Oil Change using a Flo and Go Vacuum Oil Change Kit

[daf62757]

My trike needed an oil change. I have decided that I am tired of paying $300+ for an oil change at the Harley dealer so I thought I would try it one time myself.

After an attempt to do it without any life devices, I knew I would have to get it up about 4+ inches to have some room to work with.

I went online to find a solution and stumbled across the Flo and Go Vacuum kit. Here is the link on Amazon here I bought it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using it was very straight forward. You ride you bike to get the oil to operating temperature and the put the suction line down the main oil and watch the dirty oil being sucked into the big suction tank.

At first I thought that the device wasn't getting all the oil because when it had finished sucking all the oil, I measured it to determine who much to put back in. I changed out the oil filter (what a fricking mess) and put the new on. I took about 3 quarts out more or less judging from the measured oil and the oil that the came from the oil filter which was impossible to measure do so I had to guestimate it inat a total of 3 quarts.

The Harley dealer put in Harley Syn oil but I am a big fan of Royal Purple so I put in 3 quarts. After starting the engine to get some oil in the filter, I still had to add about .75 of a quart to bring it to full.

Think makes me wonder if my engine burned the oil or if the Harley dealer just didn't put that much in the first place. I trusted the dealer and didn't check the oil when the changed it but from now on, I will check the oil level religiously.

The transmission oil was next and I sucked out just shy of a quart. I used Royal Purple 75w90 syn gear oil and it too the entire quart to bring the level to full on the dipstick.

I haven't done the derby cover yet but that is my next step.

Overall, I am very impressed with the Flo and Go system. It keeps you off the floor for the most part and get almost all the oil that is in the bike.

I will do my own oil from now on because I know RP is a better oil and I feel more confident in my abilities as well as save over $200 for an oil change.

[Capt.Bob]

The Harley dealer put in Harley Syn oil but I am a big fan of Royal Purple so I put in 3 quarts. After starting the engine to get some oil in the filter, I still had to add about .75 of a quart to bring it to full.

Think makes me wonder if my engine burned the oil or if the Harley dealer just didn't put that much in the first place. I trusted the dealer and didn't check the oil when the changed it but from now on, I will check the oil level religiously.

Don't know what year your trike is but you stating that you brought the oil up to the "full" mark causes some pause. First, the oil levels should really be checked when the engine oil is hot. Secondly, many of us have found that if you go more than about 1/2 way up the "add oil" part of the dipstick that the engine will tend to blow excess oil out and the place it gets vented into is your air cleaner. Unfortunately, overfilled bikes tend to lend themselves to oil filters getting clogged with oil from the Harley venting system. Just a thought...

[daf62757]

Don't know what year your trike is but you stating that you brought the oil up to the "full" mark causes some pause. First, the oil levels should really be checked when the engine oil is hot. Secondly, many of us have found that if you go more than about 1/2 way up the "add oil" part of the dipstick that the engine will tend to blow excess oil out and the place it gets vented into is your air cleaner. Unfortunately, overfilled bikes tend to lend themselves to oil filters getting clogged with oil from the Harley venting system. Just a thought...

Thanks for the advice. The new oil was cold but I did run the engine for a bit to warm it up but I will do a test run and if needed, suck a little oil out.

[rhino 2]

I just keep the oil at the half way mark If you try to keep it at the fill line you will have blowby Also from my experience with vacuuming out you can't get all the oil out unless after you vacuum you also remove the drain plug and even then there's still oil leftover 'So lf you put ln 3.75 Qt you probably over filled?

[geezerglide11441]

My trike needed an oil change. I have decided that I am tired of paying $300+ for an oil change at the Harley dealer so I thought I would try it one time myself.

After an attempt to do it without any life devices, I knew I would have to get it up about 4+ inches to have some room to work with.

I went online to find a solution and stumbled across the Flo and Go Vacuum kit. Here is the link on Amazon here I bought it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using it was very straight forward. You ride you bike to get the oil to operating temperature and the put the suction line down the main oil and watch the dirty oil being sucked into the big suction tank.

At first I thought that the device wasn't getting all the oil because when it had finished sucking all the oil, I measured it to determine who much to put back in. I changed out the oil filter (what a fricking mess) and put the new on. I took about 3 quarts out more or less judging from the measured oil and the oil that the came from the oil filter which was impossible to measure do so I had to guestimate it inat a total of 3 quarts.

The Harley dealer put in Harley Syn oil but I am a big fan of Royal Purple so I put in 3 quarts. After starting the engine to get some oil in the filter, I still had to add about .75 of a quart to bring it to full.

Think makes me wonder if my engine burned the oil or if the Harley dealer just didn't put that much in the first place. I trusted the dealer and didn't check the oil when the changed it but from now on, I will check the oil level religiously.

The transmission oil was next and I sucked out just shy of a quart. I used Royal Purple 75w90 syn gear oil and it too the entire quart to bring the level to full on the dipstick.

I haven't done the derby cover yet but that is my next step.

Overall, I am very impressed with the Flo and Go system. It keeps you off the floor for the most part and get almost all the oil that is in the bike.

I will do my own oil from now on because I know RP is a better oil and I feel more confident in my abilities as well as save over $200 for an oil change.

David, I do not know much about "Royal Purple", but I would suggest you make sure it is ok to use in your motorcycle. Also, I would suggest you use Synthetic oil for it's high temperature characteristics. I have researched/reviewed/used several kinds of oil (all synthetics) and due the availability of Syn3 at the Harley Dealers, I have changed to exclusively using Syn3, and I have over $8K in my motor so you can bet I am "picky" about what oil/fuel I use. Just sayin !!!


Roger

[GARYD]

David, I do not know much about "Royal Purple", but I would suggest you make sure it is ok to use in your motorcycle. Also, I would suggest you use Synthetic oil for it's high temperature characteristics. I have researched/reviewed/used several kinds of oil (all synthetics) and due the availability of Syn3 at the Harley Dealers, I have changed to exclusively using Syn3, and I have over $8K in my motor so you can bet I am "picky" about what oil/fuel I use. Just sayin !!!
Roger

Picky? and you still use Syn3??
Hopefully at least not in all 3 holes.

I think he's referring to RP syn motorcycle oil. Which is fine.

[geezerglide11441]

Picky? and you still use Syn3??

Hopefully at least not in all 3 holes.

I think he's referring to RP syn motorcycle oil. Which is fine.

Yea Gary, I am "Picky" regarding my oil/fuel and I have tried everyone of the "so called" awesome synthetics and probably read/reviewed clinical reports on all synthetics oils and filters as well. My first choice was Redline and then Mobil 1, but found it too hard to find on a trip or even locally. Regarding Mobil 1, I had a hard time finding the Mobil 1 for motorcycles in our area.

The Red Line was available at my dealer, but have not found it in any other dealer during my travels. And NO, I do not put Syn 3 in any other hole except the crankcase. I use Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof in the trans and Harley Dino oil in the primary. These choices were ALL made by me as a result of my extended studies/reviews. I realized early on that I was responsible for all my own choices, and if wrong, I paid for the mistakes.

I trust my personal selections are approved by you???

Roger

[tbear]

Yea Gary, I am "Picky" regarding my oil/fuel and I have tried everyone of the "so called" awesome synthetics and probably read/reviewed clinical reports on all synthetics oils and filters as well. My first choice was Redline and then Mobil 1, but found it too hard to find on a trip or even locally. Regarding Mobil 1, I had a hard time finding the Mobil 1 for motorcycles in our area.

The Red Line was available at my dealer, but have not found it in any other dealer during my travels. And NO, I do not put Syn 3 in any other hole except the crankcase. I use Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof in the trans and Harley Dino oil in the primary. These choices were ALL made by me as a result of my extended studies/reviews. I realized early on that I was responsible for all my own choices, and if wrong, I paid for the mistakes.

I trust my personal selections are approved by you???

Roger

Roger,

I too use the same oils as you. I use too use Mobil 1 in the Crankcase. I don't know if you know this but; Mobil 1 20/50

MC syn. oil can also be purchased at Meijers store if you have one by you. and as for harley dino oil, is that because of the Compensator? just wondering---------------tbear

[alienwulf]

Looks like a pretty good way to get fluids out of your bike. Couple of thoughts I have are there are magnets on all 3 of your drain plugs. They should be checked for metal, will show if anything is going wrong before it gets bad. I would want to check them every other change for sure. As far as oil if it's rated for 4 stroke motorcycles should be good to go. Everyone has an opinion which is best, I use red line from Amazon get the complete kit. If the need comes up to buy a quart on the road I will use anything to get back home, after all its all oil. I am sure the more you change your oil the better you will get at it..and save a lot.

[geezerglide11441]

Roger,
I too use the same oils as you. I use too use Mobil 1 in the Crankcase. I don't know if you know this but; Mobil 1 20/50
MC syn. oil can also be purchased at Meijers store if you have one by you. and as for harley dino oil, is that because of the Compensator? just wondering---------------tbear

Yes, the study I went through regarding the "Fretting" indicated that the Harley Dino oil performed best!!

Roger

[GARYD]

Yea Gary, I am "Picky" regarding my oil/fuel and I have tried everyone of the "so called" awesome synthetics and probably read/reviewed clinical reports on all synthetics oils and filters as well. My first choice was Redline and then Mobil 1, but found it too hard to find on a trip or even locally. Regarding Mobil 1, I had a hard time finding the Mobil 1 for motorcycles in our area.

The Red Line was available at my dealer, but have not found it in any other dealer during my travels. And NO, I do not put Syn 3 in any other hole except the crankcase. I use Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof in the trans and Harley Dino oil in the primary. These choices were ALL made by me as a result of my extended studies/reviews. I realized early on that I was responsible for all my own choices, and if wrong, I paid for the mistakes.

I trust my personal selections are approved by you???

Roger

I was just pulling your chain. Didn't you see my smiley faces? Sorry I offended you. Sure didn't mean to.

I've always used Amsoil since I was a dealer. The last 3 years I've bought the dealers PPM service plan. I save hundreds off the regular services and I get to name my oil and get a loaner. Since my dealer also sells Amsoil, I have them put it in instead of Syn3. I like the additive package a lot better then all the other synthetic oils.

Bottom line is ANY brand name syn oil will be fine.

[geezerglide11441]

Yea Gary, I am "Picky" regarding my oil/fuel and I have tried everyone of the "so called" awesome synthetics and probably read/reviewed clinical reports on all synthetics oils and filters as well. My first choice was Redline and then Mobil 1, but found it too hard to find on a trip or even locally. Regarding Mobil 1, I had a hard time finding the Mobil 1 for motorcycles in our area. The Red Line was available at my dealer, but have not found it in any other dealer during my travels. And NO, I do not put Syn 3 in any other hole except the crankcase. I use Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof in the trans and Harley Dino oil in the primary. These choices were ALL made by me as a result of my extended studies/reviews. I realized early on that I was responsible for all my own choices, and if wrong, I paid for the mistakes.

I trust my personal selections are approved by you???

Roger

I was just pulling your chain. Didn't you see my smiley faces? Sorry I offended you. Sure didn't mean to.

I've always used Amsoil since I was a dealer. The last 3 years I've bought the dealers PPM service plan. I save hundreds off the regular services and I get to name my oil and get a loaner. Since my dealer also sells Amsoil, I have them put it in instead of Syn3. I like the additive package a lot better then all the other synthetic oils.

Bottom line is ANY brand name syn oil will be fine.

No worry as I have a LONG chain!! During my oil studies where I tried to find un-biased analysis, was very difficult since all the studies that I could find were commissioned by Amsoil, so guess which one was on top!!! In any event, both Mobil 1 and Redline were either second or third on all the individual tests (actually 1 or 2 they even bested Amsoil) so I tried both and only went to Syn 3 for availability and they never bested Mobil 1 or Red Line, but I also have NEVER read anything that oil selection caused engine failure!! If you check my past posts/threads/responses you will find that I have NEVER requested an opinion from anyone on this site (no offense intended either!!), but always do my own research for anything I have questions/concerns about. Like I previously stated, if I make my own decision I only have myself to pat on the back or to blame and pay the price!!

Take care and ride safe!!

Roger

[DK Custom Products]

My trike needed an oil change. I have decided that I am tired of paying $300+ for an oil change at the Harley dealer so I thought I would try it one time myself.

After an attempt to do it without any life devices, I knew I would have to get it up about 4+ inches to have some room to work with.

I went online to find a solution and stumbled across the Flo and Go Vacuum kit. Here is the link on Amazon here I bought it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using it was very straight forward. You ride you bike to get the oil to operating temperature and the put the suction line down the main oil and watch the dirty oil being sucked into the big suction tank.

At first I thought that the device wasn't getting all the oil because when it had finished sucking all the oil, I measured it to determine who much to put back in. I changed out the oil filter (what a fricking mess) and put the new on. I took about 3 quarts out more or less judging from the measured oil and the oil that the came from the oil filter which was impossible to measure do so I had to guestimate it inat a total of 3 quarts.

The Harley dealer put in Harley Syn oil but I am a big fan of Royal Purple so I put in 3 quarts. After starting the engine to get some oil in the filter, I still had to add about .75 of a quart to bring it to full.

Think makes me wonder if my engine burned the oil or if the Harley dealer just didn't put that much in the first place. I trusted the dealer and didn't check the oil when the changed it but from now on, I will check the oil level religiously.

The transmission oil was next and I sucked out just shy of a quart. I used Royal Purple 75w90 syn gear oil and it too the entire quart to bring the level to full on the dipstick.

I haven't done the derby cover yet but that is my next step.

Overall, I am very impressed with the Flo and Go system. It keeps you off the floor for the most part and get almost all the oil that is in the bike.

I will do my own oil from now on because I know RP is a better oil and I feel more confident in my abilities as well as save over $200 for an oil change.

Hey, thanks for posting that link. I'm going to give it a go.

I ride a lot and end up doing about 8-12 oil changes a year...and not having to futz with a drain pan or getting under the bike/trike is very appealing.

btw, you never have to deal with the mess of the oil filter again if you get an Oil Filter Relo Kit. Makes changing the filter a breeze.

Kevin

[daf62757]

Looks like a pretty good way to get fluids out of your bike. Couple of thoughts I have are there are magnets on all 3 of your drain plugs. They should be checked for metal, will show if anything is going wrong before it gets bad. I would want to check them every other change for sure. As far as oil if it's rated for 4 stroke motorcycles should be good to go. Everyone has an opinion which is best, I use red line from Amazon get the complete kit. If the need comes up to buy a quart on the road I will use anything to get back home, after all its all oil. I am sure the more you change your oil the better you will get at it..and save a lot.

Just curious, what is the price of the Mobil One MC oil at Meijer?

[rhino 2]

Just curious, what is the price of the Mobil One MC oil at Meijer?

9.59 A quart.......

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Two things come to mind about vacuuming the old oil out. These are just food for thought.

1) if you vacuum all the time, you won't get to check the magnetic center of the drain plug. You might miss an early sign of unusual wear.

2) I believe from research, you might not get any sludge left in the pan when you vacuum, you might not get it all by pulling the plug, but, if you get any more oil out by draining, that oil is where sludge would be.

Summary:

Guys that put huge miles on their trike (yep talking about you Kevin) I think it would be fine for like every other change or maybe even 2 out of three changes. I think it would be important every once in awhile to pull the plug.

Guys that are "normal" Harley riders, you know 5k a year or so, I think it would be imperative to pull the plug each time.

Just MHO.

[DK Custom Products]

Two things come to mind about vacuuming the old oil out. These are just food for thought.

1) if you vacuum all the time, you won't get to check the magnetic center of the drain plug. You might miss an early sign of unusual wear.

2) I believe from research, you might not get any sludge left in the pan when you vacuum, you might not get it all by pulling the plug, but, if you get any more oil out by draining, that oil is where sludge would be.

Summary:

Guys that put huge miles on their trike (yep talking about you Kevin) I think it would be fine for like every other change or maybe even 2 out of three changes. I think it would be important every once in awhile to pull the plug.

Guys that are "normal" Harley riders, you know 5k a year or so, I think it would be imperative to pull the plug each time.

Just MHO.

Well Fuzzy, you're a party pooper!

I had not thought of that...was so stoked about easier oil/primary/trans changes.

But you make a VERY GOOD point about inspecting the magnet.

My Flo-n-Go was delivered today, and is sitting in my home office...I might use it every other oil change, as you suggest, but I don't think I will on the primary/trans. I do like to see what is on the magnet.

....OR...I may still use it, and when it is "dry" pull the plug then and look at/clean the magnet. We'll see.

I've Never seen sludge in a drain for decades...not too concerned about that.

A big Thank You for the heads up!

Kevin

[Gorilla]

Fuzzy Kevin my thought also after sucking the oil out pull the plug to inspect. Should be very little oil to come out.

[Capt.Bob]

Fuzzy Kevin my thought also after sucking the oil out pull the plug to inspect. Should be very little oil to come out.

Now I am thinking, that there are the additional concerns of the vacuum overcoming the magnet, sucking up a significant portion of the filings on the drain plug magnets and invalidating your follow-on inspection?

Seems like the vacuum may be a solution looking for a problem. How many years have we just "dropped" the oil? I think I will continue to let gravity do my work rather than this new fangled device you are all talking about

[geezerglide11441]

Now I am thinking, that there are the additional concerns of the vacuum overcoming the magnet, sucking up a significant portion of the filings on the drain plug magnets and invalidating your follow-on inspection?

Seems like the vacuum may be a solution looking for a problem. How many years have we just "dropped" the oil? I think I will continue to let gravity do my work rather than this new fangled device you are all talking about

Roger