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Thread: Tri Glide Exhaust

  1. #1
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    Default Tri Glide Exhaust

    Background: 2015 tri, SE stage 4 kit installed, I'm tuning it, S&S head pipe and V&H twin slash slip ons.
    I have about 1500 miles on the current setup and 14k on the machine. Runs very good as is.

    Went with the S&S because I liked the looks and were supposed to be easier to tune, (dealer opinion).

    My question is if I gut the old head pipe (cat removal) will the exhaust be any quieter due to the larger crossover? As I understand it the S&S crossover section is very small. Before the S&S head pipe the twin slash were tolerable. Now the noise is bad on accel. It raps more then I would like. I can live with it if I have to with ear plugs but wear them at night and don't want to 24/7.

    I doubt anyone has this exact setup but would like educated guesses as to what would happen if the head pipe was changed. Worth the trouble or not? Don't think it will be a problem getting rid of the Head pipe so that is not a problem.

    Thanks,
    Roger

  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rchays57 View Post
    Background: 2015 tri, SE stage 4 kit installed, I'm tuning it, S&S head pipe and V&H twin slash slip ons.
    I have about 1500 miles on the current setup and 14k on the machine. Runs very good as is.

    Went with the S&S because I liked the looks and were supposed to be easier to tune, (dealer opinion).

    My question is if I gut the old head pipe (cat removal) will the exhaust be any quieter due to the larger crossover? As I understand it the S&S crossover section is very small. Before the S&S head pipe the twin slash were tolerable. Now the noise is bad on accel. It raps more then I would like. I can live with it if I have to with ear plugs but wear them at night and don't want to 24/7.

    I doubt anyone has this exact setup but would like educated guesses as to what would happen if the head pipe was changed. Worth the trouble or not? Don't think it will be a problem getting rid of the Head pipe so that is not a problem.

    Thanks,
    Roger
    If the noise is bothering you' Maybe take a look at DK's Thunder Torques..I use them and they work..
    Inexpensive and just a ten - fifteen minute install
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

  3. #3
    450+ Posts tbear's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rchays57 View Post
    Background: 2015 tri, SE stage 4 kit installed, I'm tuning it, S&S head pipe and V&H twin slash slip ons.
    I have about 1500 miles on the current setup and 14k on the machine. Runs very good as is.

    Went with the S&S because I liked the looks and were supposed to be easier to tune, (dealer opinion).

    My question is if I gut the old head pipe (cat removal) will the exhaust be any quieter due to the larger crossover? As I understand it the S&S crossover section is very small. Before the S&S head pipe the twin slash were tolerable. Now the noise is bad on accel. It raps more then I would like. I can live with it if I have to with ear plugs but wear them at night and don't want to 24/7.

    I doubt anyone has this exact setup but would like educated guesses as to what would happen if the head pipe was changed. Worth the trouble or not? Don't think it will be a problem getting rid of the Head pipe so that is not a problem.

    Thanks,
    Roger
    I have the V&H True Duals and all the Cat. stuff is gone when going with this setup. Yes it can be alittle loud thru the gears but settles down once you get cruising. I have a Tuner on it also. I also took the rhs heat guard off and that makes it even cooler when going. DK driver did it and told me about it.
    TBEAR

    2010 Triglide Harley Davidson
    V&H Exhaust,True Duals, Big Sucker Ac,,557 S&S Cam,SE Compensator 2014, oil cooler,EBC r.brakes,Progressive air-shocks,Floorboard extensions,rear fender bras, Dynoed,krome-werks 2+2 bars, and a sheep wool butt protector....

  4. #4
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    Default

    Thanks for the replies, I have a set of the thunder torques and didn't see much of a difference.


    Maybe another slip on is in the works.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rchays57 View Post
    Thanks for the replies, I have a set of the thunder torques and didn't see much of a difference.


    Maybe another slip on is in the works.
    If you've tried the W version of the TTI's with the threaded portion closest to the engine and it is still too loud (all V&H pipes are a bit sharp sounding) then a really good performing slip-on, that is very mellow and deep sounding are the HiRollers.

    You can see and hear them at this LINK.

    Kevin
    www.DKCustom.com

    Gear Up & Ride in! DK Custom 4th Annual Open House, June 8th. 🏍️ Click HERE For The Lowdown.

    Call: 662-252-8828 Text: 662-420-4891
    Email: Support@DKCustomProducts.com


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  7. #6
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    Default

    Would wrapping the baffles make much of a difference on the twin slashes?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rchays57 View Post
    Would wrapping the baffles make much of a difference on the twin slashes?
    Yes, it would deepen the tone, and a deeper tone almost always sounds quieter to the human ear.

    Kevin
    www.DKCustom.com

    Gear Up & Ride in! DK Custom 4th Annual Open House, June 8th. 🏍️ Click HERE For The Lowdown.

    Call: 662-252-8828 Text: 662-420-4891
    Email: Support@DKCustomProducts.com


  9. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rchays57 View Post
    Background: 2015 tri, SE stage 4 kit installed, I'm tuning it, S&S head pipe and V&H twin slash slip ons.
    I have about 1500 miles on the current setup and 14k on the machine. Runs very good as is.

    Went with the S&S because I liked the looks and were supposed to be easier to tune, (dealer opinion).

    My question is if I gut the old head pipe (cat removal) will the exhaust be any quieter due to the larger crossover? As I understand it the S&S crossover section is very small. Before the S&S head pipe the twin slash were tolerable. Now the noise is bad on accel. It raps more then I would like. I can live with it if I have to with ear plugs but wear them at night and don't want to 24/7.

    I doubt anyone has this exact setup but would like educated guesses as to what would happen if the head pipe was changed. Worth the trouble or not? Don't think it will be a problem getting rid of the Head pipe so that is not a problem.

    Thanks,
    Roger
    I have a 16 Tri. I have the gutted head pipe & stock mufflers. It is a tad bit louder than before but not bad. Hope this helps

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PosseRider View Post
    I have a 16 Tri. I have the gutted head pipe & stock mufflers. It is a tad bit louder than before but not bad. Hope this helps
    +1
    I have an S&S headpipe (no cat) and the rest is stock. The sound is a little louder than with the cat.
    It is what it is.

    16 Tri Glide vivid black

  11. #10
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    Default

    Think I'm going to wrap the baffles and see how that works. I can get them out fairly easily and have some stainless safety wire I can secure the 'glass with. We'll see how that sounds.

  12. #11
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rhino 2 View Post
    If the noise is bothering you' Maybe take a look at DK's Thunder Torques..I use them and they work..
    Inexpensive and just a ten - fifteen minute install
    I have a stage 4 with V & H Power Duals and this is what I did... works great and you can tweak them to change the tone and add more back pressure torque. Highly recommend.
    2011 Cool Blue TriGlide with full stage 4, a lotta other upgrades, and a lotta shiny stuff.
    Hi..My name is Trent and I am a Chromaholic.

  13. #12
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    Default

    First, the stock header with the CAT in it acts like a pre-muffler which takes some of the bark out of mufflers. If you doubt my word just look at Harley EPA certified mufflers. They say they meet EPA sound requirements only if used with stock Harley head pipes (they take into account the added muffling of the CAT in the head pipe). Second, yes, wrapping the baffles with fiberglass will make a difference as I have Twin Slash Rounds on my Trike and that is exactly what I have done. I had these mufflers on my previous bike with non-CAT head pipes and they were quite loud. Very rasping sound as I rapped it up through the gears. The fiberglass took some of the bark out of them. Now they are on my Trike and with the stock head pipe with the CAT inside they are quite mellow with a nice deep sound. Very pleasant on cruise and only barks loud when you run it hard (and sounds great inside a tunnel). By the way, forget the V&H quiet inserts they make for these mufflers. They take away the rumble and only leave a high pitched sound that sounds like crap in my opinion (and of those who have heard them). Waste of money. Hope this info helps you in your decision.

  14. #13
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    To get the baffles out I put a piece of stainless welding rod through one of the holes in the chrome part of the baffle. Right side came out as easy as when installing the tt's. Right side not so well. Clamped the wire onto a small slide hammer and tried to get it out. Ended up having only one side of the chrome part moving and now is cocked to the side. Got so tired laying on the floor and working I went inside and ordered a J&S jack. There the trike sits till the jack gets here. Hopefully I can repair the baffle when it comes out. Damn, nothing is easy anymore.

  15. #14
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    I have had my baffles out several times and have not run into the problem you are having. One of mine you just grab it and it pulls out. The other (right side) is a little more stubborn. I use a piece of steel flat stock that I drilled one end and put in a short bolt and nut. I drilled another hole in the other end. I insert the bolt into one of the holes you mention and attach a slide hammer to the other end and a few taps and out comes the baffle. Removing the muffler won't help as the front end of the baffle goes over the inlet tube so from the inlet end there is nothing to put a punch on to tap the baffle out. Best to leave the muffler attached to the trike and continue to use the slide hammer. You might try some PB Blaster around the baffle where it contacts the muffler body and let it penetrate over night. Also, mine had a hole on each side of the chrome end so you could tap from the other side to get the baffle straight. Hope this helps.

  16. #15
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    My thought was to take the muffler off, stand it up and let penetrant sit on the seam from the outlet end. Being vertical I would think the penetrant would have a longer time to do it's thing. Plus I have thunder torque inserts that I could drive against lightly, from the front. Hopefully I can repair the baffle when it comes out.

  17. DKCustoms postbit
  18. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rchays57 View Post
    My thought was to take the muffler off, stand it up and let penetrant sit on the seam from the outlet end. Being vertical I would think the penetrant would have a longer time to do it's thing. Plus I have thunder torque inserts that I could drive against lightly, from the front. Hopefully I can repair the baffle when it comes out.
    Worked like a champ. Also took a brake hone and hone the ends of the baffles and found out that they crimped the front end of the baffle, must be for a tighter fit. Took that out with a dremel. TIG welded the rear part back in place, wrapped them both in fiberglass and wire. Sounds completely different in the garage. Now just need to get out and see if the rap is better.

  19. #17
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    Moving right along, I wrapped the baffles and rode it this year. even with them wrapped it barked too loud for me. Am looking at a pair of supertrapp fat shotz. They have a 2" core and Like the ablility to tune them for sound. Maybe it's the wrong way to go but these pipes are just too annoying.

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