88 blazer trike

[Fowler]

fowler.. 2 factors that I see....#1 is pinion snout twisting up under acceleration.#2 is just hitting a bump ie raising the whole rear end straight up with no twist... leafs with a snubber for the snout will work just fine.....the 4 link takes care of the wrap up by virtue of it's design also. either way, the mounting should be adjustable to fine tune. anyhow, this thinking and figuring was the favorite part of my build....I did it leaning back in my chair with my feet up!! larry

Yep I like researching all the different aspects of it and learning what I can.
I have been in IT working with computers for 25 years now and I hate them but I have to admit they make researching a lot easier

Still most likely go with Coil Overs and a 4 link. I just like the looks of the leafs.
Was looking at it last night making sure I have it ready to pull the engine this Saturday
I think I will go ahead and connect the new front frame into the old rear frame for now but will eventually build the rear frame also. (when I switch to coil overs)

I took the pinion angle on the rear last night. It is 7 degrees (nose up) I wanted to have the Trany level, If I do that I have to move the nose down at least 8 degrees. But I do not want to do that until I get most of the weight on the vehicle

 

[LarryA]

reply to thread

I learned to look ahead (the hard way) when making weld tacks. always somewhere you could cut it out with a 4in. cutoff wheel then get in with a bar chisel or hammer to break the opposite tack. it didn't stop the mistakes, but it made it easier to start over! sounds like your plan is coming together, will enjoy keeping up with this build. larry

 

[rrunner]

Like the build so far. May I suggest the possibility of air ride with the four link.

 

[Fowler]

Like the build so far. May I suggest the possibility of air ride with the four link.

I have looked at Air ride systems on a number of different vehicles, Mainly Hot Rods, T-buckets, trucks and such

Great system BUT from what I have read the Air Ride setup cost a lot more, more difficult to setup, and some say not as dependable as the coil over systems

Now please understand I am just going by what I have been reading. I have no experience with this myself. I read everything I can, hear all the different points of views and then come up with what I will do

In this case the fact that Coil Overs are is cheaper and easier for my first time at this, took priority.

I like the looks of the leaf springs the most but I do not think I will get the ride i want from them,
I have read about different modifications to them and even leaf springs from other vehicles. But I always seem to go back to Coil Overs

As I read and learn more I may change my mind on this and other things. Just have to see how it flows

Pulling the engine off the frame tomorrow
Choping the rear off the frame also

Got to do some minor work on the Heathen Trike also http://www.3fowlers.com/

 

[Fowler]

got the engine and trany off the frame and sitting on the cradle
I want the engine low
I have 6 inches of clearance from the bottom of the oil pan to the ground.
I can get another inch by modifying the oil pickup tube and oil pan
I am also planning to have a skid plate

For now I have it sitting level. I will adjust that if needed

 

[Fowler]

Just tack welded in right now
need to narrow the front some
Took a measurement from center of each back wheel to the front of my front frame and got the same length, so I think I have it straight
I plan to weld in more bracing once I get it how I want it


As I was cleaning the frame I noticed the 2 back frame rails are different.
Need to figure out what I will do with that
1 goes straight then down the other goes down then straight


I am going to try and keep the leaf springs so I cut 2 leafs off each side . It feels a lot better now.
Need to reband them

 

[Fowler]

This weekend I am going to narrow the front end by angling the front frame rails in more
I have the frame leveled now both front to back and side to side
I need to ensure I bring both sides in toward the center the exact same amount and that everything is centered
The red lines is what I measured from before
I am thinking of taking a measurement from both the Red lines and the Blue lines this time to get a more accurate measurement this time

Anyone have any better (more accurate) way for me to do this without spending any additional money?

 

[LarryA]

reply to thread

I usually just use a chalk line pulled tight on the floor and drop plumb bobs to that centerline.....then the string on the plumb bob will transfer the line up from the floor to your frame.....then move the frame until it is centered on the centerline. do each end of the frame....sometimes when the center of the frame is found I file a small groove for the string for future measurements. hope this makes sense to you....larry

 

[LarryA]

I have also used the 3'leg, 4'leg and 5' hypotenuse to construct a line perpendicular to the center line for aligning the rear axle to the c/l. I lay out the 4' along the c/l...then measure out 3' to right or left..then use the 5' to swing the 3' leg until the 5'leg is on the end of the 4' mark... then the 3' leg will be at 90 deg to the c/l. do the same for the other side. hope this makes sense also.....larry

 

[stacebg]

This weekend I am going to narrow the front end by angling the front frame rails in more
I have the frame leveled now both front to back and side to side
I need to ensure I bring both sides in toward the center the exact same amount and that everything is centered
The red lines is what I measured from before
I am thinking of taking a measurement from both the Red lines and the Blue lines this time to get a more accurate measurement this time

Anyone have any better (more accurate) way for me to do this without spending any additional money?



View attachment 43189

i think what you have there is on the right track or at least a good track...
probably in your plan, but take off the wheels for a more accurate measure.. and i would measure crisscross with the blue lines...in other words right rear to left front and left rear to right front rather than using the center of the rear

 

[Fowler]

I dropped the front frame down 3 1/2 inches and I narrowed the front end
I first made sure my new frame was the exact same length on both sides
then I while I brought in the front I used measurements from fixed points on the left side and right side of the frame across to the other side to the front of the frame
I also used my original measuring points

all measurements came in withing 1/8 of a inch of each other

I have not completed the gussets yet, will do that tomorrow if I have time
The square tubing is 3/16 and the gussets I am making out of some 1/4 flat I have.
Need to make a cross member and then notch it for the trany

 

[peteg59]

Good progress BobThumbUpThumbUp
What is your estimated, or already established, overall length going to be?

 

[Fowler]

Good progress BobThumbUpThumbUp
What is your estimated, or already established, overall length going to be?

The wheel base will be around 8 1/2 feet.
The total length will be about 13 feet.
If everything goes as planned I will have a small truck bed in back

If I find I cant keep the leaf springs and have to go with coil overs the trike will loose a couple feet behind the tires

 

[Fowler]

The wheel base will be around 8 1/2 feet.
The total length will be about 13 feet.
If everything goes as planned I will have a small truck bed in back

If I find I cant keep the leaf springs and have to go with coil overs the trike will loose a couple feet behind the tires

I was way off.
I re measured it, it should be around 11 feet long total
not sure how I got 13 feet

 

[Fowler]

started the cross member

cut it out from further back on the frame. I have other plans for that spot

I have it in place now but still need to do all the gussets and dress-up.

Hopefully I will have time to do that tomorrow

 

[Fowler]

Picked up a working Turbo 400 transmission last night.

Im going to swap it out for the 700r4 I have now.

Had to drive 3 hours 1 way to get it and only got 2 hours sleep last night.

Just downed one of the energy shots to see if that will help me at work today

Doing the swap for several reasons

the 700r4 needed rebuilt

It is a 4wd version so I would have to buy a output shaft and tail housing to convert it to 2wd

The turbo 400 is all there and working

It has a bolt on yoke not a slip yoke (needed for the drive shaft I will be using)

The 400 is about 1 inch shorter so that does not make much of a difference

Now need to finish the cross member I am working on now and then work on mounts for the engine and Trany

Thinking about having it for the frame will lift over the engine/trany if they need to come off for any reason (this is how my first trike was)

 

[peteg59]

I'm not sure I would want to "lose" the overdrive from the 700R, but if it comes down to economics in the build, all is good...On the bright side, now you can build the snake~snot outta that 4.3 horsepower wise, knowing the trans won't be a weak link in your drivetrain:clapping:

 

[Fowler]

I'm not sure I would want to "lose" the overdrive from the 700R, but if it comes down to economics in the build, all is good...On the bright side, now you can build the snake~snot outta that 4.3 horsepower wise, knowing the trans won't be a weak link in your drivetrain:clapping:

yea I was thinking about that overdrive but I need something that has a bolt on yoke because I am using a double cardan joint on the drive shaft.

In order to get the 700r4 to work I would have had to stretch out the trike longer than I wanted.

The pinion angle just would not work out with a short drive shaft.

I could have tilted the engine and trany more but I mocked that up and did not like the look of it so slanted.

I have seen others that have done that and I just do not like that look

http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/37711-Double-Cardan-pinion-angle?highlight=pinion

Some people have put a SYE on the 700r4 but form what I have read this is not the greatest thing to do

and Yea from what I have read the turbo 400 is a beast. They say it can take a lot. Not that I will need that but its good to know

 

[LarryA]

reply to thread

Fowler... could you lower the tailshaft a few inches to help decrease drive shaft angle? some eng/trans angle won't hurt road clearance much because oil pan is so close to motormounts, also carb, if used would be closer to the right angle, just thinking out loud! larry

 

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Looking good so far Fowler, I envy your bravado to build your own, I'd be too worried about registering it after I finished it ... I assume you have looked into that.