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Thread: Need VW type3 DP 1600 heads

  1. #1
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    Default Need VW type3 DP 1600 heads

    Hello my friends,

    Does anyone have some rebuilt heads for sale? I limped home on one cylinder from the Highway Patrol inspection... I did pass and get my license plate or can you refer me to a shop in the San Jose CA area who could rebuild mine...

    Thank you so much!!!

    Michael

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    The type 3 and type 1 are the same engine other than the fan housing and dip stick.

    Decent used parts are hard to find.

    If your heads are truly bad then buy new replacements.

    What is actually wrong with yours?

    Drop a valve?

  3. #3
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    Default Attaching a picture

    I noticed the left exhaust pipe was blowing cold air. I checked for spark and found it on both cylinders but on the right side only spark on the rear cylinder but hot air from exhaust.

    I opened the valve cover on the left and it looked like this:

    IMG_1648.JPG The springs do not look right and you can see the pushrod sitting there;(....

    This is as far as I've gone with it. The right side looks normal yet very dirty like the picture.

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    400+ Posts vwbug72501's Avatar
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    Michael,

    From the looks of your posts though you are new to VWs you aren't afraid to twist a wrench. You've had aluminum engines before so you are aware of the limitations of aluminum and bolt torque specs. Unfortunately, in the VW world, it's not uncommon for an engine to suffer some major or minor catastrophe soon after a new owner takes possession. Can't say what the causes may be but often the "sins" of the PO come home to roost. VWs have a personality that is formed by the way they are driven and cared for. If your driving style is significantly different from the PO, you might have upset its "chi" and karma comes to visit you.

    Seriously though, (1) get your self a good service manual. (Bentley Manual comes to mind) Amazon has them. Also, read Snu's tech post in VW forum.

    2. Check for spark on all cylinders.

    3. run a compression test on all cylinders.

    4. Pop the valve covers and check the valve clearance, rocker arms, and push rods for abnormalities.

    5. Check the head stud torque specs.

    5. If everything checks OK so far, pull the head(s) and look for bad valves, cracked head, hole in piston, etc.

    Just a rough outline/game plan. Report back and we'll help as we can.

    Good Luck!

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    400+ Posts vwbug72501's Avatar
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    Just saw your picture. definitely a valve train problem. Got to go right now. will look tomorrow.

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    I also want to say there was no smoke coming out or strange noises knocks or anything else. My neighbor followed me in his truck and it was not till I heard the video he took that the engine did not sound like it was hitting on all 4. That was on the way to the exam about a 8 mile ride. It seemed mostly ok on the way there. On the way back I could not get up to 50mph and I thought maybe the throttle linkage had come off but it had not...

    I guess almost 50 on one cylinder is not too bad

    Thank you for your insight!!!

    Michael

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    A cold exhaust pipe at the head means that cylinder is not running. Does not mean the head is bad, but a problem with the head is one of the many possibilities.

    In the pic you have a broken exhaust valve spring.

    The push rod came out do to the slack given by the broke spring.

    Do you know what engine it is and/or any history it has had?

    These are easily prone to over heating.

    The air cooled system is easy to foul up. Park it in the shed out back for a winter and mice build a nest in the fan housing.....get it out in the spring and take a ride.....smoked engine. Dogwood trees with the big floating lint balls in the spring.....boom. suck up a wal mart bag in the parking lot....boom.

    So close attention to the fan and cooling is required.

    The heads take a beating from any over heat episode. They run incredibly hot to begin with. So over heating drops seat or makes cracks and burns exhaust valves.

    When you rebuild or even freshen up your heads go ahead and replace the exhaust valves. Check the valve guides closely. They usually only last 70k to 80k miles.

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    Yes I too was thinking valve adjustment and compression test and I do have both a Chilton's and Clymer's shop manuals however over the years I've found those not to be the best manuals so I will look for a better brand.

    However when I popped that valve cover off and see the broken valve and springs I thought what's the point of trying to get an valve adjustment or compression reading when the parts are obviously defective and I did not want to cause any more damage running it like that.

    The history goes like owner A who built the frame etc. had this type 3 motor sitting for many years, his inlaw "the VW mechanic" got it running and said it sounded pretty good. So he built the Trike however before finishing it sold it to owner B who basically played with it for a year or so and decided to move on and so I am owner C.

    Basically no useful history other than we know it was not really loved and cared for thus the "Chi" of the motor has been neglected and since I am an energy worker as well, I know it's Chi is imbalanced and I will smooth it out over time

    It is possible I overheated it as there are no gauges installed yet. I do see a sending unit on top of the motor however unsure what it's for. I'll post a picture later... I was so focused on getting it street legal, I just took the poor motor for granted that it would make a short trip, and it did but I'll always wonder now if I could have avoided this breakage, however from my experience with motors etc this does not look like it just happened, more like it's been this way for some time....

    Thank you both so much for your comments I still have much to learn about the VW.... I did visit a local shop yesterday and was shocked to hear the price of a rebuilt head is $339 each, a bit out of my price range... I also see some on ebay for $159 each from Brazil. It seems parts are from Germany , Mexico, and Brazil, I guess Germany being the preferred one's???

    I'm teaching class today so I'll check back later in the afternoon. May your Chi stay in balance.....

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    Default

    The tech tips offered above and elsewhere on TrikeTalk by Rex, AKA: Death by SnuSnu, (the VW "Guru"), are very informative and interesting.

    Not sure if you've found The Samba yet Michael, so here ya go: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/

    The Samba offers many aftermarket parts sellers, as well as tech articles, forums, & tips for all types of VW powerplants.

    In my unbiased opinion, at the very least it sounds like you might need to do a full on engine takedown/inspection, as the previous owners didn't show your engine much love in the maintenance dept. Also, you probably don't want to spend $600.00+ on new or rebuilt heads only to find out the lower end is in need of "freshening" too.

    Let us know how you make out on your "project"!

  10. #10
    300+ Posts LarryA's Avatar
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    I would pay attention to what Snu said about exhaust valves and guides......the valves only cooling is thru the seat and the guide. change exh valves and your quides. get valves ground and your heads are good to go.....maybe get recut where head meets cylinder. With a little care these engines are dependable powerplants. About 45 yrs ago I bought a 67 vw....some guy said, put in new exh valves, or you will drop a valve,I didn't change valves.....dropped a valve, needed a rebuilt head. A few months later brotherinlaw bought a porche, I said change your exh valves, he didn't, dropped a valve, needed a rebuilt head. We learned the hard way..lol

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