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Thread: Need VW type3 DP 1600 heads

  1. #11
    400+ Posts vwbug72501's Avatar
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    Here's a link to the Bentley Manual: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...condition=used

    These are the official VW service manuals. New ones are pricy ($97.00 on one Amazon site ). But hey, it's a shop manual! A few dog earred pages don't matter.

    If you had good oil pressure you might be OK with the bottom end. You can pull the rockers and check for a bent or broken pushrod. You'll probably have to pull the heads to check the valve(s) and possible valve-piston contact damage. If it's just a broke spring, you might get away with inspecting / lapping the valves and replacing the spring. Check the heads for cracks between the valve seats and the spark plug holes. This is a common problem and means new heads. Look at the cylinder to head mating surfaces for signs of blow by. This is common due to loose head studs.

    Looking forward to progress reports.

  2. #12
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    You Folks are the BEST!!!! I really appreciate all the posts, your expertise and humor I'm finding that on CL there is lots of junk or scammers;( This is one of the few places I've found that is responsive and you all seem to have a handle on these things and triking. It seems my next step will be to remove the damaged head then rent or borrow some valve tools to take it apart and see what's really needed... I cannot get to it for a few days however I will keep you posted on my progress. I've noticed on most of the youtube video's I've seen the engine is removed and then taken apart. Because of the way my trike frame has been built, I'm pretty sure I can take the heads and even cylinders off with the engine in the frame which I will try as I do not have a VW engine stand.

    Need to prep my garage so I can do this...

    Thanks again and Happy Holidays!!!!

  3. #13
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    Like I said......these things take a beating.

    I doubt anything you have do so far is what killed it.

    If it is horribly damaged.....it was that way before you tryed a short run.

    First.

    Crankshaft endplay. Harder to see and feel on a type 3 with the fan on the pulley. But is the first thing to know about. Pull and push the end of the crank. New is .003 which you can barely feel. A well used engine you can feel a very discernible click but not really see movement with the naked eye. If it has a large clunk in and out and you can see it move then it is too loose from wear and needs a rebuild of the crank, bearings and very likely machine work to the case. Especially if the seal at flywheel is leaking badly.

    If this feels good then fill the cylinder with heavy string and spin the engine slowly up tight onto it holding that valve shut tight. Pry the retainer keeper out and pry in a replacement spring. Pull the string out and adjust the valves.

    Now do a cranking pressure (compression test). The actual psi don't matter a lot. As long as it is over 100 psi it will run. What you are looking for is a difference. If 3 of the cylinders are 120 psi and one of them is 80.....well you have a serious problem. At this point you can do a leak down test to see if it is rings or head. But either means it comes apart so I skip it and go straight to take apart.

    So assuming these check out. Take the tins off and clean the fins and fan. Check rubber items, intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, rebuild the carb. Put it all back together and get ready for a test run. Clean fuel and filter, points plugs wires. None of which has to be new yet just in a known to be working order.

    Now you are ready for the first test run. Crank it up check oil pressure right away. 10 pounds per 1000rpm. So it is idles at 800 rpm it needs 8 psi. Rev it to 4000 then 40 psi.

    Has oil pressure and don't pour oil? Then take a short drive and see how it pulls/performs.

    If it passes all this.....then you have an engine worth doing a decent repair or rebuild on. New valves and springs and ect....

    And you can go through my build thread and see what the insides look like. But I would not advise you to try and copy any details. To put it lightly....mine is super heavily modified and is purpose build.

  4. #14
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    So the string is fed in the spark plug hole to create a spacer for the piston to push the valve so the retainer can be removed and then the spring without removing the head? I love it!!! that's a very clever trick)) Awesome.

    I think I understand the rest of it.....

    Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  5. #15
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    Heavy string. What we down south call clothes line rope. It is 3/16 To 1/4 in diameter and fairly stiff.

    Pull the rockers first.

    Pull the valve shut. It should be free moving if not bent.

    String in and roll engine tight.

    The next part is tricky. There are "in place" spring compressors.....but they won't fit in the vw head.

    You will have to rig something. It is not that hard to squeeze a stock spring. Rig a fulcrum on the stud. Pry bars. Pickle fork tie rod tool. Drill a hole in something...... whatever will work once.

    And remember that in your case.....this is just so you can continue to test out what you have.

    It does not "fix" your engine. Whatever wear to the other springs, valves, guides. Rings, bearings that is there now...will still be there.

    FB_IMG_1512913025414.jpg

  6. #16
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    Ok, Now I really get it. The String is more to keep the valve from falling into the Cylinder when the spring is removed. I can do this)) "String Theory"



    I do have oil leakage though I'm not sure it's from flywheel but most likely as it's near the junction of the engine and transmission where the most comes out. Maybe about the diameter of a quarter in a few days so I don't know if that would be considered a lot however it is a pain making me use a drip pan....

    I'll first remove the fan housing / belt to try and get a best feel for the crank play......

    Thanks a million!!!

  7. #17
    400+ Posts vwbug72501's Avatar
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    Hey Rocky, watch me pull a string out of my hat!

    bulwinkle.jpg

    Great trick Rex! Easier than building an air compressor / spark plug adapter.

  8. #18
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    Default Will the real TDC please stand up?

    Well I made some progress and now I'm confused as to which mark is indicating TDC. Below are two pic's. The one with NO white mark is pointing the rotor at Number 1 cylinder wire, however 180 around we see a white mark but the rotor is pointing at number 4 cylinder wire? Did someone mark the wrong spot? So far all the references I've found do not show it very clear to me however I bet its the non marked one?

    Also do I have enough removed now to check the crank end play? So far I could not get it to click or clunk shaking or jerking it around the best I could. I've also removed the leaky carbs to either rebuild myself or have them done...

    Thank you so much!!!

    Michael
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #19
    400+ Posts vwbug72501's Avatar
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    The 180 out paint mark was put there by someone for valve adjusting purposes.

    Here's how it works:

    1. Set #1 TDC by turning engine until timing mark lines up with the marker and distributor rotor points to #1. Adjust #1 valves.

    2. Rotate crank counterclockwise 180 degrees until paint mark aligns with the marker and adjust the #2 valves.

    3. Rotate crank counterclockwise 180 degrees until timing mark aligns with the marker and adjust the #3 valves.

    4. Rotate crank counterclockwise 180 degrees until timing mark aligns with the marker and adjust the #4 valves.

    Done.

    As for checking the crank end play, you might have to pull the engine and use a dial indicator on the flywheel to really get a good idea of where you are. I'm not familiar with the Type3 configuration. If you're leaking oil from the bellhousing area you probably have a rear main seal leak and will have to pull the flywheel to fix. That's a whole other can 'o worms requiring a flywheel lock, 36mm 3/4 socket, and a big pipe (whole lot o torque).

  10. #20
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    Oh Thank you so much. I think I do have a dial indicator...... I also noticed the generator has a whistle sound when spun by hand......

    Thanks again!!!!

    Michael

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