Anyone know which replacement part to use? UPDATE: found the part on line with original Wagner number.

Both of those Napa brake shoe numbers will reline Ford 9" x 1-3/4" drum brakes (which refers to drum inside diameter & width) .... very popular drum brakes used many years on many Fords. The Wagner number is for their ThermoQuiet line of brake pads (for disc) & shoes (for drums).

Maybe you've already done so ..... but if not .... stress to your mechanic that the axle seal and rear brake relining job are virtually same as if it was a Ford Pinto, Thunderbird, Mustang, etc.

Disc have their advantages in that they are lighter and cool faster once heated, but drum brakes will wear longer and have the added feature of self energizing in use which means the rotation of the wheel when the brake is applied tends to wedge the shoes against the anchor pin and increase braking effort without increasing need for application pressure. Disc are like trying to grab a spinning disc with two fingers, there is no self energizing effect. Drum brakes also stay dry even when it raining cats and dogs so there is not that first few moments of application in rain when you spend time drying them.

These drum brakes are large enough and your trike light enough that you ain't likely to overheat them.

NASCAR used drum brakes up into the '70s .....

most of Richard's 200 wins were with drum brakes. Just sayin' ..........

[Judge Judy]

Thanks for the info. I feel better about them already - although I think I'll continue to rely on those front brakes until I see how my new brake job works!

[CrystalPistol]

Thanks for the info. I feel better about them already - although I think I'll continue to rely on those front brakes until I see how my new brake job works!

I wouldn't totally ignore those rear brakes when slowing / stopping. Your trike is much heavier than it was as a bike and relying only on the fronts will quickly overheat the rotors, use up pads, wear the front tire, and most importantly ..... your training yourself with a bad habit if done continuously. Don't be afraid to use those drum brakes, they are bigger than needed for a trike for sure. I did my first drum brake job when I was 16 ..... 46 years ago. They are really easy. I simply took both drums off and did one side at a time using the other side for reference. Shoe with longest lining always goes on rear side, short shoe to front.

(see pic) Any mechanic worthy of working on your car's brakes can do it.

I do adjust mine a hair as needed when getting ready for any longer trips and always when I do my preseason service. I also added a 10 psi residual pressure valve in the rear brake line that keeps 10 psi on the rears only as the brake return springs will pull them away from drums ..... but 10 psi keeps the seals, etc "full".

Disc brakes may look sexy to some, but clean painted finned brake drums with no brake dust looks good to me too. Only drawback is a couple pounds weight (not as much as some think) ..... and ... "Oh yeah, I fergot" ..... if you ford a creek and submerge the drums, they may take a moment to dry out but I've never done that on my trike.

And another thing ....

drum rear brakes don't make near as much brake dust mess .....

[Judge Judy]

Just an update: got my car mechanic to do the work, which, except for not having a trike lift and having to get on the ground to do it, I actually think he enjoyed it. Guy used to ride Honda's until the late 80's. Brought him all the parts he needed to do the job, so the only charge was for labor. $215 to drop the axle and replace the two seals and installed new brake shoes all around. Adjusted everything, and he even bled the brakes just for good measure, even though he didn't have to touch the hydraulic system, since the pedal seemed a little mushy to him. I think I made out well, and am happy the bike is back home. Thanks again for everyone's input.