Starting in gear?

Sep 12, 2016
33
16
Tam[a Florida
New problem showed up just yesterday. I usually park in-gear and then use Neutral for starting. But I decided to start in first since I was just going 2 blocks to the store. Pull clutch, set hand brake and it started just fine.

Exit grocery, pack items in trunk, hop on and nuttiin. Pulled clutch several times, pushed brake couple times, zip, zilch, nada, ain’t happening. So I put in neutral and started and got home.

This AM, first thing, started in-gear fine. After 10 min ride to Lowe’s, nothing, zip, zilch, nada. Had to use Neutral again.

Dealersays probably the handlebar cluster on Left side.

Good news, it starts in Neutral. Bad news, left Handlebar cluster backordered till 8 Dec for dealer.
 
Even though my TG is older, I would recommend turning the ignition switch OFF then back ON. Never did it at dealer, but I usually can start after doing that once if at first it didn’t start.
 
I have had my left switch pack replaced because of poor idle issues.Unless I hold both brakes tight mine wont start in gear.The switch packs are a issue because everything runs thru the ECM and or the Canbus system.
 
Just had my Left switch pack replaced under warranty last Friday.

It was on backorder for 6 weeks before I got it.

Tech said that although Harley won't admit they are having a lot of trouble with that switch pack.

It is the clutch switch that is in it that is the problem

Bob
 
start in gear

My 17 TG had to have the switch replaced.

Would not start in gear.

Now no problem.

have the dealer replace the switch.

ride safe

Geo
 
Mine has had to be replaced 3 times in the year and 2 months I have had it. It definatly is an issue that HD needs to do something about.
 
Mine has had to be replaced 3 times in the year and 2 months I have had it. It definatly is an issue that HD needs to do something about.

Yep, this problem has been going on for years. I've had at least one replaced on every bike I've had since I first experienced the problem on my 2009 Ultra. Did not have this problem before 2009.

You would think HD could save some money by purchasing a bit higher quality components.

Kevin
 
Yep, this problem has been going on for years. I've had at least one replaced on every bike I've had since I first experienced the problem on my 2009 Ultra. Did not have this problem before 2009.

You would think HD could save some money by purchasing a bit higher quality components.

Kevin

I never had this problem on my 2009 Tri-Glide or my 2010 Ultra. The 2017 Tri-Glide is the first one I have had the problem with.
 
Harley outsmarted itself again

In 2009 with the frame change to the baggers along came new switches

These switches are all micro switches built in to the switch half module= non serviceable

If 1 or circuit goes bad the whole switch needs to be relaced

If HD had them in stock they would be admitting they have a problem IMO

I have had 2 failures on my 15 Freewheeler

None yet on my 17

However I am pretty sure my clutch switch is heading South
 
So why is puttting it in neutral to start such a bad thing?

It's probably preferable most of the time...although, like rhino 2, I park in gear and most of the time start in gear.

BUT...I have read of guys that have been in an intersection and inadvertently stalled (and could only start in neutral). When that happens, one is vulnerable to getting hit, having to go thru the extra step of finding neutral before starting just lengthens the time to get out of that dangerous situation.

Related to the above...on the new bikes, the brakes need to be applied if starting in gear...not such a good idea if in traffic and rolling...then you have to slow/stop to get moving again.

Kevin
 
It's probably preferable most of the time...although, like rhino 2, I park in gear and most of the time start in gear.

BUT...I have read of guys that have been in an intersection and inadvertently stalled (and could only start in neutral). When that happens, one is vulnerable to getting hit, having to go thru the extra step of finding neutral before starting just lengthens the time to get out of that dangerous situation.

Related to the above...on the new bikes, the brakes need to be applied if starting in gear...not such a good idea if in traffic and rolling...then you have to slow/stop to get moving again.

Kevin

Good points all and I do agree. But from a cold start I always do start in neutral since the clutch plates tend to drag after sitting a while. May not notice it on newer bikes that require you to hold the brake when starting in gear but if you've ever done a cold start on a bike that did not have the lock out feature and you did not hold the brake you no doubt noticed how the bike lurched forward a bit when doing a cold start in gear. I think this is added strain on the starter. But once everything is warmed up if I have to stop I do start up in gear.

BTW I have gotten in the habit of using my parking brake even though I do always park in gear. I guess it's a belt and suspenders kind of thing. Just added insurance I guess.
 
Good points all and I do agree. But from a cold start I always do start in neutral since the clutch plates tend to drag after sitting a while. May not notice it on newer bikes that require you to hold the brake when starting in gear but if you've ever done a cold start on a bike that did not have the lock out feature and you did not hold the brake you no doubt noticed how the bike lurched forward a bit when doing a cold start in gear. I think this is added strain on the starter. But once everything is warmed up if I have to stop I do start up in gear.

BTW I have gotten in the habit of using my parking brake even though I do always park in gear. I guess it's a belt and suspenders kind of thing. Just added insurance I guess.

Agree with you 100%. Just lazy sometimes.

Directly related...my Softail has had a weak factory starter from day 1. If it is cold, I pretty much have to start in neutral, since the starter has a really hard time turning over with the extra drag from the cold oil on the clutch plates.

Kevin
 
Absolutely no doubt about there being extra strain on the entire starting system when stating in gear. I ALWAYS park my bike in gear, hop on and move the bike slightly in which ever direction it needs to go to take the strain off the drive train then hit the starter. Over the years it's become 2nd nature to find the sweet spot.

PC
 
Update! On 6 Dec I went in to dealer to ck on status of switchpack. ( 8 Dec was backorder date). The switchpack was still backorder with 20 Dec as the new date. TODAY, just for something to do, I stoped again to check and the backorder date is now the 29 of December.. Seems every time I check the update, the backorder date moves another 10 days farther.

Hope thisis just just a temporary problem with the part.
 
Update! On 6 Dec I went in to dealer to ck on status of switchpack. ( 8 Dec was backorder date). The switchpack was still backorder with 20 Dec as the new date. TODAY, just for something to do, I stoped again to check and the backorder date is now the 29 of December.. Seems every time I check the update, the backorder date moves another 10 days farther.

Hope thisis just just a temporary problem with the part.

Hope they get you fixed up soon.

Moving backorder dates are usually an indication of a widespread issue. I've been thru it in the past with compensators and rear brake light sending units...this is when they were having a high rate of failures.

Also, sometimes HD changes suppliers, which can cause a hiccup in their inventory levels.

Kevin
 
Had the same issue develop on my '17 Tri Glide last month. Dealer "could not duplicate" the problem first time. Second time in they could duplicate it.. Switch pack was on "backorder" then, so I opted and paid a little in difference and had illuminated switch packs put on!!!! Dealer had them in stock!
 

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