88 blazer trike

[Fowler]

No they are separate but very short drive shaft (If i remember right 10 inchs). No just shorten one side of differential more than other side so it was off set with trans tail shaft. having less pinion up and down and more sideways . If that makes any sense lol..

I have been reading everything I can find on this.
I hope by the time I get to that point I know a lot more than I do now

 

[Fowler]

So I have been reading some on pinion angle.
I understand under load the rear end will change angle slightly
But if the Trany and the Diff are at the same height wont the 2 u joints make up for any angle change ?
And how does the length of the drive shaft affect this

or am I what off here?

 

[Sidecarbill]

I don't think its the height. If you put a level on the trans and its perfectly vertical then the rear pinion shaft has to be the same or very close I think they allow maybe 3degrees difference.you should be able to google it.

 

[diver]

I always ran 2 degs on pinon angle on my drag cars as with the more neg the pinon the better bite the tires have for launching . Set my trike up with 2 deg offset to left and 0 on trans tail shaft to pinion . I really suck at explaining. You have to make sure you do not bind the joints through suspension travel . I always set angle with suspension loaded and vehicle setting on drums but i have a hobby lift.lol .. Maybe someone with a better gift of explaining can come in and help you. I welded my axle tubes to swing arms so my adjustment is by shimming my trans up or down.. My trike has the 4.3 with the turbo350 and lock converter .. No drive line vibrations at all ... watch some Utube videos on pinon angle .. Im sure you will catch on and if not there are so many very knowledgeable members here that will help you .

 

[Fowler]

Thanks guys
I am finding all kinds of info on this.
Here is 1 http://www.hotrod.com/articles/91758/

I have a lot of time until I get to that point so I think I will have it down be the time I get there

 

[Fowler]

Pinion angle is important due to the forces at work in the rearend and rear suspension of a rearwheel drive vehicle. As power is applied to the rearend via the driveshaft, the pinion gear tries to climb the ring gear. This causes the rearend housing (along with the pinion gear) to rotate about the axles' centerline. The optimum relationship between the pinion gear and driveshaft is when they are perfectly aligned. In order to achieve this under power, you much have some angle built into the setup when the vehicle is at rest and not under any power.

http://www.quickperformance.com/Pinion-Angle-Measurement_ep_45.html

 

[Fowler]

all day I have been reading articles and watching videos on Pinion angle
I think I have a good understanding what it is, why it is needed and how to set it up.
When I go to do it I may have more questions but that will be some time from now

This is exactly why I like building things. I learn so much

 

[LarryA]

reply to thread

i'm thinking that you would want to consider the type of rear end mounting you will use... may be s-10 stock....4 link... coil...leaf parallel 4 link or radius rods.....then use suitable pinion angle for the type of suspension. it seems that you should have at least 1/2 degree on each joint at the cruise power angle to keep joint needles rotating.......hope this makes sense??

 

[Fowler]

i'm thinking that you would want to consider the type of rear end mounting you will use... may be s-10 stock....4 link... coil...leaf parallel 4 link or radius rods.....then use suitable pinion angle for the type of suspension. it seems that you should have at least 1/2 degree on each joint at the cruise power angle to keep joint needles rotating.......hope this makes sense??

Some of the articles I have been reading have talked about that.
Once i get the vehicle to that point I will decide

 

[Fowler]

Ok stupid question but here goes anyway.

This weekend I will be tearing apart the engine compartment of my blazer.
The engine runs real good now

Before I tear the extra crap out of the engine compartment and off the engine can you think of anything I need to do with the engine before I make it for it does not run for the next year or so? I will be taking off the power steering, Air conditioning and such so I will need to redesign the alternator bracket, serpentine belt. I was not going to do this part until I have the vehicle completely tore down and I am bringing it back up as a trike

I'm just kind of hesitate to take it to the point where the engine is not running. I know I have to do it at some point though

 

[peteg59]

"Before I tear the extra crap out of the engine compartment and off the engine can you think of anything I need to do with the engine before I make it for it does not run for the next year or so?"

Well since you asked, here's my $.02: You can remove all of the accessories ie: P/S pump, AC comp., fan, alt., and it should still start & yard drive, obviously on short runs only.
If/when you're ready to "cripple" it, fogging the engine is a good idea. I pull each plug & spray a few good seconds in each hole for desired effect. Afterward turning over the engine without plugs in it for a few seconds to get a good coating everywhere.
There are a few types available, but the AMSOIL type has worked really well for me the last 5 years or so:

 

[Fowler]

"Before I tear the extra crap out of the engine compartment and off the engine can you think of anything I need to do with the engine before I make it for it does not run for the next year or so?"

Well since you asked, here's my $.02: You can remove all of the accessories ie: P/S pump, AC comp., fan, alt., and it should still start & yard drive, obviously on short runs only.
If/when you're ready to "cripple" it, fogging the engine is a good idea. I pull each plug & spray a few good seconds in each hole for desired effect. Afterward turning over the engine without plugs in it for a few seconds to get a good coating everywhere.
There are a few types available, but the AMSOIL type has worked really well for me the last 5 years or so:

I admit I had to look up what you were suggesting

Great Idea!

Thanks


A highly-effective rust preventative designed to protect internal engine components during storage or long periods of inactivity. Ideal for outboard motors, lawn and garden equipment, motorcycles, snowmobiles, ATVs, motor homes and generators or any equipment with a two- or four-stroke engine.

 

[peteg59]

As a follow on to my earlier post, any light oil/ATF should work to coat the cylinder walls if you're putting it down for under a year.
Longer, & a true fogging oil is definitely the way to go.ThumbUp

Then again on the other hand you hear of folks starting up a motor that has sat 10 years or more, just adding gas, fresh batt. & it fires right up:Shrug:

 

[Fowler]

I changed the oil and filter the ran it for a bit
I picked up the fogger and some fuel stabilizer
Per the directions on the can I sprayed some down the TB and the in each spark plug hole.

I have read that some people "pickle" the engine. Basically fill the engine completely full with oil. I have not done this yet
What do you think about that?

Tore more of it apart today

Before

after

 

[peteg59]

Not sure I'd fill the eng completely full w/oil, unless you're storing it in a place that experiences constant high humidity, or somewhere that condensation is a major issue.
Normal oil fill in the block, & fogging all cylinders should be all you really need to do.

If you plan on using the stock fuel tank, filling w/fuel & stabilizer is suggested...

 

[Fowler]

any idea what these are?

 

[Fowler]

any idea what these are?

one of them looks to be a ESC = Electronic Spark Control.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gm-ecm-pcm-conversion/tbi-efi-conversion.html

 

[LarryA]

the one on the pass side ...maybe map sensor..should have vacuum hose and a few wires if it is a map. are you keeping it throttle body, or are you going with carb and dist??? on last winter I broke and ordered the factory manuals glad i did! if you keep fi you should invest in set. I agree with the fogging advice. larry

 

[Fowler]

the one on the pass side ...maybe map sensor..should have vacuum hose and a few wires if it is a map. are you keeping it throttle body, or are you going with carb and dist??? on last winter I broke and ordered the factory manuals glad i did! if you keep fi you should invest in set. I agree with the fogging advice. larry

I would like to keep the TBI but that is a long way off.

Good suggestions on the manuals. I will do that.

Almost have it ready to take the body off. Its been cold so I have been working slow. I'm still ahead of schedule though
I think before I narrow the rear end and frame I will wait until it gets a little warmer out. Its just to hard/tight to work with the doors closed and to cold to work with them open.

I may have a line on a 2wd Trany to replace the 4wd one I have now. I am hoping to trade the old one and a rifle for it. Got to wait to until I get the body off for I can see what exactly I have. I could just crawl under it but the concrete is cold
I think its a 700r4/4l60

 

[Fowler]

surpenteen belt

When I put the engine back together I will only need Crank, Water pump and Altenator
I can make brackets to mount the alternator on either side
But I do not come up with a good belt path.


This is not my engine but its setup the same