Floor jack lifting point? 03 with MotorTrike (Spyder)

[Metal_Bob]

So where exactly do I jack up my 03 with a motor Trike kit?

I started to lift it centered on rear differential case, but it started to tip to one side before I could finish hacking and insert stands.

Fyi. I'm trying to get to, check and/or refill the differential oils. I also have the cover gasket and some rtv. The is signs of leakage.

 

[jredman]

So where exactly do I jack up my 03 with a motor Trike kit?

I started to lift it centered on rear differential case, but it started to tip to one side before I could finish hacking and insert stands.

Fyi. I'm trying to get to, check and/or refill the differential oils. I also have the cover gasket and some rtv. The is signs of leakage.

I have a nice flat floor jack that I put under the back on the under frame. Can lift it up from there. If I change the oil, I drive the trike up on 3 rhino ramps.

 

[Metal_Bob]

I do have a flat "motorcycle" jack I haven't tried yet. I'm working nights this week and it was already 90F in the garage so I didn't mess with the jacks to much yet.

I guess a second question is where to put jack stands if actually working on the rear axle. I guess the motorcycle jack and where ever else I can find for the stands should do the job of supporting the trike with the wheels off and rear end in the air...

I was hoping to avoid any major work for a while since I just got this used trike, but it does sound a bit loud and clunky back there, so I might as well check the oil and diff gears while I have the cover off... Once I can get to the refill hole that is...

 

[Gold Rush]

jredman, Bob has a solid axle conversion. A lot different from your SRS kit

Bob I have two friends with spider.2+2 kits that I have recently worked on. Put a small block of soft wood in your floor jack cup then position it under either rear Heim joint bracket. Jack that side up and put a jack stand between the tire and muffler. Do the same on the other side.

Just a side note. If you don't have a service manual, here is the link to download it.

http://www.junkmaster.com/kj5ix/MTServiceManual.pdf :xszpv::xszpv:

 

[Metal_Bob]

Jews man, Bob has a solid axle conversion. A lot different from your SRS kit

Bob I have two friends with spider.2+2 kits that I have recently worked on. Put a small block of soft wood in your floor jack cup then position it under either rear Heim joint bracket. Jack that side up and put a jack stand between the tire and muffler. Do the same on the other side.

Just a side note. If you don't have a service manual, here is the link to download it.

http://www.junkmaster.com/kj5ix/MTServiceManual.pdf :xszpv::xszpv:

Thanks for the side to side tip. Yes I have manual (printed it out), gasket, rtv and oil in stock.

 

[jredman]

I do have a flat "motorcycle" jack I haven't tried yet. I'm working nights this week and it was already 90F in the garage so I didn't mess with the jacks to much yet.

I guess a second question is where to put jack stands if actually working on the rear axle. I guess the motorcycle jack and where ever else I can find for the stands should do the job of supporting the trike with the wheels off and rear end in the air...

I was hoping to avoid any major work for a while since I just got this used trike, but it does sound a bit loud and clunky back there, so I might as well check the oil and diff gears while I have the cover off... Once I can get to the refill hole that is...

I have have stands as well. Not a fan of those especially if your are trying to get the rear tires off and on. Wheels do not fit well in the fenders and I yanked my trike right off the stands. Guess I am stronger than I thought. No damage, but will not use them again.

If you have something clunky, look at your ujoints as well.

 

[BOXX3R]

I can't help with 'where' the lift points are on a Can Am, but I saw this yesterday and thought it was pretty danged COOL and very compact for a lift capable of lifting a 3-wheeler.

Unfortunately because the company is in the UK and they do not sell the Harley Trike in the UK, they do not presently have one available for the Tri-Glide because they don't have a bike to get measurements from or to do any test fitting. So I took some pics and got some measurements they asked for, and hopefully soon they will be offering these compact and affordable lifts for us Harley guys as well.

 

[Metal_Bob]

Well I had some mixed results and it's time for some sleep again.

My Harbor Freight motorcycle jack does not fit under the bars for the aqua shield. Even if I take all of the that stuff off, I don't see anywhere to SAFELY jack up the middle of the bike with the jack.

Using my 1.5 ton HF floor jack, I did not feel very safe jacking it up. Additionally I only have 2 jack stands. I tried jacking up under the rear diff and under the tow receiver. Both spots allow the trike to severly lean towards one side.

I was barely able to reverse roll the trike up onto my plastic ramps (I forget which brand). [No one was awake or able to help push]. Then I floor jacked up the front end high enough to put my 2 jack stands under the beams connected to the aquashields. The bike is NEARLY level or so I thought.

After spraying the rear end drain plug with some penetrating fluid and several tries, I got the plug free and off.

The oil started draining out the plugs.

So the rear end has oil and the bike was not totally level (leaning forward a little).

So problem/project 1 is on hold or unnecessary unless I really want to change the seal and rear end oil for the heck of it.

(Oil didn't look that dirty).

Problem/project 2 may needed it's own post and/or a mechanic/MotorTrike dealer. That's checking and/or changing the drive shaft or the u-joints. Since I can barely get to the them and have no way at the moment to lift the rear end safely with the wheels off.

Before I start another post, does anyone have tips on checking the u-joints and/or removing the drive axle? Can it be done with the rear end still in place/assembled?

 

[Gold Rush]

PM sent.. :cxtv:

 

[txlander]

I don't know about the Spyder, but a while back I posted a set-up I made for the Adventure kit. Maybe it can give you an idea.

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threa...highlight=jack

The bolted on angle adds a little stability if it is off centered a little.

 

[Metal_Bob]

Thanks for tips so far.

With work and hot weather not getting much done yet.

I did realise I have a solid axle kit (with disc brakes and air shocks). I misunderstood the salesman but no big deal.

The heim joints have some surface rust and are probably bone dry. Same with drive shaft.

Well if I can't fix it all my self I do have 2 MT authorized dealers in town including a honda dealer.

So much for riding any time soon...

 

[Metal_Bob]

Since I have the trike in the air, I might just lube the heim joints and go for a short ride.

Might swing by MT dealer and inquire about a trike "inspection" type of service before I panic to much...

Spent way to much for a paperweight in the garage!

 

[Metal_Bob]

Well it's pouring on my day off, but at least it's not 95 degrees in Chattanooga.

Thanksfully my plastic tire ramps and Larkin creeper just barely allow me to roll under my trike.

I cleaned most of the oil and grime off the bottom of the rear diff. So now I can see if it's still leaking/seaping. Someone got crazy with the rtf, so I'm assuming no real gasket. Other than scrapping off old gasket silicone that should be a semi easy job.

Looking at my drive shaft, I'm guessing is a Gen1 motor trike shaft using gl1500 oem front end. Solid black front and no visible grease fittings. Getting that out after buying a female torx? Socket set should be easy-ish. However Motor trike parts were already gone by 11am on Friday. WTF?!

However I'm not sure if the new style drive shaft can be installed without loosening/removing the rear end. I don't see and springs to compress the shaft during install. Internal maybe?

The heim joints seem to move as desired (maybe a little snug). After lower the trike I might consult the manual for leveling directions.

I also noticed the left passenger foot board runs the fender/fender bra. More adjusting in my future.

For a p.o. that wanted his ride perfect (per service/sales man), it's far from perfect and could have been fixed relatively easily. Oh well it's a 2003 used trike.

Eventually I'll rig something so I can lift and remove the tires.

My bike is probably safe to ride, but I am going to order the drive shaft if I still hear the clunking and ride locally till replaced. (only 100 mile aaa tow travel coverage).

 

[cjmitch]

Well I had some mixed results and it's time for some sleep again.

My Harbor Freight motorcycle jack does not fit under the bars for the aqua shield. Even if I take all of the that stuff off, I don't see anywhere to SAFELY jack up the middle of the bike with the jack.

Get this jack... it WILL fit under the aquashields of a spyder 2+2
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-1500-lb-motorcycle-atv-jack/p-00950191000P

Using my 1.5 ton HF floor jack, I did not feel very safe jacking it up. Additionally I only have 2 jack stands. I tried jacking up under the rear diff and under the tow receiver. Both spots allow the trike to severly lean towards one side.

This jack comes with additional "legs, so that you can make one side of the jack higher than the other, thus it will compensate for the "lean" if you jack under the pumpkin
Secondly even with the lean I have never had my bike fall of this jack even without the arms

I was barely able to reverse roll the trike up onto my plastic ramps (I forget which brand). [No one was awake or able to help push].

I have done it by myself but you have to raise UP on the grab bars, and push WHILE you hold the button... it can be done
The better way is once you get the rear end up on the ramps, then use the yellow jack under the OEM aluminum frame of the bike and raise it there. Once you do... (I have 2 sets of ramps) put the front wheel on a ramp. thus the bike is supported by all 3 wheels

Additionally...
if the bike is up in the air supported by all 3 wheels, you can easily jack up on side of the trike (one rear tire) just enough to get it off the ramp, and the bike will still be supported by the other 2 wheels, and you can remove one side tire or the other.

So problem/project 1 is on hold or unnecessary unless I really want to change the seal and rear end oil for the heck of it. (Oil didn't look that dirty).

My installer told me if its not leaking to not worry about it. after inspecting the oil, I tended to agree

Problem/project 2 may needed it's own post and/or a mechanic/MotorTrike dealer. That's checking and/or changing the drive shaft or the u-joints. Since I can barely get to the them and have no way at the moment to lift the rear end safely with the wheels off.

Before I start another post, does anyone have tips on checking the u-joints and/or removing the drive axle? Can it be done with the rear end still in place/assembled?

If you use my method, you can EASILY slide underneath to grease the back u joint, or you will have enough clearance to remove it altogether. (Be sure to hace a 12 point socket, i think its 1/2 inch or 10 or 12mm, Im not sure offhand

YES, you can remove the driveshaft with the rear end still in place...

 

[cjmitch]

Looking at my drive shaft, I'm guessing is a Gen1 motor trike shaft using gl1500 oem front end. Solid black front and no visible grease fittings.

Spend the 150.00 bucks and get the gen 3 drive shaft.... You wont regret it..!!!

Getting that out after buying a female torx? Socket set should be easy-ish. However Motor trike parts were already gone by 11am on Friday. WTF?!

that is NOT a female torx, it is a 12 point socket. They are in all sizes, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/8
Sears craftsman has them in stock (well mostly).

However I'm not sure if the new style drive shaft can be installed without loosening/removing the rear end. I don't see and springs to compress the shaft during install. Internal maybe?

There SHOULD be a spring on the drive shaft
PLEASE take a picture and post it here...
If there is no spring DO NOT RIDE that trike.
If I'm not mistaken that drive shaft can come out the back of the engine without that spring...
DO NOT RIDE IT!!!

Eventually I'll rig something so I can lift and remove the tires.

See post above Sears craftsman yellow motorcycle lift

My bike is probably safe to ride, but I am going to order the drive shaft if I still hear the clunking and ride locally till replaced. (only 100 mile aaa tow travel coverage).

Not if you dont have a spring on your drive shaft its not.

 

[Gold Rush]

I have put together a guide (sort of) for getting Motor Trike trikes up where you can get underneath and safely do some maintenance. If you'd like it, shoot me a PM with email address(too long and picture heavy for posting). I have worked on countless Motor Trikes over the years and until recently used ramps, jacks, stands, and blocks to do it all.. Very little investment and plenty useful. :xszpv::xszpv:

I'm sure some of my techniques will also work on other brands but I usually only pass on what I know works. epper::cxtv:epper: I do know most of them work on my 2015 Roadsmith HTS1800....

 

[Metal_Bob]

Thanks for additional tips especially using 3rd ramp for front tire. I have a second metal set.

I'll consider the sears jack. Only 1 left in stock locally.

Yes there is a spring in my shaft. Is just noisy/clunky and a little rusty.

I'll definitely need 3 ramps trike in air to get leverage to loosen shaft 12pt bolts and heim nuts/jam nuts,

If I can get a shaft soon and level the trike, I might be happy about my purchase again.

 

[Metal_Bob]

P.s. trike is parked until drive shaft is replaced.