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Thread: Advice on goldwing clutch master cylinder needed

  1. #21
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    Smile THANK YOU

    I really believed the rebuilt master should have functioned. I did not see any reason why it would not. ive been having the same no pressure problem with the front brake and there is no reason why it would not work except it's dry too.

    it's currently off the bike and in the house I put it together and put water in the resivore then tapped out the bubble as instructed to do. suddenly while holding my finger over the line hole water was squirting from under my finger and there was suction on releasing the lever. so I do believe im going to put it back on, get the bubbles out pump it up and bleed it just to see that it will work before I order a new one.

    I got to reading my service manual a little more indepth, it says to pump the lever while bleeding with a bleeder until fluid comes out with out bubbles. I had a feeling on that one.

    yes I took it apart and dried all the water out, I will reassemble in morning.

    it's seems I have learned a step I was not aware of. the piston cylinder must have fluid in it to flow. I must get the air out or nothing will flow.

    thank you sir you may have saved me a lot of money I may not have to spend right now.

  2. #22
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Just a suggestion... You might fill that brake reservoir with actual brake fluid and flush that water out completely. You DO NOT want any moisture in your brake system.

    Glad you are on the road to being on the road!!
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by triwinggirl View Post
    I really believed the rebuilt master should have functioned. I did not see any reason why it would not. ive been having the same no pressure problem with the front brake and there is no reason why it would not work except it's dry too.

    it's currently off the bike and in the house I put it together and put water in the resivore then tapped out the bubble as instructed to do. suddenly while holding my finger over the line hole water was squirting from under my finger and there was suction on releasing the lever. so I do believe im going to put it back on, get the bubbles out pump it up and bleed it just to see that it will work before I order a new one.

    I got to reading my service manual a little more indepth, it says to pump the lever while bleeding with a bleeder until fluid comes out with out bubbles. I had a feeling on that one.

    yes I took it apart and dried all the water out, I will reassemble in morning.

    it's seems I have learned a step I was not aware of. the piston cylinder must have fluid in it to flow. I must get the air out or nothing will flow.

    thank you sir you may have saved me a lot of money I may not have to spend right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gold Rush View Post
    Just a suggestion... You might fill that brake reservoir with actual brake fluid and flush that water out completely. You DO NOT want any moisture in your brake system.

    Glad you are on the road to being on the road!!
    # 2 on the moisture

    Before you put the master back on,

    clamp it in a vise

    Fill the resivour , stroke the cylinder slowly, cover the brake line hole on the return stroke til straight fluid come out This is called bench bleeding

    It will remove the trapped air in the master cylinder bore

    You should have pressure thru the line when you install it now
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  4. #24
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    Smile i got it i think for now

    im sure its dry inside I took it apart last night a dried all the parts, it laid on my table all night open.

    like I said I intent to proceed as told. 1 tap out air in the pump, 2 pump up the cylinder, 3 strap down the lever, then bleed the line with my bleed while slowly pumping the lever until fluid flow clear with no bubbles out the bleeder 4 tighten the bleeder and try the clutch.

    I thank you for helping me with procedures. my friends wont correct me or tell me how to do something im having trouble with. im grateful for those here that will help a broken lady remember and relearn when needed.

    hoping the next post says yeeee haaaa they work.

  5. #25
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    Smile good and bad and good news

    I GOT FRONT BRAKES YYYEEEE HHHAAAA

    the front brakes bled fast the lever firmed up nice. the clutch took longer and did not seem to want to pressurize.

    im going to replace both the clutch slave and clutch master. this issue should be fixed then. somewhere it was bleeding pressure and sucking air. I assume it was sucking at the slave and bleeding pressure at the master. I gave it a good try to fix parts I hoped were repairable.

    the new clutch line is in place, neither the slave or master replacement will prevent me putting the body on, well most of it anyway except a couple front pieces.

    we are doing the rear brakes tomorrow. don't expect any un repairable leaks.

    thank you for the help here I do now know how and have bled lines with my bleeder.

    this is it for this thread no more reason to continue here. please continue to follow my other thread for continued progress that will go quick now.

  6. #26
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    My mission in life is not merely to survive, but to thrive; and to do so with some passion, some compassion, some humor, and some style. – Maya Angelou

  7. #27
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    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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