Rebel RT

RebelRouser

I'll play with it some more tomorrow, Today is new washing machine install day and Friday dancing lessons (waltz) to keep Dr. Mom happy you know what they say about: If mama is not happy no one is happy...
 
RebelRouser

Carb is centeredHPIM3450.jpgso the 1" steel frame is centered to the carb but not to the lower frame it is about 1/4" off, so now the air cleaner with offset is a little to close on the inside, and the left side is almost touching the side engine cover, maybe 3/4" steel sq. tubing or??? More measurements coming...
 
RebelRouser

OK! HELP, I'm thinking the frame (Vert.) between the lower and upper should be one piece and not two, I will make a circle of 3/4 solid steel around the carb/air cleaner to the upper piece, should I run a straight out air cleaner or 90 degrees? I would like all viewers to weigh in please??? HPIM3456.jpgHPIM3457.JPGHPIM3458.JPGHPIM3459.JPG And the PVC elbo will be red...EDIT: I need as much room with the lower vert. frame for the seat attachment and to clear the rear fender/tire.
 
OK! HELP, I'm thinking the frame (Vert.) between the lower and upper should be one piece and not two, I will make a circle of 3/4 solid steel around the carb/air cleaner to the upper piece, should I run a straight out air cleaner or 90 degrees? I would like all viewers to weigh in please??? View attachment 71182View attachment 71183View attachment 71184View attachment 71185 And the PVC elbo will be red...

think i would build the frame around the back of the filter and use the upright as shown

i think it would tough to fit the square tube to the 3/4 round to make it look presentable and strong

i think it would b easier to cut 2 ovals then a band to make the inside an 1 for the outside... like making an oval from tubing

sketch i hope is self explanatory..
 

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It does look good TommyJ, nut cracker it is, or a chest opener.

I would choose the air breather design that allow's access the easiest. Bring it out and down seems to take more distance and brings it closer to the rider, or is it my eye's ?

The look of the breather attached directly to the intake looked the shortest to me, and it does put it up to be a chest crusher. So this is a designer's call to me, it is what you are after that counts.

That vertical and motor mount tab is a nut buster for sure and makes me week between the knee's.

Top bad we could not flare the seat at that end and bring it up over that area, just enough so it would not allow the rider to slide, slam, up against that vertical bar.

This may require a custom seat to make all look right and function at it's best. Do you still have chain clearance under the seat ?

:)
 
RebelRouser

Thanks GPS, HPIM3473.jpgStraight edge for the top of the chain, now what is that going to do with the carb and seat?HPIM3477.jpgHPIM3478.jpgHPIM3479.jpgFor every action there is a reaction...:gah: EDIT: Did you notice the new welder 220/110 stick, Home Depot, I/4" plate, we will see...
 
That is so true.

You can raise the seat higher, but that might interfer with the center of gravity in cornering, unless you as the rider like to shift your own body weight from side to side. Oh crap, did I ever wonder on my bike years ago. I am small and it took alot of work sometimes to keep in the corner, and yes I over shot a few of them and survived it.

So if you want to keep seat as low as possible, than one would have to make the base from steel or something strong. You can use what you have and just modify the areas needed to create the prototype, I like the look of it, but rider size matters. Me a thin long seat works, a Fat Boy seat swallows me up.

My mind says make the seat wider and deeper so it sits over the chain and covers it up like the "old chain guards" on our pedal bikes. Maybe have it tube like over the chain on the left side and attach to the lower support beams.

I think this is enough for you to activate ideas with, or enough for you tell me to push off, LOL

Really hope my mind is not out in left field guys, thinking out of the box and trying to be helpful, so I think.:confused:
 
I do not like scraping idea's, but some times it is done because I looked into an idea that was bad.

IF the engine was able to be offset with in the frame work.

If the engine was mounted lower than it is now, than the chain line would run under the seat line more, and all may adjust and work out easier. I really like the idea of a chain guard style seat base, but that is me, as I always wonder what would happen if a through a chain while rideing. Just step back and look at solution's that can solve the issue, that is if you still want the seat level low, if you can be higher like that than all should work out, but you have to piece it all together in your mind and than to paper. Need to feel like I am helping some one.
 
It could be my eyes, but I see the front engine sprocket height, the true chain level would increase higher as it leads to the rear sprocket. The rear sprocket is much larger than the front.I would just use some simple hose or soft tubing split open so it would wrap around the sprockets and you can see the true chain line.I just do not want you to be bummed out when it does not fit right, or just run a piece of rope around the sprockets, just so you can see that for sure your seat clears the chain. I mean we need enough clearance under the seat so when the rear tire goes up and down the chain height is not rubbing on the seat or anything else..
 
It could be my eyes, but I see the front engine sprocket height, the true chain level would increase higher as it leads to the rear sprocket. The rear sprocket is much larger than the front.I would just use some simple hose or soft tubing split open so it would wrap around the sprockets and you can see the true chain line.I just do not want you to be bummed out when it does not fit right, or just run a piece of rope around the sprockets, just so you can see that for sure your seat clears the chain. I mean we need enough clearance under the seat so when the rear tire goes up and down the chain height is not rubbing on the seat or anything else..
Thanks again GPS, BUT The chain height is about 1" from the seat and will go to a jack shaft with the 2 sprockets being about 4" in diameter to the rear frame and the seat will be one of the last items being welded
 
RebelRouser

Ordered the jack shaft sprockets today Honda 15T with a 520 chain and Harley 20T with a 530 chain, that's the closest in sizes I could get...

1-Jack_Shaft_Housing_Block.jpg1-Jack_Shaft_JKS-300-2.jpgI'll be making something like these, in this area. HPIM3494.JPGAny other idea's???
 
?, are chains still adjustable today. Years ago we would just remove links and put the master link back in and have a chain to fit our needs. Do they still make them adjustable that way ?

I missed the jack shaft sprocket idea, I see that it is a good idea and would be the way I would have done it also if I had thought of it. Yes a bit out of my nomral area, but I love what you are doing and I am learning so much about it all.

A huge project TomyJ, but I love ever minute of it.
 
RebelRouser

HPIM3209.jpgHPIM3210.jpgI am having second thoughts about the middle frame rails, to wide for my legs and foot pegs, so maybe I'll double up the lower rails and weld them together, 2- 1.25 sq. with 1/8 wall= 1.25X2.5, should be strong enough??? What do you guys think???HPIM3470.jpg
 
HPIM3504.JPGThis is going to take a while, I am thinking of welding the sprockets to the inside of the sprockets and 2 pillow block bearings on the outside, BUTT I would love to put a 2.5" OD with bearings on the inside, I do not want to get much machining done $$$.1-Jack_Shaft_JKS-300-2.jpgThings like this really piss me off, here I am a machinist with no machines. Any other ideas out there???
 

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