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Thread: trunk lock

  1. #1
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    Default trunk lock

    does anyone know of someone who offers a trunk lock to replace that plastic pos?

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    Quote Originally Posted by lightnin View Post
    does anyone know of someone who offers a trunk lock to replace that plastic pos?
    Do a search ; Trunk Lock.... 20 Replies 7.7 hundred+ views !
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightnin View Post
    does anyone know of someone who offers a trunk lock to replace that plastic pos?
    lightnin, first off, I agree the OEM Trunk Lock is a POS!! However, in order to stay out of trouble with this lock, make sure it is lubricated (not excessive) and then DO NOT SLAM the trunk closed. If you just close and then press on the top of the lid at the lock until you hear a CLICK. You will not have any more difficulties. Most folks SLAM THE LID thinking that will lock it tight, but that will only work until you break the plastic retainer!!! Don't ask me how I know!!

    Roger
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    Quote Originally Posted by geezerglide11441 View Post
    lightnin, first off, I agree the OEM Trunk Lock is a POS!! However, in order to stay out of trouble with this lock, make sure it is lubricated (not excessive) and then DO NOT SLAM the trunk closed. If you just close and then press on the top of the lid at the lock until you hear a CLICK. You will not have any more difficulties. Most folks SLAM THE LID thinking that will lock it tight, but that will only work until you break the plastic retainer!!! Don't ask me how I know!!

    Roger
    .....Ask me how I know also...what Roger said
    Barbara
    2020 HD Tri-Glide
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    Quote Originally Posted by geezerglide11441 View Post
    lightnin, first off, I agree the OEM Trunk Lock is a POS!! However, in order to stay out of trouble with this lock, make sure it is lubricated (not excessive) and then DO NOT SLAM the trunk closed. If you just close and then press on the top of the lid at the lock until you hear a CLICK. You will not have any more difficulties. Most folks SLAM THE LID thinking that will lock it tight, but that will only work until you break the plastic retainer!!! Don't ask me how I know!!

    Roger
    This is also how I close the trunk lid.

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    Not only are the locks crap, but the HD technicians seem to have no clue how to install replacements correctly. Going in this weekend for 3rd time in less than year. This time, doesn't seem to have broken, just clip fell off. Cylinder plastic in fine shape. Extended warranty, do your stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezerglide11441 View Post
    lightnin, first off, I agree the OEM Trunk Lock is a POS!! However, in order to stay out of trouble with this lock, make sure it is lubricated (not excessive) and then DO NOT SLAM the trunk closed. If you just close and then press on the top of the lid at the lock until you hear a CLICK. You will not have any more difficulties. Most folks SLAM THE LID thinking that will lock it tight, but that will only work until you break the plastic retainer!!! Don't ask me how I know!!
    Roger
    I agree with the above except it being a POS. Mine works great - never had a problem. Maybe because I never slam it.
    I have had 2 TG's - a 2012 and a 2014 - no problems with either one.

    I explained on an earlier post about how to close the door. It's like closing an old (1968) VW Bug door. Since the Bug was 99.9% airtight, you had to close the door slowly to let out the inside air and then give the door a last minute push = door closed the first time every time = no slamming.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightnin View Post
    does anyone know of someone who offers a trunk lock to replace that plastic pos?
    Very solid and can be ordered in chrome or color matched to your ride... I'm sorry - the winter weather made me do this...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	lock hasp.jpg 
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ID:	42030
    Good luck with finding a "serious" solution to your trunk lock issue.

    Cheers
    Doug

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    Hey BOZO, if the metal horse shoe clip just fell out you can now just pull your lock/key unit out so it doesn't get lost while waiting repair. And don't let them sell you on you needing a new assembly and it takes 30 days to have it keyed alike. B S you can change the key tumbler out in less than 5 min.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lightnin View Post
    Hey BOZO, if the metal horse shoe clip just fell out you can now just pull your lock/key unit out so it doesn't get lost while waiting repair. And don't let them sell you on you needing a new assembly and it takes 30 days to have it keyed alike. B S you can change the key tumbler out in less than 5 min.
    Gotten lucky every time and was able to take lock out before it bounced into oblivion. Didn't actually break this time. Clip looks like it just fell out. I'll make them do the bending to retrieve and fix at HD. Was supposed to go yesterday, but a foot of snow made me not trust the drivers on the road.

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    Default Working on a fairly easy PERMANENT solution ..

    I have a 2010 Tri Glide that I bought to replace a 2002 Sportster with a Lehman Bandit conversion on it that was totaled.

    I read this thread and replaced the damaged plastic sheath and clip. A BIG mirror on the floor of the trunk helps in placing that little worthless steel clip, BTW. Afterwards, I NEVER slammed it shut again. Since I used to have an old beetle, I knew what was referenced regarding the airtightness of them and the trunk. Hell the damn thing would even float, they were so airtight!

    So, I pushed on the center until I heard the click, tugged on the handle to double check and then locked it. Within 2 miles, people were flagging me down to tell me the trunk lid was open. So I unlocked it and tried again. This time I not only pushed on the center, but both outside corners where the latches are actually located. Same procedure, push center and both corners, tug and lock. This time I made it about 5 miles before people started honking and waving!

    Somewhere in this forum I remember reading about some adjustments that could be made to the latch 'pins' that actually engage the latches. So off to the local Harley shop to eventually piss away $150! They reiterated the 'don't slam it shut' advice, which I have heeded! Same procedure, push middle, push both corners, tug and lock! It's only about 8 miles to my local shop and the trunk popped open TWICE on the way home !!!! Miraculously they seem to have actually made it WORSE !!! I still have not slammed it shut, THOUGH I was most assuredly tested in that regard!

    So I began looking at the locking mechanism itself and I think I have thought up a way to make a PERMANENT fix for this issue. I searched and searched the internet and I have ordered a few rather pricey parts and will begin testing the solution as soon as they arrive!

    It's old school, but if it aint broke don't fix it and it worked for rumble seats for decades!

    I'll keep the forum posted on the results!
    USAF PJ, '64-'72, 3 Tour Vietnam Vet.
    Old Trike - 2002 Sportster with Lehman Bandit conversion
    New Trike - 2010 Tri-Glide Ultra Classic

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    Boy!, I don't know what you guys are doing wrong.

    I'm now on my 3rd TG and I still have not had one single problem with my locks.

    Maybe it's the lucky rabbits foot I carry- - - - - just kidding.

    I guess anything mechanical can have problems.

    I wonder how many TG's have been sold and what the percentage is of those that have a problem. 4 or 5 out of a thousand, 5 thousand??

    If it is as such a wide spread problem, where are all the 3rd party companies? Surely someone is building a better mouse trap - somewhere.
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    ... I had an 2011 Tri-Glide and the trunk popped open a few times....I also had a 2017 Tri-Glide the and trunk never popped opened,....

    [Un] Luck of the draw............
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    Quote Originally Posted by GARYD View Post

    I wonder how many TG's have been sold and what the percentage is of those that have a problem. 4 or 5 out of a thousand, 5 thousand??

    If it is as such a wide spread problem, where are all the 3rd party companies? Surely someone is building a better mouse trap - somewhere.
    The problem CAN be solved by, I think, replacing the standard lock with a locking T-handle. The problem is finding a small enough double cam for the end of the lock. The internal workings are just a couple cables leading to the latches on the upper corners. I think I found one small enough, but it's VERY pricey for a single unit to test it out.

    Every Tri Glide owner in my H.O.G. chapter has had, or is having, issues with the trunk coming open. So that's 6 in Columbus, GA alone, spread out over model years 2010 through 2019.

    I'll let the forum know when I get it and how, or IF, it works!

    USAF PJ, '64-'72, 3 Tour Vietnam Vet.
    Old Trike - 2002 Sportster with Lehman Bandit conversion
    New Trike - 2010 Tri-Glide Ultra Classic

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    ​good luck on fixing that old style, I had the same problem but when Harley changed the design of the locking system I bought another trike; problem solved

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    As I said in another thread.

    Now that I think about it, I have never lubed the lock. Go figure.

    It's not like I open/close it hourly or even daily.

    The only thing I do to the rear door is apply silicone to the gasket twice a year.

    I'll have to check with all the TG owners in my chapter and see if they are having any problems. I haven't heard anyone say they have yet.
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    Wish you the best on getting a solution.

    You'd think after being paid $150 for a repair that didn't fix the problem, that they would actually keep at it until they resolved the problem, or get the MOCO Techs involved to fix the issue. There have been a lot of threads here and other places with lots of photos on fixing the Trunk Latch Mechanism.

    I've been fortunate, mine only opened once, most likely my fault. I use Motorkote's Spray Lubricant on mine.
    2016 Tri Glide Billet Silver w/Pinstripes ["Hi-Yo, Silver! Away!"]
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