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Thread: My Trike

  1. #21
    200+ Posts Rmitchell55's Avatar
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    A tank hanging down that low with no protection is just asking for some type of road hazard to go through the bottom.
    Ray
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rmitchell55 View Post
    A tank hanging down that low with no protection is just asking for some type of road hazard to go through the bottom.
    ^....This 100%.

    Especially in thin wall Aluminum construction!!!!
    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA, our flag and our culture offend so many people...but our benefits don't???

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    Meh.....

    Ever look at how low some gas tanks are in cars?

    I do like your design more than that under the torsion beam possum tank. Maybe some skid plate under it.

    Heck....my drain plug is 3-1/2 inches off the ground.

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    Yes, I do agree the idea of the tank in that position is questionable, but there is no real place for it. I could get small fuel cells and locate them in a few tight areas, have to join them together, but still not much total volume that way. Looked at the idea of just putting a tank in the old area, but again not what I liked and wanted.

    Yes, I wanted more capacity to go on longer rides. Some get to ride where gas stations are close, in NV you can go for many miles before you see fuel again. Not that I am superman and can ride that long, we all need to stretch the legs, use the head, and just get our land legs back under ourselves.

    So what material am I using for the skid plate, not sure yet, kind a thought that steel diamond plate might be good, but yes, FOR SURE, that tank location requires a skip plate. Thought I would make the skid plate come out wider so that it created a platform on each side, and than I wonder about a bit of windshield down low. Front tire throw off needs to be deflected, so that has crossed my mind. First things first, need to have the tank welded together, if all fits correctly, than the skid plate as in my mind this would be used to also help support the tank and not just all the weight be on the upper mounting supports. I thought of a swing plate, hinged or pinned at the front by the forks, and than one on each side back near the torsion bars. Pull the rear pins and the skid plate swings down, pull the front pin and the skid plate is total out of the way, Stupid idea, or should all be welded solid to frame of trike so that max strength and protection is provided.

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    I do agree it would not take much to be on the road again, but I do want to be riding a solid ride, not my "may it work" or " it will get me by for now" type of trike. I spent years chasing the wallet trying to just keep a car working for the family. I am a bit tired of that work, even thou I find myself doing it all the time, but no need for it now.

    I am not rich, who is, but I can afford to do it up right. Yes, if that is the case why not just buy a running trike ?

    I have thought about it hard. So many nice looking unit's out there. All look so nice and the test rides were enjoyable. I just seem to have more of a desire to have this toy that requires my time and mind so all get's together nicely.

    Okay I spent 1K for the tike 3 years ago, yes I worked slow at first, new home and wife has a crazy to do list, but have gotten of 3/4 of it done, so now I have my time for what I want, kinda, LOL

    Any favorite part houses online that members use or brand name replacement parts. I know there is cheap VW parts and stuff, and if I am going to do this, well do it right or just go home. Something my dad used to always say to me.

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    I also like to have something I have a vested interest in. Something that is mine alone.

    Ok. as for me I have a bit different of a style than most and I also don't mind making something from scratch. I also forget that everyone don't have free reign of a full metal working shop.

    But what I would do....

    Tank

    Build a sub frame carriage that holds the tank and serves as the under protection. Then lift that up and bolt it to the frame. I envision round tube in a double down tube design that looks a lot like a motorcycle frame front section. Square blocks of drilled tapped steel (nut plates) for the attachment that weld to the frame.

    I am not trying to tell you to do it this way, just throwing out ides. You seem like the type that is going to collect ideas and make your own decision.

    Brakes

    First off drums do work. Good drums. Quality shoes. Larger front wheels cylinders adapted into the back. Correctly sized pedal length/ratio and master cyl bore diameter.

    And you can come to a screeching stop anytime you please.

    Disc main upgrade is fade. If you are going to haul it down from high speed or stop a trailer then a they are a big plus. Secondly they are easier to work on, you don't have to take that big nut off to change pads.

    If you change to disc you MIGHT have to change master also. It depends on what is on it now.

    As a side note.....you can get and/or make different bolt patterns for the wheels......no adapters.

    I like disc, and I use the "no parking brake" type. they are the front type caliper with larger bore and have more force than the ones meant for the rear.

    Remember on the original car the front to rear bias was something like 80/20 with the front doing most of the braking. the trike is more like 10/90 with the rear doing almost all the braking. the front brake on a rear engine and light front end trike does not do much at all. but is a legal requirement in a lot of states. Check you local laws.

  7. #27
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    A lot of great ideas, and it is a matter of what I can do and afford to do, plus you are correct " I do seem to do what I want or like ", but age has taught me to be open to others and what they have to say. My mind can get tunnel vision and take me off in a way that is not beneficial.

    I do like your idea, not sure of all the terms, but do have a visual idea. It was something I drew out, than went to the hinge idea, and so on. Bolting it up into position has still been my favorite idea, plus I want to build something and weld it together, like you said, so I can see what I did with my hands and effort. Yes I do love this part, as I got into making wood flutes so that I could use my hands and what artistic talent I have. Part is wood working, part is sculpturing the head piece, like carving out animals the most.

    Okay the plans are getting together, but where do I start ?

    I feel the rear end getting rebuilt with new rubbers should be first. ( I already rebuilt the rear brakes, no miles on them yet, and I put in a new master cylinder, upgraded it a bit to a non leaking reservoir design.)

    So not that I thought about it, but braking ratio of the car design to a trike, I see that difference, and now wonder if that was considered when it was built. As far as I know it was just a stock VW master cylinder. I was told by the old Napa store owner that I had a Super Beetle rear end, at least my brakes. I asked why he knew, and he told me about he younger years of owning a few of them. It had the wrong size shoes on it when I got it, so now I think I screwed up.............

    From what you are saying, the front shoes would be a little wider and maybe longer a little ? at least wider correct?

    When I took it apart it had some shim's involved pushing the drum outward more, dah, to allow wider shoes, and my mind said it was done to make what they had work, not the proper shoes, so I found what was suppose to be on there, and so yes I had to remove the shim's so went back together correctly...see what happens when you really do not know all that you think you do.

    need to run for now. Thank you for the valuable input, it is needed for sure.

    I am stuck on this, I keep thinking for all to run correctly as designed, the engine is suppose to set level.

    I mean looking at the seam of the top plate of the carburetor, should this not be level, or take the air breather off and set a level across the top of the carb. ? and to do this the rear end needs to be a bit lower so that the front forks will be to long, nor the front end lifted to high to achieve the level engine.......am I being over critical ?

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    As far as the rear brakes....

    If you got shoes that fit the drums proper then you did not mess up. Do not put front SHOES on the rear.

    As the only mechanical difference in a super beetle and a standard is the strut front suspension (struts vs torsions).

    A super sure does drive/handle better and has the best FRONT brakes ever put on a beetle (larger wheel CYLINDER).

    If you wanted larger than beetle rear drums....then type 3 wagon drums.

    It has been ages for me.....so old memories here. Get a set of super beetle front brake CYLINDERS and put them on the back.

    They are not a direct bolt on. What I remember is slotting the bolt holes, stretching the brake line bends, and the cylinder being upside down and more difficult to bleed.

    BUT a huge increase of force applied to the shoe.

  9. #29
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    As far as levelness.....

    Rear axles level or near level between cv joints. Zero Camber with level axles. It is going to camber a small amount in and out as the suspension goes up and down across level. This is not a wishbone like a corvette so it does have geometry changes but nothing drastic like a swing axle.

    Toe zero to ever so slightly toed in, never toed out. Toed in a little helps with it wanting to go straight. I like mine at zero toe.

    Then if the engine is far from level then it would be front end up and down to level the engine. They are quite forgiving and do not have to be dead level. Pulley end high is better than pulley end low.

  10. #30
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    Okay, I will get the new bushing's installed on the spring plate and arms. Never bought a bug book, so will have to look it up, but after I get that done and new wheel axle bearings, than I will get the axle set and the spring plates adjusted right, and we will see how that works and how the trike sets. I will run the brakes I have until I have nothing to do and that is what I am working on, not a must item yet, just when I want to stop, right?

    What I read and was told, basically there was to be marks on the spring plate that aligned with the mark on the wheel arm mounting bracket. I did not find any on the right side, but tire wear shows it was near 0 toe in and 0 camber, yet the left tire shows inner edge wear. Major camber issue, or Toe in was to much in, and ones eyes said it had to much toe in on it. Now the left side has alignment marks, notch on spring plate, and weld beads on the when arm mounting plate. So many would think to align the notch and bead when putting back together.

    Big question, can I check and set my Toe in on the rear tires in my garage ? I thought about this, and all I thought of was chalking out a large T square on the floor, roll the trike rear end over the head of the T align the wheel axle to the line, put the front tire's center line on the leg line of the T. Now if the rear is really out of align I might have one axle over the line and the other side off, forward of the line for severe toe in, behind the line would be negative toe in, dead on the line should be zeroed in.

    If we are thinking about tracking of the tires, than shouldn't a Trike be aligned ?

    Or do we go to a tire shop and see if they can align it ? I do have an older shop in town that I think might be able to do it, only because I see VW's and buggies in the yard.

    Camber, I was just putting the level up against the side of the tire, or the framing square, looking at gap or how close to level it was. Right this moment the right side is level, zero camber, or very slight positive, but my torsion bar is set strong, not the ideal position from what I have learned, but I will get it right eventually.

    Time to get some yard work done, take care and ride safe everyone.

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