Building a heritage softail dna trike...any advice

[JEFFCURTIS]

I am going to build a Heritage Softail or Fatboy trike using a DNA axel.If anyone has experience or advice , It would be very much appreciated...Not running a body....Some questions are

Was there any unexpected problems in assembly ?

Was a rake necessary , if so , what about rake bearings and races ?

Are 14" wheels too small for rear..(rear end height )

Wide or narrow width of rear tires ?

Is there much power reduction after conversion ?

Any other CONSTRUCTIVE advice would be appreciated............Cheers

[Lee H. Mann]

I am going to build a Heritage Softail or Fatboy trike using a DNA axel.If anyone has experience or advice , It would be very much appreciated...Not running a body....Some questions are

Was there any unexpected problems in assembly ?

Was a rake necessary , if so , what about rake bearings and races ?

Are 14" wheels too small for rear..(rear end height )

Wide or narrow width of rear tires ?

Is there much power reduction after conversion ?

Any other CONSTRUCTIVE advice would be appreciated............Cheers

Jeff, without sounding overly regimental, you should try to keep your build in one location and one thread. It makes it easier for yourself in accessing answers to your questions as well as other members trying to give you construction points.

• Was there any unexpected problems in assembly ?
  

Are you doing an EVO or Twin Cam build ?

The two are similar in construction excepting for the swingarm pivot pin passes through a boss on the rear of the transmission for the Twin Cam and need adequate spacers to fill any voids between frame, swingarm and transmission. Did you read what I said about reinforcing the swingarm?

Also now is the time to consider either raising or lowering the rear suspension while you have the shocks disconnected.

• Was a rake necessary , if so , what about rake bearings and races ?
  

If you are doing an EVO, you definitely need 4-5 degree rake to reduce head-shake. If you are doing a standard Heritage and not a Springer, you should find a 5 degree Triple Tree. (should come with bearings)

• Are 14" wheels too small for rear..(rear end height )
  

14" wheels may not clear the disc brake caliper(s). Start with a 15" wheel and a 205/70/15" tire, or a tire with a similar diameter to your stock rear tire. 26-26.5" diameter keeps you speedometer close if the drive is electric (after 1996) This is taking into account you are using the stock pulley diameter too.

• Wide or narrow width of rear tires ?
  

The narrower the tire with proper air pressure (20-22psi) the better the ride. The wider tire and larger footprint pickup more road feel.

• Is there much power reduction after conversion ?
  

You are adding weight to the motorcycle and wind resistance with the outboard tires (fenders). It is usually present above 60mph. You can hide that reduction in changing gearing but I would do that afterwards to see if it is really necessary for you.

• Setting up the rear axle
  

When installing the rear axle, it needs to be centered and level with the motorcycle. Locate axle from sided to side and square with the motorcycle and belt or chain properly adjusted. DNA axle requires welding of the outer pinch blocks once you get to that point. Remove the battery ! Make sure all bolts are tightened to spec and tack weld the pinch blocks. Once tack welded remove the rear axle to do the required welding. Jump from top to bottom and front to back so as not to create a warping of the block and go from side to side (L & R) as to not warp the axle tube as well.

I hope you ordered dual disc brakes for your job ???

[dmillsr3]

I am going to build a Heritage Softail or Fatboy trike using a DNA axel.If anyone has experience or advice , It would be very much appreciated.

Hi Jeff.

Where are you in the process, such as, have you bought the bike yet? Have you bought the DNA axle yet?

I have just completed a conversion of a Electra Glide using the DNA axle. I know very little about the ST or FB, I will not address any detailed issues with those bikes.

On the DNA axle generally:

1. I understand it is built in China. Not necessarily a complete negative, just a fact. It does have a mixture of metric and SAE bolts and nuts. Finding any replacement parts could be a challenge. Even the DNA Specialty website does not list any replacement parts, not even brake pads.

2. The DNA is offered ONLY in 70 tooth pulleys for belt driven models. It appears softtails from various years used anywhere from 61 to 70 tooth pulleys. So to retain stock gearing and power, you need to pair a 70 tooth softtail with the DNA and use tires of same diameter as the stock tires on your bike. You can consider using the softtail with a 68 tooth pulley if you adjust gearing with a different tire size.

3. I (and others with DNA axles) are not impressed with the DNA rear brakes. The brakes will stop the trike, but I think the rotors, calipers and pads are too small. You can't go anywhere that I have found to get bolt-on upgrade. You can maybe design and build your own upgrade, but I have not seen where anyone has done this.

[Lee H. Mann]

Hi Jeff.

Where are you in the process, such as, have you bought the bike yet? Have you bought the DNA axle yet?

I have just completed a conversion of a Electra Glide using the DNA axle. I know very little about the ST or FB, I will not address any detailed issues with those bikes.

On the DNA axle generally:

1. I understand it is built in China. Not necessarily a complete negative, just a fact. It does have a mixture of metric and SAE bolts and nuts. Finding any replacement parts could be a challenge. Even the DNA Specialty website does not list any replacement parts, not even brake pads.

2. The DNA is offered ONLY in 70 tooth pulleys for belt driven models. It appears softtails from various years used anywhere from 61 to 70 tooth pulleys. So to retain stock gearing and power, you need to pair a 70 tooth softtail with the DNA and use tires of same diameter as the stock tires on your bike. You can consider using the softtail with a 68 tooth pulley if you adjust gearing with a different tire size.

3. I (and others with DNA axles) are not impressed with the DNA rear brakes. The brakes will stop the trike, but I think the rotors, calipers and pads are too small. You can't go anywhere that I have found to get bolt-on upgrade. You can maybe design and build your own upgrade, but I have not seen where anyone has done this.

Don, Did you have a chance to get any pictures ??

[JEFFCURTIS]

Hi Jeff.

Where are you in the process, such as, have you bought the bike yet? Have you bought the DNA axle yet?

I have just completed a conversion of a Electra Glide using the DNA axle. I know very little about the ST or FB, I will not address any detailed issues with those bikes.

On the DNA axle generally:

1. I understand it is built in China. Not necessarily a complete negative, just a fact. It does have a mixture of metric and SAE bolts and nuts. Finding any replacement parts could be a challenge. Even the DNA Specialty website does not list any replacement parts, not even brake pads.

2. The DNA is offered ONLY in 70 tooth pulleys for belt driven models. It appears softtails from various years used anywhere from 61 to 70 tooth pulleys. So to retain stock gearing and power, you need to pair a 70 tooth softtail with the DNA and use tires of same diameter as the stock tires on your bike. You can consider using the softtail with a 68 tooth pulley if you adjust gearing with a different tire size.

3. I (and others with DNA axles) are not impressed with the DNA rear brakes. The brakes will stop the trike, but I think the rotors, calipers and pads are too small. You can't go anywhere that I have found to get bolt-on upgrade. You can maybe design and build your own upgrade, but I have not seen where anyone has done this.

Thank you so much...I haven't bought the bike yet nor the axel , I am wintering in Arizona right now , but getting the odds and ends together while down here...trying to get as much info as I can so I'm prepared the project when I get back......if there's anything more you might pass on , I would appreciate it big time.....cheers.....Jeff

[JEFFCURTIS]

Jeff, without sounding overly regimental, you should try to keep your build in one location and one thread. It makes it easier for yourself in accessing answers to your questions as well as other members trying to give you construction points.

• Was there any unexpected problems in assembly ?
  

Are you doing an EVO or Twin Cam build ?

The two are similar in construction excepting for the swingarm pivot pin passes through a boss on the rear of the transmission for the Twin Cam and need adequate spacers to fill any voids between frame, swingarm and transmission. Did you read what I said about reinforcing the swingarm?

Also now is the time to consider either raising or lowering the rear suspension while you have the shocks disconnected.

• Was a rake necessary , if so , what about rake bearings and races ?
  

If you are doing an EVO, you definitely need 4-5 degree rake to reduce head-shake. If you are doing a standard Heritage and not a Springer, you should find a 5 degree Triple Tree. (should come with bearings)

• Are 14" wheels too small for rear..(rear end height )
  

14" wheels may not clear the disc brake caliper(s). Start with a 15" wheel and a 205/70/15" tire, or a tire with a similar diameter to your stock rear tire. 26-26.5" diameter keeps you speedometer close if the drive is electric (after 1996) This is taking into account you are using the stock pulley diameter too.

• Wide or narrow width of rear tires ?
  

The narrower the tire with proper air pressure (20-22psi) the better the ride. The wider tire and larger footprint pickup more road feel.

• Is there much power reduction after conversion ?
  

You are adding weight to the motorcycle and wind resistance with the outboard tires (fenders). It is usually present above 60mph. You can hide that reduction in changing gearing but I would do that afterwards to see if it is really necessary for you.

• Setting up the rear axle
  

When installing the rear axle, it needs to be centered and level with the motorcycle. Locate axle from sided to side and square with the motorcycle and belt or chain properly adjusted. DNA axle requires welding of the outer pinch blocks once you get to that point. Remove the battery ! Make sure all bolts are tightened to spec and tack weld the pinch blocks. Once tack welded remove the rear axle to do the required welding. Jump from top to bottom and front to back so as not to create a warping of the block and go from side to side (L & R) as to not warp the axle tube as well.

I hope you ordered dual disc brakes for your job ???

Thank you very much Jim.......your advice is gold.....I am getting all the info I can while wintering in AZ , I am going with an EVO because I like the engines better , also all the DNA axels come with duel discs now and 70 tooth sprocket for Softails. I will reinforce the swingarm before installation , and I already have the lowering kit if needed.Are the rake bearing kits any good ?any more advice you have is very important to me so if you remember anything , please send it along and thank you very much...Cheers...Jeff

[Lee H. Mann]

Thank you very much Jim.......your advice is gold.....I am getting all the info I can while wintering in AZ , I am going with an EVO because I like the engines better , also all the DNA axels come with duel discs now and 70 tooth sprocket for Softails. I will reinforce the swingarm before installation , and I already have the lowering kit if needed.Are the rake bearing kits any good ?any more advice you have is very important to me so if you remember anything , please send it along and thank you very much...Cheers...Jeff

The rake bearing kit (offset bearing cups) only allow 3 degrees. All the work required and you may not even notice the difference. You can get a 6 degree Tree and know you will feel the difference for.

The Bike you are getting, check the pulley to make sure it is 70 tooth. If it is 65 or 61, you will need to change the belt.

I understand you want to save money, but remember, You might feel good about the money you saved on the project but you might wish you had spent just a little more so that you would feel good with the project's result.

[dmillsr3]

The rake bearing kit (offset bearing cups) only allow 3 degrees. All the work required and you may not even notice the difference. You can get a 6 degree Tree and know you will feel the difference for.

The Bike you are getting, check the pulley to make sure it is 70 tooth. If it is 65 or 61, you will need to change the belt.

I understand you want to save money, but remember, You might feel good about the money you saved on the project but you might wish you had spent just a little more so that you would feel good with the project's result.

I don't know about the softtail DNA swingarm, but with the DNA swingarm on the Electra Glide the stock belt was too small. And the Electra Glide had the 70 tooth pulley to start with.

[Lee H. Mann]

I don't know about the softtail DNA swingarm, but with the DNA swingarm on the Electra Glide the stock belt was too small. And the Electra Glide had the 70 tooth pulley to start with.

Don, How many more teeth did you require in fitting the belt ??

136 to 139 ??

The plates that slip into the pinch blocks should be about 1" from the blocks and should not exceed 1 1/2".