88 blazer trike

[Jack Klarich]

I just watched a video on how to use the tool. I did not now that end needed adjustment. Know I do. Will order the tool soon.

What about the other side of the booster. How far does it depress?

I dunno, that is a good question

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[Fowler]

I ordered the tool you suggested.

I will keep researching this.

I have to go to the torture house now. (physical therapy)

Thank you for your advise

 

[LarryA]

booster

The only consideration I can think of, is to make your pedal linkage travel somewhat longer than m/c travel so as to accommodate the longer travel of the booster. You can feel the lost motion that is used to contact the floating valve in the booster.

 

[Fowler]

Once I get that new tool in I plan to take the MC and booster off the trike to adjust it. While it is off I will connect the booster to my car to see how much it will depress.

I have most of the linkage fabricated now. I just need to figure out the rod length and pivot point.

I will take some pic soon and post them.

The next step i guess will be to run the brake lines, and check valve and ensure I have the right size wheel cylinders

I will cap off the ports for the front brake for now. Will need to figure that out later.

With my VW trike, after I installed the brake system I went to the top of the hill here and rolled down. That was a fun first ride.

 

[Fowler]

I think I have it now. Its just held together with vice-grips and I don't have the spacers or all the grade 8 bolts yet

I will tack weld it and see before I weld fully

I get about 1 1/2" depression on the booster

I took the MC off and it depresses about 1 1/2"

 

[Fowler]

I pulled the MC off the booster and took the measurement. with the new tool.

The 2 rods were touching. I screwed the booster rod in some. I have a gap but I don't have a way to measure it. I don't have anything that is .02

I tried adding some feeler gauges together to get the right thickness but them I cant get t in past the tool to measure it

I had to bend a wrench in order to get to the lock nut

At this point I have eyeballed it.

 

[Fowler]

I had to shift gears.

My wife has been having me make Christmas presents for people.

Almost done with them. Then will get back to the trike.

 

[Fowler]

I got the brackets welded and picked up all the grade 8 bolts. Then the Ol'Lady put me on another mission.

Should have it all bolted together tomorrow.

I get a good pedal movement and the booster rod comes out plenty far enough.

I made the linkage adjustable in a number of ways just in case

Now I need to tear off the back wheels to check the brake pads and wheel cylinder size.

Then will order a brake line kit and plum the brakes

More Pics coming soon

 

[Fowler]

Linkage off and on the floor. I may remake the right bracket bigger for I can use bronze bushings



Brake pedal not depressed and depressed

 

[Fowler]

linkage at booster not depressed and depressed. I need to move the rod in the first pic to the right side of the linkage. I did not notice that until I looked at the PIC



Added a support for my seat bracket. Not finished yet. I can remove the master cyl still with this brace. The problem is now I have to redo the brace on the other side sine its not at the same angle.

 

[Jack Klarich]

linkage at booster not depressed and depressed. I need to move the rod in the first pic to the right side of the linkage. I did not notice that until I looked at the PIC

View attachment 115772 View attachment 115773

Added a support for my seat bracket. Not finished yet. I can remove the master cyl still with this brace. The problem is now I have to redo the brace on the other side sine its not at the same angle.

View attachment 115774

Mocking up all the geometry is time consuming but your finished project will be worth it

 

[Fowler]

fixed the brake rod placement and replaced the brace on the left side.

Im going to build the frame above the master cyl and booster to look something like the left side that has the battery box

I need to do some more research on the check valves I will need

Also

I need to run 2 lines.

1 line to the back brakes

1 line to the front.

the master cylinder has 4 ports (2 on each side )

Can I use 2 on 1 side and plug the 2 on the other side

or do I have to use 1 from each side

 

[Jack Klarich]

fixed the brake rod placement and replaced the brace on the left side.

Im going to build the frame above the master cyl and booster to look something like the left side that has the battery box

I need to do some more research on the check valves I will need

Also

I need to run 2 lines.

1 line to the back brakes

1 line to the front.

the master cylinder has 4 ports (2 on each side )

Can I use 2 on 1 side and plug the 2 on the other side

or do I have to use 1 from each side

If you are not using a combo valve you should get by with blocking 2 ports

 

[Fowler]

I'm not sure what valves I will use yet. I still have a lot more research to do.

I made the box over the master cyl yesterday. Still plenty of room to remove the master cyl and booster. Although I don't have the valves and lines to deal with yet.

 

[Jack Klarich]

I'm not sure what valves I will use yet. I still have a lot more research to do.

I made the box over the master cyl yesterday. Still plenty of room to remove the master cyl and booster. Although I don't have the valves and lines to deal with yet.

View attachment 115822

If you can find Bundy Flex lines you will like them, easy to work with and do not kink easily

 

[Fowler]

I used something similar on my other Trike.

 

[Marc H]

fixed the brake rod placement and replaced the brace on the left side.

Im going to build the frame above the master cyl and booster to look something like the left side that has the battery box

I need to do some more research on the check valves I will need

Also

I need to run 2 lines.

1 line to the back brakes

1 line to the front.

the master cylinder has 4 ports (2 on each side )

Can I use 2 on 1 side and plug the 2 on the other side

or do I have to use 1 from each side

Use the ports on whichever side you need.Block the other 2.That master is made that way so it will fit multiple applications.

 

[Fowler]

It is great to have the additional options

I appreciate any info you all want to pass on.

I'm learning and I am researching as I have time

 

[Fowler]

There is some good brake info on this page (a video also)

https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/different-types-brake-valves

 

[LarryA]

Take this with a grain of salt...I am thinking the primary chamber on the m/c, (the one closest to the pushrod) should be for the rear brakes on your trike. (on a car this may be reversed? Then the front brake be adjusted with the proportioning valve. to balance the braking with regard to the final weight distribution.

I have not tried this myself...one trike of mine has a mechanical brake up front, the other has a separate m/c for both front and rear.

So food for thought only...