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Thread: Engine Oil warm Enough

  1. #1
    850+ Posts jc1300's Avatar
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    Default Engine Oil warm Enough

    Sitting last night complaining about a three hole fluid change I'm about to do....I said I let the bike idle for about 4-5 minutes and start the process. The Two guys I'm drinking with are telling me I can't do that....Gotta get it out for more time....really get it hot and shook up. I said the Oil doesn't know I didn't take it for it's last ride! They didn't think that was funny.....Anybody take the bike out for a ride before an oil change?

  2. #2
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    Yes and no

    AS long as BOTH rocker boxes are warm and I mean warm to the touch you should be warm enough

    Riding it if an option would be better Forcing air thru the engine would give it a bit more time to warm up to operating temps

    I have done it both ways, they both will work fine

    If you get nervous about idling your bike you can use as small box fan blowing whilst you have a smoke or a cup of java
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  3. #3
    Official Mascot Trail Blazer's Avatar
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    Default engine oil warm enough

    hi, this is my thoughts on the subject. Motorcycle, car, lawn mower any engine. I let it run, or Idle until the temp. gage get to normal temp or close to it. cut it off and drain oil. you can ride it for a few mins. or let it Idle. the oil will be hot and will have circulated sufficiently

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    Default

    This was confirmed to me several years ago my the then service manager at my local dealership. When you drop off your bike for service unless you are fortunate enough to have a 'wait for it' appointment the bike's going to sit - probably for several hours if not overnight. And the techs don't get paid to ride your bike to warm up the fluids. They just ride it onto the rack and let it drain . . . in most cases it will be at room temperature.

    I too used to ride the bike to get everything up to normal operating temp before draining fluids. But then you gotta wait for things like the derby cover and the oil filter to cool enough to remove. Lately I just let it drain until it stops dripping. Heck you aren't going to get every last drop out anyway. Honestly I simply do not think it makes any difference. Just my opinion. Others may (and most likely will) disagree.

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    Default

    The little bit of difference in the amount of oil you get out is very small. Warming it up a little just lets it flow out slightly quicker.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

  6. DKCustoms postbit
  7. #6
    2000+ Posts Burnerboy's Avatar
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    Default

    With the multi grade(s) oil out today ("think about now") the hotter the oil gets, the actual *thicker* it gets, so by letting it warm up, aren't we really making the oil thicker, instead of thinner??

    Flame suit on now (but *think* about it before you scream at me...lol

    Right: Say you have 10-40 wt. oil in bike/car, when it's cold before starting, it's thin, but as it gets warmer doesn't it thicken up??

    Bet you never thought about it, "that way" did you??

    Ronnie

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    Quote Originally Posted by Burnerboy View Post
    With the multi grade(s) oil out today ("think about now") the hotter the oil gets, the actual *thicker* it gets, so by letting it warm up, aren't we really making the oil thicker, instead of thinner??

    Flame suit on now (but *think* about it before you scream at me...lol

    Right: Say you have 10-40 wt. oil in bike/car, when it's cold before starting, it's thin, but as it gets warmer doesn't it thicken up??

    Bet you never thought about it, "that way" did you??

    Ronnie
    My understanding is no

    Multi Weight oil can lubricate @ the high end when hot

    Say the 20-50

    When hot the oil has the lube properties of a 50 weight but it really is not a true 50 @ that time

    That said, I am old fashioned

    I was that when the oil was warmed up to operating temperature more of the sludge and dirt had been suspended in the oil

    That way it is NOT laying in oil galleries or the bottom of the crank case JMO

    I guess if we ALL were a bit smarter we would use this

    https://roguechopper.com/

    Sure hope this does not get ugly like oil threads tend to

    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  9. #8
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    Default

    I use that Scavenger when changing oil. They say that if you just drain the pan, you don't get all the dirty oil out of it. Some is still in the crankcase.

    Since the OE oil filter is on the front of motor, you make the mess twice because you take off the filter, then do it again when removing the scavenger puck. I've never had much luck with those special funnels.



    Good reason to get the remote oil filter mount from Kevin at DK. No more mess. You screw the puck onto the remote filter base.

    Yes it takes a little longer to do your oil change using the Scavenger, but that's just more quality time wrenching on your toy, and not doing honeydo chores...

  10. #9
    850+ Posts jc1300's Avatar
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    Default

    Wow......So.....Taking the Oil for a ride isn't necessary as long as you've been good to it and said your goodbye in a sincere way.....Got it. I did it like I always have. Five minute idle ~ all three in under an hour. But I am now a bit more confused! lol

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