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I don't yet have a reverse trike but that is direction I'm leaning. No pun intended with the leaning part.
But questions for you. Is that all trunk space up front? And does a heavy load change how it handles if it is trunk space?:Shrug:
My personal choice if they have it completed though is a leaning reverse trike by Tilting Motor Works. But I don't really care for their looks right now. It's a function over looks thing for me though.
I did take a GWRRA 3-wheel course with it and can tell you it handles better and is more stable than a conventional trike.
Could you explain the stability comparison?
In what way did you find this trike more stable than a conventional trike?
Thanks..
Rider Magazine, January 2017 issue, has a brief ride-test report by Eric Trow. Not a very in-depth article but he did mention that steering was not particularly light..especially at very low speeds. I wish he had done a more comparative test (reverse vs. conventional trike) that would have included particulars like mileage. I like the fact that the saddlebags were kept but wonder about that snub flat nose ground clearance. As you get more miles on the trike possibly you could update us from time to time as to your findings...inquiring minds want to know! Enjoy it !!
Are there any other reverse trike owners here?
I ride a Motor Trike Prowler RT which I had converted in late September.
I'm impressed with how well it handles and the comfort of the ride.
very nice write up on your learning curve. a lot of what you wrote applies the same as the Spyder. reverse trikes offer much more of a stable & comfortable ride. the one thing I discovered was using less grip actually allows for a smoother ride. sounds crazy but it does work. a whole lot less twitching. i can now easily leave just about any other trike in the twisties.
kind of curious on your foot brake, does your floor board give way if you really stand on the brake? I couldn't tell by the pic that you posted.
I’ve ridden on two wheels for many many years but had to learn some new things when switching over to a trike.
My problem was there is no real good advice in any one spot for the new trike rider.
I read everything I could online and watched several YouTube videos, attended a GWRRA three wheel course, spoke to as many other trike owners as I could and learned by trial and error.
The two biggest things that I found which I needed to learn and master were steering and handling centrifugal force.
Steering was more of a hands on and do it skill and easy to become accustomed to. It didn’t take more than a few hundred miles to be comfortable at Turnpike speeds.
Curves require some technique, actually techniques, that once mastered not only manage the centrifugal force but allow for better cornering than when on two wheels.
When I say centrifugal force I’m referring to the feeling that you are being pulled off the trike when cornering or taking a curve. The faster you go, the stronger this feels.
I’m like to share what I have found that works for me.
Let me start with your hands. You have them on the handlebars and they sure do help you hang on. Locking the outside elbow when you turn makes a nice difference. For example, when turning left, lock the right elbow. You are pulling with your left hand and pushing with your right. Be careful on left turns that as you lock your arm you do not also twist the throttle and increase your speed. You may have to change your grip a bit lower on the throttle to prevent this from happening.
Slowing before entering the turn then entering high, going low and coming out high is the same as when on 2 wheels, as is the smooth application of throttle as you come out of the turn and a steady speed through the turn. You still need to lean. Since the trike won’t lean then you have to. Lean into the turn and also lean slightly backward. Do not lean forward. Leaning slightly backward helps keep the elbow locked and pushes you into the back of your seat which helps hold you in place.
Push down on the foot peg with your outside foot. When turning left push down with your right foot. You’ll also want to bring your inside knee in against the fuel tank. Doing these help hold you on the bike and give you a more secure feeling.
Two things you may wish to change on your bike if you don’t already have them are a backrest and floorboards.
Floorboards allow you to keep your feet flat and give you better balance and pushing area with your feet than just pegs. These make a nice difference. I switched over about 1,000 miles ago and noticed the difference immediately. Note – depending on the floorboards you choose you may also need to go to a heel/toe shifter if you can’t get your toes under the shifter peg. I prefer the heel/toe shifter but know others do not like it.
A backrest makes a huge difference. As you lean slightly backward, lock your elbow and push with your outside foot you will be pushed more firmly into the backrest. This will help hold you in place more securely. The curve in your backrest will support the side of your body and absorbs a lot of the pull on you. My backrest is detachable and I did some testing with it on and off. As a result it is on full time now as it made the biggest difference in feeling secure when turning.
I’ve found that these combination of techniques quickly become automatic and I don’t even think about doing them now. When I ride on roads that I frequent, like curved highway on ramps, I find that I can negotiate them, while feeling comfortable, at a higher speed then when I was on 2 wheels.
This has been my experience. I hope what I’ve shared may be of some use for you.
I’d sure be interested in anything anyone else has found that works for them.
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