yes, that does look nice, still might need it of all goes wrong for me.
I have to much time on my hands at times, so not a problem and I need to see what I could do, first time for this work.
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yes, that does look nice, still might need it of all goes wrong for me.
I have to much time on my hands at times, so not a problem and I need to see what I could do, first time for this work.
My two orders came early, so I installed a 6pin wire connector (male and female), so body harness can just unplug from main frame harness.
The new set of Triple Tree's are a bit larger than I expected, but so far all does look like there is room for them to move freely with in the body. Wider front forks means a bit wider tire and rim which means a new fender maybe so all looks right. The main stem is 1" x 8" long on the new set and the old set stem was 3/4" x 9 1/8" long. The extra 1 1/8" was at the top with washers pushing the top tree that extra distance, not sure how all will sit and look right now, but keeping my fingers crossed that all will work out for me.
update
So I got to excited and missed the days the shop would be closed, guess it was all last week, so I do not get my extentsion piece until Monday, but I had weeds to pull and some home repairs to take care of so at least when I do get the parts I will have the time to do the work. I found out my daughters boy friend works automotive and has the equipment for bending my backbone, maybe I will have to transport it to his shop, but as long as I can get all done correctly I will be a happy camper.
Summer heat is on here in NV, hope are all keeping cool and can enjoy their rides.
I am getting closer, kinda, LOL.
I got the new extension piece back from the machinist, had to do some work on the inside of the backbone tube so it would slide down inside. Just grinding and sanding of old welding spot were they plugged a hole they made so they could fill the backbone with buck shot.
See the welded on mount tap on the top of the backbone, it slides in just past the end of that tab. Kinda a flat spot on the inside and it is hard getting back that far to smooth out. But I can get it to go in far enough that I only have about a 3/16 inch, or less now, before it is all the way in, think leaving a 5/32 inch distance exposed would help secure a good weld ?
I did not push all the way in, as it gets sticky and is hard getting out without some lubricant used.
Are you asking about weld procedures?
If you want/need a 100% full penetration weld then yes you need to have a gap and do a root pass, then as many stringers as needed to fill the scarf and then a cap weld.
A weld should be all the way through. Unless it is thin it will take more than one pass to get there.
If you do not gap and root the weld it will not be full strength of the base metal. Of course lots of things do not need to be a 100% weld. But I would say a major structural component like that definitely does need it.
Yes, that is what I was talking/thinking about, a 100% weld (as close as it can get ), for the extension piece to backbone. And of course we want the best weld we can get for the neck tube to backbone. The machined area for the neck is spot on and tight, but if I use the 2 1/4" dia. HD neck it gives me 1/32" inch clearance on each side so that a root weld can be obtained, but first I do have to grind a bit of an angle to the edge.Okay answered my question, MC bracket has to come off, not a bad thing really, I had just left it as a reference point.Still trying to get a hold of this ( known welder) to do the work, but no luck yet, than I met others and they all "I weld my own trike together" I talk about what I am doing, well all sounds good and should work, I just do not feel confident about welding this, and all I get back is "it is just a matter of getting all cleaned and ready to be welded, use the right material for the job, keep the feed steady and all will be fine". I am just being a pussy "so I am told", but what I heard the most " I do not trust others to do my welding" yet these guys who said this are self taught welders. I will get it figured out, need to get the neck set and done so I can get my forks figured out and made.Never would have gotten this far with out TrikeTalk and the members here. Well maybe eventually, but I am so pleased with help and ideas along with all feedback good or bad.
the most critical weld that I see is that area that is under the neck tube, looking at the right side of the last picture.
that weld will be trying to pull apart under load. the sides of the neck tube will be important also.
the weld on top will do very little, except then the fork is off the ground.
Unfortunatly the top weld is the easiest one to make!.....my suggestion would be to rotate the neck so all welds are done in normal position, do the neck weld first, then slide the assembly into the frame tube and weld it last...that weld will not be that critical in my estimation.
You and others may have different/better procedure than I.......just my .02
Lots of welders like to brag about their skills, but give them a critical job, and they get real quiet, real fast
That is so true Larry, thank you for the advice, was were my mind was.
I have been getting prep work done. Insert piece will slide in and at what distance I want now and got a bevel edge to the backbone tube. She is ready for welding.
I have thought about this, and I to would like the neck tube welded to the insert first, for all the same reasons you stated Larry.
Just waiting to see how this works out, do I find a welder who will do it, or do I just practice up and do it myself ( give it my best try) Thank you all so much for the help and advice.
Think about this. Those welds hold up the whole front end of your trike. Probably not a place for amateur welds when you're going down the road at highway speeds.Originally Posted by grandpanystrom61
do I find a welder who will do it, or do I just practice up and do it myself ( give it my best try) Thank you all so much for the help and advice.
Some feedback is needed.
The neck tube does not have the bearing races pressed in yet, so does one weld the neck tube in place and than press the bearing races in?
Or do we press the bearing races in the neck tube and than weld it into place.
Which is easier, pressing them into the neck tube before welding things, or weld the neck tube to the extension piece, than press the races into position, and than weld the extension piece onto the backbone. I think I just found the steps to follow.
I would install the races after welding the neck to the extension piece. It will be easy to handle when installing races. Then you can keep the neck somewhat cool i.e." wet rags"etc. when you weld the extension to the backbone. my .02
I just realized I can lift up the backbone, block with jack stand, which increase the room under the neck area, so I can put the races in after all is welded.
Just was looking at it with a closed mind, as I have it setting at the desired ride height, which the bottom of the neck is only 23" off the ground, kind of tight for me.
Just the same I think LarryA's method works well. They claim they are suppose to be pressed into the neck tube, or do the set with a hammer and race set tool?
I had to see what I was looking at, so a little mock up pic.
a closer look at the trees.
I spent some time trying to get an idea of things, but need to get shit welded so it stops shifting on me. I mainly wanted to see if I could use the 18" rim/wheel instead of the original 16". Now if the drop pivot rocker makes it feel like power steering, would the wider 3" rim be a better match than a 2.5" ? The width between the fork tubes is 5 1/2" and the axle length between tubes will be near 7", so the wider tire would look and ride fine ?
Now I am not set up to build a set of springers, so if that is the style I want I will have to get them made, but when I drew things up I drew in a shock off the rocker arm to the fork tube. Using a 5" drop pivot design rocker arm a nice triangular shape is formed. I will see if I can a pic of the drawing up.
Sometimes you can squeeze the races in with a piece of threaded rod and some appropriately sized washers.
Pop the races in the freezer overnight before installation. They'll shrink down a little and make for an easier install.
You can rent or buy this set from most Advanced Auto Parts or some other parts stores
They double as seal drivers Makes driving races a lot easier and less cause for damage
Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL
I seen both being done on a youtube video, I do not think the threaded rod was needed, but provides for a even set of both top and bottom, so it said.
I think the pic of the drawing came out.
not sure which one is the better pic.
I tried to draw in a shock, that distance could vary a little depending on model of shock used and style of tab coming off the fork tube for shock mounting.
I do not seeing this being unstable, running long rods for the springer fork which is attached higher up on the fork assembly seems less stable than the shock attached to the fork. Again just an estimate until I get the neck welded into place, than I can see the exact measurements and start building the front end, or order it if need be.
I did not see any leading link arm design with a drop pivot like this, or I did and that is why it is in my mind, not sure, but it is on paper, does it work ?
Andy, I say buy the race driver set
I have a similar set I bought 35 years ago and I paid a lot more for it
It has long since paid for itself ( the drivers are soft on the races so they wont ding em)
Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL
The geometry you have drawn there is very very much like mine.
Rockers are short enough to not have to loop around the back.
The spring rate of the shocks will probably make you have to move the shock bottom back away from axle and toward the lower pivot.
Make the lower pivots very robust.
Just for giggles and design exercise.....try spinning the yokes 180 or backwards. If you can get the legs moved back more then you can get the lower pivots even lower.
I read about that, think someone else was trying it, interesting thought and makes me want to see about it now, LOL.
If it is to be more inline with a springer design, springer fork tube runs parallel with the main tube, than you are saying match the offset of the top mount to the rocker arm pivot point.
Might even have to design the top mount longer from the main tube, but I think I understand.
For sure a mock up rocker from wood, a few I am sure, will help me find that right pivot point.
Have a good eveing everyone.
Here is an early drawing of mine. I thought I had one with all the dims on it, but can not find it.
I did a little this way and that with it from this point. But you can see I was working towards small trail.
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