generally the ratio of the pedal movement to the mc movement is around 7or8 to 1 if i remember correctly that said i think u need longer than a 3 in pedalOriginally Posted by Fowler
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generally the ratio of the pedal movement to the mc movement is around 7or8 to 1 if i remember correctly that said i think u need longer than a 3 in pedal
I don't know much about break design. I have worked on them, bled them and so on.
I would think the rod travel into the booster would only be a couple inches. I never measured it though.
I cant find a lot on it online but I did find 1 place that said 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches for the 7" brake booster/master cylinder setup they were selling.
I will be doing more research
Thank you
Bob
here is the info I was talking about
Still researching though
my exhaust design and the Brake pedal will have to be designed to work together
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2014/...der-bore-size/
if your car needs some help in the stopping power department, or if there’s a need to reduce the pedal effort, you have a few options: A) decrease the master cylinder bore size; B) increase the pedal ratio; or C) increase the wheel cylinder bore size. If the pedal ratio is increased, there will be more travel at the master cylinder piston. If the master cylinder bore size is decreased, the piston has to travel further to move the same amount of fluid. Typically, a master cylinder has approximately 1-1/2-inch to 1-3/4-inch of stroke (travel). What you have to do is coordinate the pedal ratio with the bore size to arrive at approximately half of the stroke (roughly 1-inch) in order to make the brakes feel comfortable and stop the car safely.
Thank you
Bob
I just measured the brake pedal travel on 3 vehicles
Jeep
with booster
running
3 inch travel
HHR
with booster
Not running
2 inch travel
VW trike
No brake booster
2 inch travel
On the Jeep and HHR there would be linkage that may be changing the ratio
The VW trike just has a straight rod from the pedal
Thank you
Bob
Bob, one consideration is, a small remote mounted booster that is activated by a manual master cylinder. lots of them on e-bay they only have the capacity for small cars and I would think a trike.
Yep that is what I was thinking about
Thank you
Bob
because the mc and wheel cylinder bore vary its tough to get it right w/o some trial and error.. if possible leave room to move the pivot pint
I was doing some more measurements
I don't think I will be able to get anymore than 3 inch travel at the pedal.
I should be able to get more travel if needed via linkage
So I have to move on.
I have 1 exhaust pipe tacked together.
I am going to take more pictures of it and pull it apart for I can get exact measurements and angles
Then will start on the other pipes.
I have a friend whos son can tig real well so once I have them all tacked together I will give them to him to weld
I would love to have a tig welder but I don't
Thank you
Bob
started making the pieces
the cutoff wheel on my chop saw worn down to much so I had to stop
Thank you
Bob
have all the pieces made
at the head it was 10.3 degrees
the rest of the angles were 22.5
still need to make the channels the bolts will go in
Thank you
Bob
I have never TIG welded before but I was thinking of buying a CHEAP TIG welder and giving it a try.
I know cheap is not the way to go but I don't want to buy something expensive and not be able to do it.
Of course I would practice on other things before I tackled the headers.
I see some cheap TIG welders for around $200, then I would need a bottle and a cart
So what do you think will one of the cheap $200 units do the job.
Here is one just as an example
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Weld...a-873470992941
I really do not know what to look for in a TIG welder.
I will have to research it more
Thank you
Bob
AS always:
What makes TIG so versatile is the foot pedal that allows for real time control of the arc parameters. If you want really cheap, look at something like this: https://www.amazon.com/YESWELDER-Gas...147371&sr=8-42
It will provide the TIG arc environment with your existing DC arc machine without high frequency or power control. Still need a bottle and regulator.
am a beginning tig welder also.....lots of stick experience...accetelyne welding yrs ago... so tig is somewhat similar to accetelene welding. had to buy my first auto darkening helmet big help... lo amp tig used grinding shade, more amps, more shade. the unit pictured is not for aluminum which is fine...hence lower cost. should have a foot pedal or variable torch control....need to have small arc to find location and get filler wire into position then add power to get puddle , then back off power at end of weld.
learning to weld header flanges to thin tubes will be a challenge, but is done all the time. I think machine quality is going to be (luck of the draw) I have the ahp alpha tig, which the arc start quit after 1 month. they seemed to have on the ball techs, that helped find the bad board...sent me a replacement board and all well now.
If nothing else tig welding will keep you humble. I have made a few welds that were impressive and a lot that were not...but above all it is fun to do....got sick and tired of cleaning up weld spatter so....good luck which ever way you go!!
my friends son can TIG but he only has a TIG at work.
SO if I can get one cheap enough maybe he can give me some pointers.
He would do it for me if I wanted but I would kind of like to do it myself.
The Ol'Lady said I can get one for Christmas but it will be a cheap one.
When my friend and his son come over this weekend for Beer and Boxing I will get his opinion on a cheap welder.
I would guess if a cheap welder would work good he would have one himself though
we will see
Thank you
Bob
So the Ol'Lady says I can get one if I want.
I am thinking about this one.
https://www.amazon.com/YESWELDER-Wel...4319292&sr=8-5
I will also need to get an Argon bottle, Tungsten and filler rods and a cart
She is OK with me getting it all (she must want something herself)
I watched a couple videos of people using this welder and they did seem to do well.
Some people have reported they received the wrong parts but the manufacture corrected that
I have read that you cant teach yourself how to TIG weld but I am going to try
will research it some more before I decide
Thank you
Bob
good TIG video
Thank you
Bob
here is the welder I am thinking about getting
Thank you
Bob
worked on my square exhaust this last weekend.
they are still going to work but I had to rethink and redesign how I make room for the bolt heads.
I have made 2 different mock ups the 2nd is better than the first. Will make another change and try it again
once I have it the way I want I will modify the actual exhaust pipes I have made already
the change is only 1/16 of an inch on both sides so it gives me 1/8 inch clearance for the bolt heads. I think that will be good.
The exhaust ports on the head are 1 1/4 inch. I still have 1/4 inch (1/8 on each side) clearance
Sorry no pictures this time. My phone is dead. Waiting for a new one to arrive. The company I work for gives me a free phone.
Thank you
Bob
I ordered my welder last night.
it will be a few weeks before it gets here.
once it does I will get a bottle
Thank you
Bob
I have bought the 80 cu,ft. bottle the gas suppliers for some reason call this a "Q" bottle. came filled with 100 percent argon from weld fabulous on ebay but I have to exchange it with Praxair around here in ND this is the largest bottle I can buy....otherwize you have to lease from the gas company ....hopefully you are close to a gas supplier and will have more choices. when your welding a lot, what ever size bottle you have will seem to small LOL
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