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Thread: Tech Tech Tech, or...So you want to build a trike?

  1. #101
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    Vw wiring diagram.

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  3. #103
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    Ok.

    So what topic do you need tech info on?

    What to take on next?

  4. #104
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    Here is one that gets asked a lot.

    Wiring for an alternator upgrade.

    Yes that idiot light is critical.

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  5. #105
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    Here is a diagram showing what "full flowing" a vw means.

    As you can see all of the flow from pump goes to the filter and/or cooler. All the flow all the time, hence the name full flow.

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  6. #106
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    Some visual help to identify an engine.

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  7. #107
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    Ok so now you are ready to build a vw engine for your scooter.

    How far do you go with modifications?

    Depends on a lot of things....

    Money being a big one.

    Skill with engine mods.

    What you want it to do.

    What you need it to do.

    The very first thing to do is to upgrade to a later 1600 dual port engine.

    Most all the aftermarket parts are based on modifying this engine.

    Any of the other vw engines are very limited on how much you can do, but are a fine stock engine.

    Just the upgrade to the late 1600 may be plenty for your needs.

  8. #108
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    Some terminology.....

    When asked most people will say

    "I want it to go faster

    Faster is more mph.

    Quicker is acceleration.

    Faster is a function of gearing or increasing maximum rpm put into the trans.

    So a stock (in good order) late 1600 will pull red line in high gear with a light trike. A very worn down engine has a hard time pulling high gear at all.

    Putting a big bore kit on a stock crank (like a 1915cc 69 stock crank and 94 bore) will do nothing to increase your red line. Your top speed will be the same. You will get to speed a heck of a lot quicker and have a big smile on your face. But is not faster it is quicker.

  9. #109
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    So a lot of the big modifications on the engine is to increase the maximum rpm of the engine.

    The stock vw crank is limited to under 5500 rpm maximum. Not because it is a bad unit at all. The metallurgy of the german metal is excellent. But it is in the balance of the spinning mass.

    This is where the hot rod counter weighted cranks come in. A better spinning balance and the rpm can go up higher without whipping itself apart.

  10. #110
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    So where did we stop at?

    What y'all wanna talk about now?

    Modified engine parts?

  11. #111
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    Default best place for oil pressure sensor ?

    Quote Originally Posted by DeathBySnuSnu View Post
    Of those you also want the dual relief.

    This is the latest oil improvement vw did to these.

    It seperates the oil cooler bypass and the oil pressure bypass.

    Attachment 48308

    A single relief can be made to work with more modifying.

    The single type is more of a three way valve and it makes getting oil pressure and oil cooler flow to balance. You can "full flow" the case and run the cooler there and use the relief for pressure only.
    good morning, did not see much about instruments, what should be used to keep an eye on everything.

    So, I have installed the fuel gauge, voltmeter, oil pressure, oil temperature, and cylinder head temp gauges.

    First I think the CHT gauge sucks, it has never worked... or should I say give a temp reading.

    Maybe go digital with this one is a better idea.

    Okay all are VDO gauges if that matters, oh yeah I put in a GPS speedo because I ran into issue getting the old VDO speedo cable, why do it now if the cable length might change, always do it later.

    MY question is, where is the best place to get the oil temperature from ???

    I pulled the plug from the oil pressure relief valve, lower front corner of head by #4 cylinder, and placed the sensor there, but I do not get a reading, not a good one, will check all wiring later today, make sure it is correct, and also make sure that sensor is truly the one for the gauge.

    Love this thread.

  12. #112
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    Head temperature and oil temperature do not go hand in hand. So separate gauges are handy there.

    Personally....I do not run any guages....not even a Speedo.

    Head temp location....ring under #3 spark plug is considered the best place.

    Oil temp location....in the oil flow headed to the bearings.

  13. #113
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    I don't fully agree with all...but is a lot of good info.


  14. #114
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    Oil paths.


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    Rex, just a huge "thank you" for all your time and effort to help others understand what they are doing, or attempting to do. The guidance on the does and don'ts from you knowledge (personal or learned, even linked ) just to valuable to lose.

    I have set up a reading list with and put all that I find that I need to keep and know. A great reference list to help me with this VW engine and the concept of the trike.

    It is just wonderful you are so awesome and willing to do this. Have a great day every day.

  16. #116
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    Well I am glad that someone is getting some use out of it.

    I am not trying to spell out a recipe or direct instructions. But instead share the technical information so it is understood and you know the the how and why. Apply it as you will. Just look at mine....it is way out there.

    Also....I am not actually an admin or moderator. That was a temporary thing so I could edit my dead links. If you have questions please ask them in open forum.

  17. #117
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    Default Fuel pump

    About vw fuel pumps.

    The original vw pumps were an excellent piece. Very capable and dependable. You can even run dual carbs with a correctly functioning stock pump.

    But there is the rub....correctly functioning.....the vast majority of today's replacement pumps are far from correct. The durometer of the diaphragm and all the spring rates must be right and they no longer are with today's material......and mostly Chinese. So most are overly high pressure. You can look over in the throat of a running carb and see it is steadily dripping. It will run and seem somewhat ok, but low gas mileage all the way up to gas smelling oil.

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    So here comes electric pumps and regulators.

    You could put a regulator on a stock type pump just like you can with an electric. Most with an electric pump and a regulator combo though.

    Most electric pumps are made for v8's and/or Holley type carbs with big floats. In the 7 to 9 psi range. So get something else more aligned to our 4 cyl engines. Carter makes some good smaller stuff. Shoot for 2 psi with some adjustable up and down from there.

  19. #119
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    Making the circuit.

    This one is my personal favorite and is what I use to this day.

    A 2 port over pressure regulator.

    Name:  one.jpg
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    The valve could be a motorcycle tank and its petcock......a manual hand valve.....or an electric valve.

    Such as.

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    Fuel filter non specific on the brand but prefer NOT plastic.

    A small electric pump.

    Adjustable regulator. And that round dial top unit empi sells is not a true regulator.....it is more of a restrictor. It can somewhat work configured like this.

  20. #120
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    Next in line.

    Remember this is the world according to Rex......not the end all be all of human existence. This is just some data points for you to consider.

    Name:  two.jpg
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    A 3 port regulator.

    In.....out.....and bypass line.

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