Just another Oil Thread

[Jack Klarich]

I use brush on teflon on the threads, I hate that tape

The teflon actually acts as a lube for the threads plus helps seal the threads

[MDO]

The stuff Jack shows works great.

Teflon tape will work, if used properly, and that is a big IF!

Users wrap it the wrong way on the threads,

they wrap it past the end of the threads.

The product Jack shows is much easier to use.

You have to keep in mind the item your dealing with.

If it has an "O" ring and a recess on the bolt for the ring, it seals on the ring.

Threads such as tapered NPT, seal on the threads. (National Pipe Thread)

[FuzzyWuzHe]

If it has an "O" ring and a recess on the bolt for the ring, it seals on the ring.

That's exactly why I never use anything on the plugs. Never had a leak.

[MDO]

That's exactly why I never use anything on the plugs. Never had a leak.

The dealer will put a dab of the pipe dope on the three drain plug threads.

1 other thing I noticed, I hear a lot of people say they pulled their drain plug and the O ring is torn up. This is probably from over torquing of the plug or the seating surface on the drain pan could have a burr and or a rough spot on the seating surface.

I'm lazy & use a vacuum pump on the engine & tranny oil to remove it. It's a little slower, but a lot easier & cleaner IMO.

[TG Bob]

After reading this thread I will offer the following: on drain plugs the "O" ring does the sealing (as stated above), you do not need to put sealer on the threads. Be sure and lube the O ring with oil when installing -do not put it on dry. The cut O rings are a result of the O ring getting caught on the edge of the drain bore and then getting crushed under the plug when tightened. I have owned 5 twin cams and all of them had a very sharp edge on the drain bore that would catch the O rings. After the plug was installed you could use a light and a mirror and see the O ring sticking out from under the drain plug. The fix was to take a round rotary file about 3/4" diameter (like a little round ball) and BY HAND knurl the sharp edge of the drain bore smooth. After doing this I never caught another O ring and have used them over and over again. You can tell if you caught the O ring by paying attention to how the plug tightens up. If it stops abruptly then you are good to go (metal plug is tight against the metal case) - if it stops and feels a little spongy or springy then you have caught the O ring and need to remove it and try again with another O ring. If you are really good you can stop installing the plug if you feel the sponginess and turn the plug back and forth a couple of times and work the O ring into the bore. This is all done by hand, no wrench until you are sure the plug and O ring is in correctly. Now a thought about oil: Harley used to say absolutely no to synthetic oil in their engines until they came out with their own brand of synthetic oil. Coincidence?

Bob

[DK Custom Products]

After reading this thread I will offer the following: on drain plugs the "O" ring does the sealing (as stated above), you do not need to put sealer on the threads. Be sure and lube the O ring with oil when installing -do not put it on dry. The cut O rings are a result of the O ring getting caught on the edge of the drain bore and then getting crushed under the plug when tightened. I have owned 5 twin cams and all of them had a very sharp edge on the drain bore that would catch the O rings. After the plug was installed you could use a light and a mirror and see the O ring sticking out from under the drain plug. The fix was to take a round rotary file about 3/4" diameter (like a little round ball) and BY HAND knurl the sharp edge of the drain bore smooth. After doing this I never caught another O ring and have used them over and over again. You can tell if you caught the O ring by paying attention to how the plug tightens up. If it stops abruptly then you are good to go (metal plug is tight against the metal case) - if it stops and feels a little spongy or springy then you have caught the O ring and need to remove it and try again with another O ring. If you are really good you can stop installing the plug if you feel the sponginess and turn the plug back and forth a couple of times and work the O ring into the bore. This is all done by hand, no wrench until you are sure the plug and O ring is in correctly. Now a thought about oil: Harley used to say absolutely no to synthetic oil in their engines until they came out with their own brand of synthetic oil. Coincidence?

Bob

Good advice on the o-ring. Have done that myself and am able to re-use the o-rings for 10+ oil changes.

Yeah, that was funny when they changed their tune on the synthetic.

On yet another branch in the rabbit hole of oil. Just had a 30 year+ truck driver friend stop by for his 34 the last day and a half. 2015 Volvo D13. Recommended oil change interval is 60,000 miles. Oil filter change every 30,000 miles. The company runs a bit safer with their policy of changing the oil every 50,000 miles and the filters ever 25,000 miles.

Quite the eye opener on how long a true synthetic can last.

BUT, there is one BIG caveat.....the oil never goes over 240*. If it does (something goes wrong with the cooling system) go over 245*, then the oil must be changed immediately.

I had already learned about keeping the oil below 250* many years ago...ideally not going over 230*. But learning the above was a big confirmation of how important oil temp is to oil/additive package integrity.

Kevin

[GARYD]

Don't big rigs also have pre filters?

Amsoil has a 1 year/ 25K oil. I haven't brought myself to go that long yet.........yet!

[Capt.Bob]

I have been a bit concerned about oil consumption of my 2017 M8-engined Tri Glide and then was reading some historical information that the oil pump can hold up to 6 ounces of oil thus creating varying readings on the oil dipstick at different times depending on how much is retained in that area of the engine. I verified this this morning by adding some Syn 3, warming the engine up to operating temperature and then letting the oil leak down to the lower levels before taking readings and found that the engine in fact needed less oil than I fed it by about 2-3 ounces. The reports of the oil sump holding up to 6 ounces seems pretty credible based on my simple experimentation. Unfortunately, now my oil level is two bars under full and there are 9 total bars on the fill portion of the M8 engine dipstick. I would have been a bit happier to see the oil at about 5 bars or essentially two bars less than I found it after warming up the engine. Many of us have a propensity to overfill the engine oil and need to be mindful that about 1/2 of the fill mark seems to be an optimal level for reducing blow-by into the induction system and also fouling the air cleaner.

[DK Custom Products]

I have been a bit concerned about oil consumption of my 2017 M8-engined Tri Glide and then was reading some historical information that the oil pump can hold up to 6 ounces of oil thus creating varying readings on the oil dipstick at different times depending on how much is retained in that area of the engine. I verified this this morning by adding some Syn 3, warming the engine up to operating temperature and then letting the oil leak down to the lower levels before taking readings and found that the engine in fact needed less oil than I fed it by about 2-3 ounces. The reports of the oil sump holding up to 6 ounces seems pretty credible based on my simple experimentation. Unfortunately, now my oil level is two bars under full and there are 9 total bars on the fill portion of the M8 engine dipstick. I would have been a bit happier to see the oil at about 5 bars or essentially two bars less than I found it after warming up the engine. Many of us have a propensity to overfill the engine oil and need to be mindful that about 1/2 of the fill mark seems to be an optimal level for reducing blow-by into the induction system and also fouling the air cleaner.

Two Words: Turkey Baster



Kevin

[520fd]

Noticed today while out on a ride that. When the trike was not warmed up, the shifting was very nice and quiet. The warmer it got, the noisier the shifting was. I have Syn3 for engine oil, Syn3 for the primary. I have Bel Ray transmission saver in the tranny. I'm thinking that the viscosity on the trans oil is thinning out too much as it gets warmer. I just went over 5000 miles today, so I'm due for and oil change. From what I said what I had in my trike. What do you recommend for the transmission shifting issue?

[DK Custom Products]

Noticed today while out on a ride that. When the trike was not warmed up, the shifting was very nice and quiet. The warmer it got, the noisier the shifting was. I have Syn3 for engine oil, Syn3 for the primary. I have Bel Ray transmission saver in the tranny. I'm thinking that the viscosity on the trans oil is thinning out too much as it gets warmer. I just went over 5000 miles today, so I'm due for and oil change. From what I said what I had in my trike. What do you recommend for the transmission shifting issue?

Redline V-TWIN TRANSMISSION OIL WITH SHOCKPROOF

• Same fluid as our unique Heavy ShockProof® Gear Oil
  

I believe it is 80W that a lot of folks get, but I've been using their 90W, and plan to continue doing so.

https://www.redlineoil.com/v-twin-tr...r-transmission

Kevin