Got the coolant leaked stopped. Now, just as I was pulling into the garage, it sputtered, spit, died and although it will turn over it will not start. Thinking fuel or ignition. Ideas? And I wanted to take it out on a ride this weekend!!
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Stallion repeat dump
Got the coolant leaked stopped. Now, just as I was pulling into the garage, it sputtered, spit, died and although it will turn over it will not start. Thinking fuel or ignition. Ideas? And I wanted to take it out on a ride this weekend!!
Gary, get 1 of these, about 10.00. You just lay it on the end of the plug wire, if you have ignition it will light up
This way you can rule out the ignition. This is made by Lisle tools, Sears and many Auto stores carry it.
Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL
When ever i have an engine that cranks but won't start, I use the caveman way of seeing if its a fuel [lack of] problem i give it a shot of starting fluid in the throttle /carb intake if it kicks over then its a fuel problem...
Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
2019 Tri-Glide.......
Fuel is nearly full. Fuel pump, maybe? Be looking for my spark tester tomorrow. Should have at least one left over from when I was in the OPE business. Just have to find it amongst all the stuff in the garage. May just have it towed to my auto repair guy or he might come get the thing.Originally Posted by rhino 2
I'll get if I can't find one in all my stuff. thanks.
Gary, get 1 of these, about 10.00 You just lay it on the end of the plug wire, if you have ignition it will light up.
This way you can rule out the ignition. This is made by Lisle tools, Sears and many Auto stores carry it.
FIRST Also look under the hood at the air intake, if it cracked the MAS shuts the fuel off. If that is the case I posted a fix for that in the Stallion section. That was the same thing that happen when mine broke. I'm betting on that.
Have you changed the fuel filter? If I remember correctly the fuel pump is in the gas tank.
Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide
Have you tried the bump cutoff button under the seat by the fuse block? (Not sure if that is the correct name.) It has a red cap on it. I have had it pop out on me. Just push it down and see if it resets. Rick
If you got to ride, ride in style
Stallion #378
Suzuki Burgman 650
Will do, Thanks
This should be your first check and one finger fix! Red button under the seat towards the right side.
Tomg
rocket1if and tomg were right! Finally got a minute to check the button. It was out. Reset and the unit started right up. Thanks guys.
You are very welcome, enjoy your ride!! Tomg
You're welcome. Glad it worked. Rick
If you got to ride, ride in style
Stallion #378
Suzuki Burgman 650
Now I'm left with a check engine light which I'll have my mechanic check out tomorrow.
Probably overheated enough that it threw a code & went into limp mode. Gotta have a scanner to clear the code & turn the light off on that one (won't go off on its own).
Showing code P1299. Also, seems the shifter lockout isn't working, have to manually push the button in to shift out of park.
That trouble code is related to low coolant and run hot
Read here
https://www.autocodes.com/p1299_ford.html
Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL
Good. I can just have my mechanic reset the code. The unit most definitely got hot a couple of times. Thanks.
Well, since I can't PM Trike Tech, I'll just put it here and maybe someone has the answer. Coolant problem repaired, check engine light reset. Now, the switch allowing the shifter out of park, and the radiator fan motor have quit. Fan motor will not work even if the add on switch is turned on. Hat trick.
The Engine Coolant Temperature switch that can also be found at your local Auto Parts Store. The switch is known for failing prematurely if over-torqued. (Simply install thread tape on it, and snug it up. DO NOT OVER-TORQUE! ) The Stallion is powered by a 2.3L Ford engine, so therefore the replacement sensor is based off of the OEM specs (which is 180 Degrees). Simply take yours out and go match one up at the store that has the same specs and the same threads. If you are in the middle of a trip, simply take the blue wire that is connected to it, and ground it out. This will manually turn your cooling (radiator) fan on. The fan will now be controlled by the ignition switch, so it will stay on as long as the key is on. Like said in previous posts, the fan will also run while the A/C is on.
If your fan fails to run regardless, then suspect faulty Cooling Fan Relay (Inside Engine Bay on newer models, by Backrest Seat support located under the seat on older models), Fan problems, or Wiring Issue. I have seen all of these issues many times, although Sensor located in front of tire was main cause more frequently than others. On newer bikes, there was a Wiring Harness upgrade, and there were minor problems with under-rated fuse being used for Cooling Fan. Originally it was a 20A, then updated to a 30A, which corrected the problem.
I dunno about the shifter problem, If this is also a Ford set up some had a shift interlock solenoid
Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL
No shift no cooling fan? Check for a blown fuse. Could be something simple
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