Cruise Control

[rocket1lf]

After doing some digging, I found out why my cruise gave up again. I did the diagnostic test on it, and it didn't work. I guess it won't work on our trikes. I did change the controls on the steering wheel figuring that was it since the test didn't work with the right side controls. It did work with the on/off side. I then jumped the brake deactivation switch under the trike. Everything then worked fine, except the diagnostic test. I took the jumper off and it didn't work again. I have the blue and white switch which I guess is the bad one. Getting a new switch isn't the problem. Does anyone know how to get the switch out of the metal bracket it's in. It looks like it's pretty difficult to get to the screws under it and I can't see how it would come out of the bracket. Any suggestions? Thx Rick

[trike tech]

The blue/white switch is the cruise control cancel switch. If it's defective or out of adjustment the Ford "self test" will not work at all, that switch is the first "check" in that test procedure.

If your cruise isn't working, the first thing to check would be the cruise switch. I always recommend using a multimeter to check the switch with the wire connector unplugged. With the button depressed the two contacts should have continuity, when you press the pedal it should break continuity between the 2 wires. If the switch is working correctly, plug the connector in and do the same check/test @ the wires to make sure the connector itself isn't your problem.

Once you verify the switch is good and or replace it and your cruise still doesn't work, the self test procedure will show the culprit.

As far as removing the switch, if you look closely, there's a relief cut in the bracket so you can bend the tabs back to remove the switch & bend back in place when the new switch is installed.

Hope that helps.

[rocket1lf]

Thanks Richard. The reason I think the switch is bad is because I jumped across the connector and the cruise worked fine. When I hooked the switch back up, I couldn't get it to work again. I didn't see the relief cut. I'll get a switch and try to replace it. Just for info, I tried the self test with the jumper in the connector and it still didn't work with the right side switches. Thx Rick

[trike tech]

The jumper wire works to bypass the switch and is a good way to eliminate it from the circuit entirely.

If you're not getting any response when pressing the buttons on the right side of the wheel within the time frame of the test, they may be the culprit. You can remove them from the steering wheel & check continuity on the back side of the buttons to see if they're working when they're pressed.

[rocket1lf]

They're new switches. The cruise control works fine with the cutout switch bypassed. I'll get a new switch and see if that's the culprit. Thx Rick

[rocket1lf]

It was the cancel switch. I replaced it and the cruise is working again. The tip of it was worn down quite a bit compared to the new one. Just for info, the diagnostic test still doesn't work with the right side switches even though the cruise now works. Rick