Now I have more decisions to make

[vwbug72501]

On the subject of carb icing. I had a daily driver baja bug when I lived in Memphis. It had a single carb and 4-1 exhaust header setup. Ran into the icing problem the first time I took it to Chicago for Thanksgiving. Came off the interstate after an extended run and throttle stayed open at cruising speed! Made for an exciting exit ramp experience. I found the carb encased in 1" of ice. I remedied the problem by building a sheet metal air preheat chamber that hose clamped to the length of the muffler that had a hose that connected to the air cleaner inlet. That additional air preheat solved the problem. It also increased my winter gas mileage due to the preheated air. I took it off in the warmer weather when I wanted a cooler air charge and didn't need the additional heated air.

 

[Fowler]

On the subject of carb icing. I had a daily driver baja bug when I lived in Memphis. It had a single carb and 4-1 exhaust header setup. Ran into the icing problem the first time I took it to Chicago for Thanksgiving. Came off the interstate after an extended run and throttle stayed open at cruising speed! Made for an exciting exit ramp experience. I found the carb encased in 1" of ice. I remedied the problem by building a sheet metal air preheat chamber that hose clamped to the length of the muffler that had a hose that connected to the air cleaner inlet. That additional air preheat solved the problem. It also increased my winter gas mileage due to the preheated air. I took it off in the warmer weather when I wanted a cooler air charge and didn't need the additional heated air.

I made a Warm air intake for mine also
see it at http://www.3fowlers.com/warmairintake.html
worked real good except I could not get a good seal with the fiberglass box I made.

 

[Doughboy66]

I made a Warm air intake for mine also
see it at http://www.3fowlers.com/warmairintake.html
worked real good except I could not get a good seal with the fiberglass box I made.

Man you guys are full of great ideas!!!

 

[stinger608]

Your original post stating that you had too much metal in the oil strainer is probably due to the rear main beating the end play out of wack. I'm betting that they will have to machine the case for oversized rear main.

Also, as Snu Snu stated, anything 1776 and up will have to have the case and heads "fly cut" to accept larger cylinders. The heads can be purchased already machined fairly reasonable.

For example, here are a pretty decent head from CarCraft: http://carcraftstore.com/cylinderheads-stocktowild.aspx

For the big valve dual spring setup and opening it to 90.5mm for building a 1776, they are about $230 each.

 

[Doughboy66]

I dropped off the case at the machine shop today. They said that the mains are standard size so the case has never been line bored. It will need to be line bored not but he thinks .10 till take of it. as for the rear bearing it also has not had a thrust cut also but it will have to be done now. I am a little relived that I will not have the case.

 

[Doughboy66]

Your original post stating that you had too much metal in the oil strainer is probably due to the rear main beating the end play out of wack. I'm betting that they will have to machine the case for oversized rear main.

Also, as Snu Snu stated, anything 1776 and up will have to have the case and heads "fly cut" to accept larger cylinders. The heads can be purchased already machined fairly reasonable.

For example, here are a pretty decent head from CarCraft: http://carcraftstore.com/cylinderheads-stocktowild.aspx

For the big valve dual spring setup and opening it to 90.5mm for building a 1776, they are about $230 each.

I am thinking about using the 1800 build by aircooled.net to build my motor .

http://www.aircooled.net/1800cc-vw-engine-no-machine-combo/

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I am thinking about using the 1800 build by aircooled.net to build my motor .

http://www.aircooled.net/1800cc-vw-engine-no-machine-combo/

Yes indeed!
John sells proven parts and gives solid proven advice. You may be able to find the same part for a few dollars less but it will not have the backing, advice or customer support that John gives. All that can can be highly beneficial for a newbie to the game. I dont get much from him, I tend to choose my own parts, but I do have some technical experience of my own.
He is also one of the very few places you will find the thick wall 92 barrels in stock and also the 94 barrels with the 92 bottom.
Read all his tech articles. I was planning to link them in the tech tech tech thread.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

And as another note.....

Your case is at the shop for machine work anyhow......

Go ahead and cut the cylinder bases for the bore you want to run now.
It dont cost much for that part of the machine work. Clearance cutting the insides for big stroke cost a good bit more.

90.5 and 92 take the same cut.

92 thick wall and 94 take the same cut.

 

[dragvw2180]

The only limit to your engine is the size of your wallet . I have not seen any limit to engine size as far as cooling goes with the correct parts and compression ratio. One of the most fun engines I ever had was a 1600 with a cam , dual valve springs , header and dual DCNF carbs. It was a very dependable, fast and low cost engine . I now drive a 2387 turbo engine on the street , drives like a stock engine until I go on boost and then the fun really begins. Before you start doing any machine work I would sit down and create a realistic budget for the project and then add the cost of the parts and machine work to complete the project. I have seen so many people start out with big aspirations become overwhelmed by the costs of everything. You asked about using the Empi carbs, HPMX are actually pretty good carbs and I have used them many times . If you do decide to go with 92's I have a new set of Mahles that I will sell for a reasonable price and I live in NC . Heck I might even take you for a ride, LOL
Mike McCarthy