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Thread: 1996 Road Hawk Handicapped Trike

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    Just wanted to bring everyone up to date. So far have the wiring working, was able to get a new windshield for it and the correct one at that. I ran it up and down the road a few times but she backfires like crazy and stalls out. So off to my local mech to take a look at it and it's been there for the last few weeks.

    He's stumped as to why he can't get it running the way he wants it too, plus we found an oil leak and a trans leak that he's checking out for me. Guess it will be next Spring before I'm riding it, but I want it safe and ready to go anywhere Will keep everyone up to date Once again I thank everyone for all the info, this place rocks.

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    Glad to hear you're gaining on it, Jim. Forward progress is good both from a project standpoint and from a mental standpoint.

    Just a quick question for you: How is the rear brake setup?

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    Just a thought a vacuum leak?
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

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    Quote Originally Posted by peteg59 View Post
    Glad to hear you're gaining on it, Jim. Forward progress is good both from a project standpoint and from a mental standpoint.

    Just a quick question for you: How is the rear brake setup?
    The rears are disk brakes, there are 2 sets of calipers on both sides, the handle bars have a master cylinder and brake lever on both sides, the right brake controls one set of calipers on both sides and the left brake controls the other set of calipers. There are no front brakes on it. I'm guessing it was setup this way, so that if one side fails than there is still the other set that will work.

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    Welcome from central ND!
    Jim (Gunnar on this site) and Kristie Buschta

    2017 Harley Triglide Ultra, Bonneville Blue/Fathom Blue, too many extras to list!!!

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    Default Still working on it.

    Wanted to touch base with everyone. My mechanic is still working on the Trike, it's a real hard starter and keeps stalling out. They've cleaned and adjusted carbs and still same prob. Will keep trying, nice weathers coming and I want to ride hopefully we'll get it figured out.

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    A awesome set up you have for this Trike. I do want to see you ride and enjoy it.

    Vacuum leak cold be the cause, also could be losing upper end supply from the coil breaking down.

    Stock engine, or has it been modified ? If you are running Kad's, they can be touch and most will need upgrading and re jetting once you play with the engine in upgrades.

    How is the exhaust look, white smoke is lean or oil burning, black smoke is rich, and if you have black suet at the end of the tail pipe she is running to rich, or carbs are flooding.

    Now the next thing is regulator and fuel pressure supplied to carb's, if it matters with what you have.

    Modified engines also wind up timing a bit different than stock, so be aware it may need to be advanced some more than stock.

    28 to 32 BTDC at near 2500RPM's, well mine is 34 to 36 BTDC at 3800 RPM's... as I increase RPM's the timing marks just keep climbing and it tops out at the 36 BTDC at 3800 RPM's.

    If your are running a set of kad's, I will see if I can send you a link to the info I have about them. My mind just remembers something about idling and running, but stalling out and dieing when you give it the gas. To much gas or not enough........ is what I think.

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    Default Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by grandpanystrom61 View Post
    A awesome set up you have for this Trike. I do want to see you ride and enjoy it.

    Vacuum leak cold be the cause, also could be losing upper end supply from the coil breaking down.

    Stock engine, or has it been modified ? If you are running Kad's, they can be touch and most will need upgrading and re jetting once you play with the engine in upgrades.

    How is the exhaust look, white smoke is lean or oil burning, black smoke is rich, and if you have black suet at the end of the tail pipe she is running to rich, or carbs are flooding.

    Now the next thing is regulator and fuel pressure supplied to carb's, if it matters with what you have.

    Modified engines also wind up timing a bit different than stock, so be aware it may need to be advanced some more than stock.

    28 to 32 BTDC at near 2500RPM's, well mine is 34 to 36 BTDC at 3800 RPM's... as I increase RPM's the timing marks just keep climbing and it tops out at the 36 BTDC at 3800 RPM's.

    If your are running a set of kad's, I will see if I can send you a link to the info I have about them. My mind just remembers something about idling and running, but stalling out and dieing when you give it the gas. To much gas or not enough........ is what I think.
    Thank you so much for all this info, I'm going to take this over to my mechanic today and see what he can come up with. Once again thank you so much for all this info, Jim.

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    hawkmtn33...... check the valve lash, valve springs, especially the intakes.....if a spring is broken or lash is too tight the piston coming up on compression will blow your intake fuel/air mixture back out f the cylinder ......making starting and idle almost impossible....also I'm assuming a good blue spark at cranking rpm, and timing set around 10 deg. if a miss shows up after the engine warms up........again check valve lash....better a tad loose than too tight. These, and most engines don't have to be perfect to run pretty darn good! good luck on your trouble shooting!

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    You keep saying carbs.....as in plural.

    What carbs do you have?

    Stock or stock type solex or kadron single barrel carbs can corrode and plug up solid in the low speed fuel circuit.

    I had an empi copy of a solex that was so plugged that I was wondering if I was wrong or if it had not been machined from the factory. After several attempts I did finally get a wire through it. Just kept breaking wires out of the wire brush and stabbing at it.

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