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Thread: Replacement drive belt

  1. #1
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    Default Replacement drive belt

    So I just finished replacing the drive belt on my Road King / MotorTrike conversion. What a job ! Had doggone near every tool from the box out, and every combination of long & short, box, open, and ratcheting wrenches and all of my socket extensions ( both ⅜ and ½ drive ). And help from a friend.

    But it can be done ! No removing the body. Just a lot of finagling to get the (2) frame pieces removed and then out with the old, in with the new.

    If you have to do it yourself, use both you HD service manual AND a MotorTrike Installation manual. And go slow .

  2. #2
    80+ Posts dmillsr3's Avatar
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    I replaced my belt during the process of converting my '87 Electra Glide to trike. I found it to be an intense project but one that could do and did without help. I did purchase the HD tools for removal of the clutch hub nut. I have a set of old craftsman 3/4" tools I inherited from my father and without which I could not have done the job. It was a good time to replace all the seals on the transmission and inner primary case to stop some of the leaks. Good times.
    1987 Electra Glide--Almost Completely Stock, except:
    114 cubic inch (120 hp) Ultima, super E carb, Mystery Designs IRS trike conversion, Progressive Mono-shock front fork inserts, Hawg Hauler rake kit, BDL open belt drive, Baker reverse, Pauchgo 2 into 1 exhaust, custom dash, and a few other modifications and upgrades
    Shade Tree Conversion

  3. #3
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    I had to make a primary locking tool from a piece of 1 x ½ rigid plastic. My clutch nut is a 1.187, which is the same ( within .007 ) of 30mm, and amazingly enough I had that one. Had to buy a T70 Torx bit for the compensator bolt. Everything came apart and reassembled fairly smoothly, but working on the conversion end of the bike was tight with the body in place. Replaced some fasteners ( went from hex head to socket head ). Made reassembly much easier. Toughest part was the lock bolts that keep the belt tension. A bear to get to, taking two people to each have wrenches, coming in from top ( seat removed ) and underneath. But I was happy to be able to do this myself. HD shop wouldn't do it, and I'm not confident in the local MotorTrike shop ( new owners since my conversion was done ).

    ed

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    4250+ Posts pcombe's Avatar
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    I have found the body removal is not such an intense step and believe me it makes life so much simpler.

    Remove travel trunk, unplug a few wires and remove 6 body bolts and wha-la, ease of access.

    last i knew Harley charged at least $1000.00 to do a triglide, I did my Champion conversion myself so am familiar with the procedures.

    Wouldn't it be nice if i didn't have to split the axle?
    Enjoy life now!----------IT HAS AN EXPERATION DATE

    1989 HARLEY DAVIDSON TOUR GLIDE ULTRA CHAMPION- A WOLF IN SHEEP'S CLOTHING-(CUT YOUR WOLF LOOSE!)


    the difference between a good trike and a bad one depends entirely on the integrity of it's builder!

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    13500+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcombe View Post
    last i knew Harley charged at least $1000.00 to do a triglide
    When HD did my drive belt under warrantee, they gave me a copy of the work order for my records. Seems to me it was closer to $!500, but, I can't find the work order. And that's what they got paid from HD. Probably more if it wasn't warrantee.

  6. DKCustoms postbit
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    13500+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Found the thread about it.

    https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...ock+drive+belt

    See post #37 for pic of work order.

    it was about $1500.

  8. #7
    4250+ Posts pcombe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FuzzyWuzHe View Post
    When HD did my drive belt under warrantee, they gave me a copy of the work order for my records. Seems to me it was closer to $!500, but, I can't find the work order. And that's what they got paid from HD. Probably more if it wasn't warrantee.
    That would be about right when the assign two parts changers for 8 hrs. at shop rates.
    Enjoy life now!----------IT HAS AN EXPERATION DATE

    1989 HARLEY DAVIDSON TOUR GLIDE ULTRA CHAMPION- A WOLF IN SHEEP'S CLOTHING-(CUT YOUR WOLF LOOSE!)


    the difference between a good trike and a bad one depends entirely on the integrity of it's builder!

  9. #8
    100+ Posts grandpawj's Avatar
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    On your Motor Trike, was the belt tension difficult to adjust after installation?

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    Quote Originally Posted by grandpawj View Post
    On your Motor Trike, was the belt tension difficult to adjust after installation?
    Well, it's not something I want to do everyday, but I guess the answer is "yes and no".

    To loosen the unit for adjustment, there are 4 main bolts that are hard to get to. We (my wife and I) worked with wrenches from the top (seat removed) and the bottom (bike was up on stands about 16" off of the floor). One person to hold the bolt head from above, and one underneath (me) to loosen the nuts.

    I had some long-length wrenches, gear wrenches, and regular combination wrenches in play, because each of the 4 bolts required a slightly different attack.

    Then, loosened the bolts on the end of the adjuster cam, rotated the cam till tension is set, then tightened the whole thing up again.

    It is an operation to approach with patience and planning at each step. Not difficult physically, but just matching the tool to the circumstance takes time and forethought. Slow and easy wins the race.

    ED

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    This sounds like at least a 6 pack job (maybe a 12 pack in my younger days) lol. I have done a lot of work on my bikes over the years including top end jobs but I have never replaced a belt on one of my Harleys, much less a trike!

    Congrats on getting it done!

    Sunman

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