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Thread: Coil Question

  1. #1
    100+ Posts sonny8l3's Avatar
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    Default Coil Question

    Hello, I rewired my trike last week. It has been doing fine as a daily rider. Yesterday I went to the store about a mile away. I left the trike running for the 2 minutes I was inside, 1 pt. of ice cream and I live in the sticks. Half way down the driveway at home and it died like I turned off the key. Tried to restart and the motor turned over but sounded like no fire. This morning I checked continuity of the coil wire from battery to fuse to coil. I didn't find any thing wrong. Pluged every thing back in and turned the key. Don't ya know it fired right up. By the by, I'm mechanically declined and I am at my limit. What I'm wondering is, does a coil just quit without warning or do they let you know it's coming? Also, are they like the old condensers that ran until they got hot and would work after they cooled. I don't have a condenser on this bike. I'm wondering if I should by a new coil.

    Thanks for your time.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by sonny8l3 View Post
    Hello, I rewired my trike last week. It has been doing fine as a daily rider. Yesterday I went to the store about a mile away. I left the trike running for the 2 minutes I was inside, 1 pt. of ice cream and I live in the sticks. Half way down the driveway at home and it died like I turned off the key. Tried to restart and the motor turned over but sounded like no fire. This morning I checked continuity of the coil wire from battery to fuse to coil. I didn't find any thing wrong. Pluged every thing back in and turned the key. Don't ya know it fired right up. By the by, I'm mechanically declined and I am at my limit. What I'm wondering is, does a coil just quit without warning or do they let you know it's coming? Also, are they like the old condensers that ran until they got hot and would work after they cooled. I don't have a condenser on this bike. I'm wondering if I should by a new coil.

    Thanks for your time.
    See my post on the thread Carburetor Question... That might help....I meant that post for you...I got a little mixed up.....
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

  3. #3
    100+ Posts sonny8l3's Avatar
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    Thanks for the post and letting me know that other folks miss the cross hairs too. If that pump is bad will it kill the motor instantly or sputter like it's out of gas?

    Thanks for your time

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    Quote Originally Posted by sonny8l3 View Post
    Thanks for the post and letting me know that other folks miss the cross hairs too. If that pump is bad will it kill the motor instantly or sputter like it's out of gas?

    Thanks for your time
    Its an electromagnetic, Plunger, And it will shut the engine down...'And sputter unless you can keep the engine over an idle ...Before it shuts down...

    Hope this helps, Remember i'm doing this from ancient memories...
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

  5. #5
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    Did lt do this before you rewired it? If it just started maybe one of your connectins isn?t good.

  6. #6
    100+ Posts sonny8l3's Avatar
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    The start, don't start, die began after my rewiring. Considering my mechanical ability it is no surprise. I checked continuity and conections and finally narrowed it to maybe the coil. Hauled it to my mechanic this morning to get a coil. He pulled out a test light and went to pocking around. He got to a brand new out of the box relay that I bought and installed which put power to the new fuse box. While checking the spades he moved the relay and the test light went out, move it again and it lit up. Turned out, after about 6 hours for rechecking, it was a bad relay. Note to self, next time buy the $14 relay instead od the $5 relay. I do appreciate all the info though. I am slowly progessing to mechanically inept.

    Thanks for your time

  7. #7
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    I have to believe it's in the wiring somewhere. Double check all your ignition wiring and ends.

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    remember for some relays to work correctly, they do need to be installed properly. I just mean with proper gauge wires, primary and secondary circuits, along with proper voltage being present for them to work.

    Also remember that when a VW warms up and gets a bit hot, a low charging system can break down more from heat making it lower, thus relays can fail or turn off, and even coils can break down from the heat and thus not deliver the needed out put, points in dist. seem to get past it, but electronic ignitions will/can stop working because of low voltage. Which also can lead to an old battery or one that needs service.

    I am learning more to, just have learned it can get into a lot of things, and we as owners and mechanics can do more damage than good at times, but than again that is how we learn knew things and better our skills.

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    Also remember that when a VW warms up and gets a bit hot, a low charging system can break down more from heat making it lower, thus relays can fail or turn off, and even coils can break down from the heat and thus not deliver the needed out put, points in dist. seem to get past it, but electronic ignitions will/can stop working because of low voltage. Which also can lead to an old battery or one that needs service.
    Points systems are a bit more forgiving than electronics

    I have seen electronic systems shut down @ 10.5 volts, points systems can some times go longer even up to almost a dead battery before sputtering
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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