wilwood calipers for trike use

[BIBS]

Hello all!! I just recently inquired about a set of wilwood 2 piston calipers for my DNA rear'd trike....Like a dummy, I forgot to ask the people I bought them off of>>>Santiago choppers out of florida<<<for a part no#

Can anyone here hazard a quess as to their performance,bleeding characteristics,etc.?

Of course I'm using my Wagner/lockheed master....3/4" bore and probobly with a 2lb residual valve just after the master.(uum mebe this time I wont need it with the new calipers)

Here's their site,page showing the calipers>>Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Calipers

looks like some of them have dual bleeders.

Go to this "tutorial" of santiagos>>>scroll down to step 9#....I think they are the ones.http://www.santiagochopper.com/media/trike_conversions/tutorial/Trike_Conversion_Tutorial.html

 

[Nana]

Santiago Choppers is one of our sponsors here, BIBS. Click on their banner on any page here and it will take you to their site. You can email them with your question, or just give them a call directly. Great guys! Scott is our contact there, if that helps you.

 

[BIBS]

Thanks Nana!!....the guy I spoke to there is Mike,one of the mechanics...he seems quite knowlegable(I shudda asked him for the wilwood part no#!!)

 

[1550vt]

I went to the Santiago site and did find the description of the Wilwood system they have listed. Unfortunately....they do not say what the Wilwood model or part number is and I cannot find it from the Santiago page.

When you go to the Wildwood site, you really cannot tell what Santiago is providing, because there are numerous models. Since Santiago doesn't say....we don't know and could only guess.

Looks like you are going to have to "wait for the mail" or you will have to call Mike before we all know what you have.

BTW, this is the first time I have had a chance to take a look at their axle. I know it is one of the more economical ones out there and appears to be much like the Lehman with the sealed differential case. Looks like one way they make it more economical is that they have no lateral adjustment for belt alignment. You have to get it right the first time and then weld it into position. I'm not saying that's a bad thing and if I had to purchase another rear-end....it would be one of theirs. You just have to get belt/chain tracking right the first time before you weld it in place. This axle can be had for less than $1000 and Lehman wanted $2800 for just the differential and that price was to a Lehman dealer only.

 

[BIBS]

OK...here's what I ordered,they oughta be a cinch to bleed!!
>>Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - PS1 Calipers
Right side and left.

 

[Baz]

OK...here's what I ordered,they oughta be a cinch to bleed!!
>>Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - PS1 Calipers
Right side and left.

I would be interested to read as to how it all pans out for you.
My brakes are crap also & was thinking of fitting Wilwood units with a 3/4 in M/C.
Wilwood is used a lot over here for race car builds & enjoys a good reputation.

 

[1550vt]

Baz...BIBS will tell you right up front that he is looking for a HARD pedal....and I mean REALLY hard. These 1-inch piston bores with the 3/4 MC should be very hard and much too hard for the average rider. BIBS is a big strong guy (so I will never make him mad). He will tell us pretty quickly this week how he comes out with this combination.

You can get Wilwood calipers with a little larger bore size that will make them a bit softer. I am anxious to see how BIBS likes this set-up.

 

[BIBS]

Baz...BIBS will tell you right up front that he is looking for a HARD pedal....and I mean REALLY hard. These 1-inch piston bores with the 3/4 MC should be very hard and much too hard for the average rider. BIBS is a big strong guy (so I will never make him mad). He will tell us pretty quickly this week how he comes out with this combination.

You can get Wilwood calipers with a little larger bore size that will make them a bit softer. I am anxious to see how BIBS likes this set-up.

Well the brakes Bled out OK,replaced one "questionable" line from the TEE to the left wheel.Once all was said and done I had a ROCK SOLID brake pedal,harder than most of Yall would like with that 3/4" master.
I took 'er down the road 30-40 miles(around the block ya might say)and used the brakes sparingly....NO hard stops,just gradual pedal effort.
>>>>conclusion.......They will stop ya but ya need Rocks in your feet to bring 'er down quick!!!
NOW THEN....I dont mind that with size 12 clodhoppers,matter of fact they feel Fine for me!!
For a slightly lighter fella:blush:...um a thin'n heah Lucy...Ya might not find this set-up to ya likin!!!
It takes Weight on the pedal ta stop 'er.
I NOW use the front brake in conjunction with the back brakes.....and they pull me to a stop just Fine!!!!

 

[1550vt]

BIBS and I worked-over this so much that I almost feel joined-at-the-hip with him (LOL). BIBS and I have become pretty good friends and it took me a little while to understand that he really...really....really wanted a hard brake and has the power to stomp the pedal. This set-up he has is not for the normal person and I think he has done a good job of explaining that in his last post.

In simple terms, brake pedal/lever feel is based on the relationship between the bore size of the master cylinder and the bore sizes of all the caliper pistons you are trying to push against the brake rotor/rotors with that master cylinder. Lever/pedal leverage can also enter the equation, if you want to pursue that. All this is stated in terms of "ratio". A low ratio results in a harder brake feel and conversely, a higher ratio results in a softer feel. A ratio of around 10-12 would feel hard enough for the normal person and anything above 15-16 for the rear brake may be too soft.

BIBS understands that all he would have to do is change his master cylinder to a smaller size to soften his up a bit, but he seems satisfied with what he has.

Anyone wanting to pursue the feel of their brakes and are considering component changes are welcome to PM me and I have a master cylinder ratio chart that I will gladly send them. It's just a simple table with the math already done that will show you the ratio between caliper (piston) size and master cylinder (piston) size.

When you build a trike and add a caliper, you may well find your brakes too soft because you are reducing your ratio. This can be altered by going with smaller size calipers, or a larger size master cylinder. You can be limited with what you can do in terms of master cylinder size, simply because the bike you have will not easily accept the fitment of a larger master cylinder, but you can alter the caliper size.

BIBS....I'm glad you got what you were looking for.

 

[BIBS]

:beerchug:

 

[Gorilla]

Congrats Guys Job well done