Bars as in handle

[Ed H]

Who has changed their handle bars over?

How much of a job is it to do?

I need more pull back, after about two hours my neck is killing me. Had that problem on the Ultra, HD dealer changed them with factory pull back's.

I emailed Chubby bars , this is their reply.

Perfect bar for this would be the WO579 Bagger Low: http://wild1inc.com/579Bjh.html

We don't have any photos on a tri-glide but these would allow you to turn without actually having to lift off the seat. LOL

The fit with stock brake as well as clutch

[1dn5up]

Remove batwing , remove radio , that’s to get access to DBW throttle wiring and heated grip for left side, plus accessibility to the mount. remove all the stuff on left handlebar , brake on the right, take a pix of wiring on DBW conector Be fore disassembling, reinstall DBW wires in new bars and reassemble wire connector, after mounting new bars sit on bike and set new one to your liking, turn bars lock to lock and make sure they don’t hit the fuel tank. Tighten the 4 mount bolts. Reassemble all the crap you took off. Note that the clutch cable , if ya got one, might not fit if you want it back in thru the fairing, I relocated mine outside the fairing. Also if you don’t have heated slip on grips, you will need new ones as you will destroy the old one on the left side in the removal process.

Whew, that was easy, just very time consuming, about a 4 packs worth. Good luck. ��

Forgot to mention, Krome Works 2x2 full sweepers was my choice. 2” pullbacks.

[ultrafxr]

Who has changed their handle bars over?

How much of a job is it to do?

I need more pull back, after about two hours my neck is killing me. Had that problem on the Ultra, HD dealer changed them with factory pull back's.

I emailed Chubby bars , this is their reply.

Perfect bar for this would be the WO579 Bagger Low: http://wild1inc.com/579Bjh.html

We don't have any photos on a tri-glide but these would allow you to turn without actually having to lift off the seat. LOL

The fit with stock brake as well as clutch

I had the WO575s on my 2007 CVO Ultra and also on my 2012 CVO Ultra. The 579s are 1 1/2" shorter and have 3" more pull back. I really, really liked the 575s and I'm thinking the 579s might be even better with the additional pullback. I really liked the additional width which gave additional leverage when pushing the handlebars - even more important on a trike than a two wheeler.

I didn't not install the 575s but did help a friend with an install on his CVO Roadglide a couple years ago. Not horrifically

difficult but tedious and time consuming the first time around for sure.

Like you I would like more pullback on the bars. May have to look into a change myself.

[Fearless]

First I would not attempt it with out shop manual, Depending on year cable clutch or Hyd. not bad to do just time consuming. If you have a cable clutch and need to change cables remember Mufflers headpipe tranny cover. Batwing will come off just cover. Radio comes out and possible reroute a few connectors. I did mine 4 years ago no problems. Good luck on your decision.

[Mykneesbehurtin]

On my 2012 Road Glide i had to remove ign switch,is this required on the late model bat wing.I have a 17 trike.

[milemaker]

2012 Trigldie. I just had this done a week ago. I got the Khrome Werks 300515A bars when they were on sale on the Khrome Werks site for 10% off.

I did the change over on the Road King I had a few years ago but didn't want to go through taking off the fairing.

I took them to my favorite indy to install them. of course I had the indy get the new grips and progressive front fork springs and run extra electrical hookups for GPS in the fairing also. All of this cost $650 to have done and I bought the handlebars on black Friday. The 300515A bars are +2. They are not the 2 + 2 bars. I didn't need 2" higher but I did need the 2" pull back. I get the neck pain too. The clutch cable had to be re-routed also with these bars.

Its all done now though and I'm ready for spring.

Sam

[Fearless]

First I would not attempt it with out shop manual, Depending on year cable clutch or Hyd. not bad to do just time consuming. If you have a cable clutch and need to change cables remember Mufflers headpipe tranny cover. Batwing will come off just cover. Radio comes out and possible reroute a few connectors. I did mine 4 years ago no problems. Good luck on your decision.

Khrome Werks 300517A Work great for me really helped with back and shoulder pain 5'8" tall short arms.

[Ed H]

Thanks guys, I do have a shop manual but not for a trike. I have the 2012 touring manual from my Ultra.

Not sure on the ing switch either, will have to check that out.

Ed

[MB1953]

Thanks guys, I do have a shop manual but not for a trike. I have the 2012 touring manual from my Ultra.

Not sure on the ing switch either, will have to check that out.

Ed

You didn't say (or I missed it) what year your trike is, but the touring manual for the same year is the main manual for the trike; most everything from the seat forward is the same. The trike stuff is covered by the Trike Supplement.

[Fearless]

Thanks guys, I do have a shop manual but not for a trike. I have the 2012 touring manual from my Ultra.

Not sure on the ing switch either, will have to check that out.

Ed

The Ignition switch has a button to push up from underneath it is in the manual for removal step by step. A torque wrench and ball end allen wrenches to get radio out those are a must have. Flex head ratch box end for the muffler bolts on rear of mufflers. Good luck any problems just post. Fred

P.S. the 2+2 wide sweepers gave me much better posture and ended my back and shoulder misery.

[DK Custom Products]

Who has changed their handle bars over?

How much of a job is it to do?

I need more pull back, after about two hours my neck is killing me. Had that problem on the Ultra, HD dealer changed them with factory pull back's.

I emailed Chubby bars , this is their reply.

Perfect bar for this would be the WO579 Bagger Low: http://wild1inc.com/579Bjh.html

We don't have any photos on a tri-glide but these would allow you to turn without actually having to lift off the seat. LOL

The fit with stock brake as well as clutch

BEFORE you go to the work or expense of changing the bars...MAKE Sure you do it with some bars that are not just better...but the BEST for your comfort.

It is really easy to know which bars are best for you, without spending a penny. (what is best for me, or 10 others, may not be best for you.

At this LINK are 3 easy steps you can take, in 5 minutes, to find out.

Or, if you don't want to go to the link, here's the meat of it-

Get your handlebar grips in the

Most Comfortable Position for YOU.



This varies widely, person to person and bike to bike.

Having the right or wrong handlebar position can make all the difference between a really comfortable ride, or shoulder, neck, arm or wrists that start hurting after riding a few hours.



Finding the perfect handlebar position for You can make all the difference!

This is a tried & true way to find the most comfortable handlebar position-

• Sit on your bike
  
• Have someone hold it up straight for you
  
• Put your feet on the pegs
  
• Close your eyes
  
• Put your hands out to where it is most comfortable to hold them
  
• Open your eyes...where ever your hands are, that is where you want the handlebar grips to be
  

With this information you can adjust your existing handlebars or visit a trusted vendor to get some bars that put the grips where You need them for max comfort.

Can't tell you how many HUNDREDS of folks I've seen spend time and effort on replacing their bars, only to find out that they had to do it all over again.

Kevin

[leonard]

I have the chubby wo578 on my 2018 had them on my 2014 both trikes. They are very comfortable and not that hard to install they are a 10 inch

[Firewrench22]

I did these, Yaffe 10" Monkey Bars. Could use a bit more pull-back, but hey, they look good. They are fairly wide, 37", so they give good leverage. That's important for those of us on trikes...

I set aside a weekend when the wife was working, spent a couple days on the project. I did the internal wiring, got the extension kit for it. The OE upper front brake line was long enough, didn't have to change it. The longer clutch cable is maybe an inch or 2 too long, now it goes "under" the frame on the right side, instead of between frame and motor. It looks fine, not way too long or hanging way down.

[Ed H]

You didn't say (or I missed it) what year your trike is, but the touring manual for the same year is the main manual for the trike; most everything from the seat forward is the same. The trike stuff is covered by the Trike Supplement.

My trike is a 16, I got it as a left over late fall of 17.

Got a whooping 800 miles on it.

That will change tho, planning a trip to Ten this summer.

[ultrafxr]

I too am planning a swap - probably to the WO579 Chubby Bagger Low which according to Wild1 is similar to the WO575 which will not fit the Rushmore fairing. I had the 575s on my '07 and also on my '12 and really liked them so I think I'll like the 579s also. Another option may be their WO578 Chubby 10" Bagger Ape. I'm not a big ape fan but these are pretty mild. Friend has them on this Road Glide so I my visit him and check them out.

When I did the installs on my '07, '12 and also my friend's Road Glide I swapped the oem riser bushing for the Polyurethane Handlebar Riser Bushings, 56298-03A. These are firmer than the rubber oem bushings and have a more solid feel which I like.

But the H-D website says "Does not fit Trike models." I'm trying to understand why that would be. As far as I can tell this portion of the Trike is the same as the non-Trike models - with the exception of the steering damper. But I cannot see why the exclusion. Anyone know? Thanks!

[HDB0B]

Install instructions = https://www.hdforums.com/forum/new-r...s-install.html

Bob

[bigfish_Oh]

I have 14" Klip Hangers(460./369.), not much fun to install, a little adjustments possible and I have only saw a few others.

[hocnsoc]

I watched a couple handlebar videos on Utube and after reading from others on this forum, I decided this might be fun. Went with LA Choppers 12 x 1-1/4 Twin Peaks bars, Alloy Art HD-2 bushings and Namz 8" CAN wire extensions #486359. The extensions make it much easier to connect back up. It takes patience and some weed eater cord to pursuade the wires through the bars with some lube but you will get there. My cost was $302. Found the bars $30. cheaper after doing mine but that may not have included shipping. Don't get caught up in how long it takes others, just take the time you need to do it right. I am 5'10" with 33" sleeve and these bars were perfect for my riding posture.

[ultrafxr]

You guys inspired me to take the plunge and change my stock bars. Now I'm not a big guy but not tiny either - 5' 8" with a 33" sleeve length. But I found that even with the backrest as far forward as possible I still had to reach a bit to grip the stock bars. Not much but enough to be uncomfortable after a while.

Now on my '07 and my '12 CVO Ultras I had the Wild One Chubby 575s installed and really liked them. Pulled back a bit and wider than stock and I really like that 1 1/4" diameter . . . it just looks so good on the bike. The 575s won't fit the Rushmore fairing I learned but they redesigned it into a new model - 579 Bagger Low which they said would be comparable to the 575. So I took the plunge and scored them on Amazom for $211.

While I was at it I installed H-D heated grips. And oh yeah, I got a new Mustang heated seat. So I should be all set for any cold weather we encounter out west in the mountains this summer.

[Fearless]

You guys inspired me to take the plunge and change my stock bars. Now I'm not a big guy but not tiny either - 5' 8" with a 33" sleeve length. But I found that even with the backrest as far forward as possible I still had to reach a bit to grip the stock bars. Not much but enough to be uncomfortable after a while.

Now on my '07 and my '12 CVO Ultras I had the Wild One Chubby 575s installed and really liked them. Pulled back a bit and wider than stock and I really like that 1 1/4" diameter . . . it just looks so good on the bike. The 575s won't fit the Rushmore fairing I learned but they redesigned it into a new model - 579 Bagger Low which they said would be comparable to the 575. So I took the plunge and scored them on Amazom for $211.

While I was at it I installed H-D heated grips. And oh yeah, I got a new Mustang heated seat. So I should be all set for any cold weather we encounter out west in the mountains this summer.

Please get us a few pictures of these new bars and seat... we like pictures set camera on VGA... Fred