88 blazer trike

[Fowler]

If i am understanding correctly ,it looks like you should tack the neck tube 3.5in. (halfway down) from the top on left side, fairly heavy tack. then, a very light tack on right side. grind off all other tacks but these 2, then pivot neck on the heavy tack using heat if needed on this tack.....let right tack break, it will be a reference if neck breaks off. according to your figures top of neck should pivot to right ,062 measured 6 in, above the left tack. the bottom of the neck should have swung left the same amount . hope this makes sense???

So its Friday night beer and boxing.

to many beers and not enough boxing

I have more beer and another boxer coming

Cant understand what you are saying (See line 2)

will read again later

Have to leave Sunday night for NJ for business

Not a lot of time this weekend

Thanks for your input. I value it along with others

 

[LarryA]

correction needed

Bob...my intention was to see the neck tube rotated with its center remaining in the same place. it should be rotated in a counterclockwise direction to even up the measurements you have listed. I was rotating in the wrong direction in my last post!! However I am still somewhat unsure of this type of measuring, (could be wrong)....I meant to use the angle iron as a (reverse v-block) by holding the v of the angle iron against the tube....then rotating the iron and marking the arc of the iron near the floor.....the highest point of the arc should be the center of the neck tube. now I have not tried this.....the angle iron or channel would have to be straight and true, maybe an aluminum extrusion of angle or channel would be more accurate. just suggesting an alternate method to double check that alignment.

 

[rrunner]

I have used that neck from eBay on two of my trikes, a vw, and the v8. Works real good. They can even press in the races if you ask them.

 

[Fowler]

Bob...my intention was to see the neck tube rotated with its center remaining in the same place. it should be rotated in a counterclockwise direction to even up the measurements you have listed. I was rotating in the wrong direction in my last post!! However I am still somewhat unsure of this type of measuring, (could be wrong)....I meant to use the angle iron as a (reverse v-block) by holding the v of the angle iron against the tube....then rotating the iron and marking the arc of the iron near the floor.....the highest point of the arc should be the center of the neck tube. now I have not tried this.....the angle iron or channel would have to be straight and true, maybe an aluminum extrusion of angle or channel would be more accurate. just suggesting an alternate method to double check that alignment.

I understand.

I will be out of town so this will have to wait until next weekend.

 

[Fowler]

I have not had time to work on it since my last post.

My new job pays well but takes up a lot of my time.

And this weekend I have to work on my other Trike and my Sons truck

Then there's the honey due list

 

[Fowler]

I purchased a 1" grade 8 bolt for the stem.

Have not had any time to do any work though.

I hoping next weekend I will

 

[vwbug72501]

Fowler......Fowler.....Fowler.......

What's been happening?

 

[LarryA]

same here!

 

[Fowler]

Im Back

Sorry for being away for so long

Life happens!!

At first I was out of work so had to conserve on money then i got a good paying job again and have not had the time.

Now I can see the light at the end of the log tunnel. By the end of the month I should be down to working normal 5 days a week and 8 hours a day (with some exceptions and a 45 minute drive each way to work and back)

I'm off today but have to work this Saturday

I was looking at the trike again

I think I figured out how to get the neck angle correct. By my measurements the bottom is to the right by 1/8 inch

I will send pics.

I also think I figured out how to shorten the wheel base by about 12 inches but I need to concentrate on the front end first. The front end will not change no matter if I shorten the trike of not

I am thinking of ordering a grade 8 bolt for the front axle. I can get something like one of these.

I know 14 inches seems kind of long but the threads are 2 or 2 1/2 inches long them self. I will have to cut the threads back some

https://www.fastenal.com/products?r...~ ~|sattr04:^3/4"-10$|~ ~|sattr04:^3/4"-16$|~

Next weekend I should have completely off. So I plan to straighten the neck and if I have the axle bolt in I will start the fabrication of the front end. I will share my ideas for that latter

Well I'm glad to be back

I will try to post often

 

[vwbug72501]

 

[Fowler]

I chased that stupid bubble back and forth but in the end it is center

Before





After

 

[Fowler]

 

[LarryA]

welcome back Bob.....good to see your back at it!!:clapping:

 

[Fowler]

So what do you think about a 3/4 grade 8 bolt for the front Axle?

Now the front shocks.

I was thinking something like one of these

https://www.denniskirk.com/emgo/bla...0NpCh1YcgNdEAQYAiABEgKUiPD_BwE&ad=45713337637

or

https://www.jbugs.com/product/9570....MI-qPpwfCc3AIVB9bACh2Gjg6zEAQYBCABEgLk6_D_BwE

 

[vwbug72501]

Don't know about spring rates on these. Have you measured the weight on the front end? I would think that you would need weight and expected suspension travel specs before selecting units. Maybe research how to calculate spring rate?

 

[Fowler]

OK I forgot about spring rate

I was told by someone a while back that the the VW coil shocks have a 100lb spring rate

I will be mounting them on a 35 degree angle so that would be 114lbs per inch

I will have 2 of them so that would be 228lbs first inch, 456 inch for the 2nd inch and so on

I have the V6 engine up front so the front will be heavy. I need to weigh the front.

So I need to steal the Ol'Ladys scale

The last time I did that I broke it

 

[LarryA]

there is another factor to consider. the shock placement on the "rocker/ bail with respect to the distance from the axle centerline to the pivot point of the fork tubes. This distance will be tied to shock travel also. I would recommend the heaviest rear shocks....would also consider air, or a hydraulic cyl with a remote accumulator? then mock up temporary rockers, and experiment with engine in place. I made a fixture of 2x4's to hold the wheel and tire upright, then could measure and mark axle c/l and for trail. I used 3/8x 2in flat bar to make my temporary links.

 

[vwbug72501]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15419-DIY-cross-weight-weigh-and-balance-the-car Post#7.

Don't break the wife's scale! "Happy wife, happy life!"

 

[LarryA]

this a.m. looking at speedway race catalog.....tremendous selection of chrome coil-over springs $46.00 ea. rates from 80-600# plus hardware to support them. all kinds of afco shocks etc.

I'm thinking your design would not have great front end weight changes from fuel and passenger loads, maybe no need for air assist.

 

[Fowler]

yesterday I placed a bid on a set of Qa1 coil over shocks.

they have a 175lb spring rate

But the auction is not up until Friday.

Tomorrow I will order my grade 8 3/4 bolt

I have 3/4" and 1" drill bits but those are big holes to drill through thick steel.

I will need to drill 2, 1" holes through 1/2 plate and a number of 3/4" holes through through 2" thick wall square tubing

I have a drill press but not the greatest on

any suggestions