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El Lobo10El LoboHarley Tri GlideBeen away for a while
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cissywalton2GorillaCalifornia Sidecar T...how do I change out the reverse bel...
Noodles1073Noodles107Harley Freewheeler /...Tobacco Fade
Old Aviator5Old AviatorHonda TrikesGreasing a Motortrike Coupe SA rear...
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ronc44242ronc4424Harley Tri Glidequestion
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Thread: Rebel RT

  1. #181
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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ID:	69894Playing with a possible nose?, headlight? see through plastics, vent for engine???
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  2. #182
    13500+ Posts FuzzyWuzHe's Avatar
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    Love the tank

  3. #183
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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ID:	70042Need to widen the steering arms and re-thinking the seat height
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  4. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomyJ View Post
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ID:	70042Need to widen the steering arms and re-thinking the seat height
    personally i would go with a taller seat height people have a hard enough time seeing us as it is

  5. #185
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    True that, being to low to the ground does have disadvantages on the road way's.

    I thought it was just to low for a comfortable ride position, but I am a small person, so it kinda looked good for a larger person, just what I seen. Not a lot of fiberglass work for me, but I have done some, and very interested in watching you work and how it can be done. Maybe I will learn more about this area.

    Thanks for sharing this project with the site.

  6. #186
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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ID:	70155Guess who needs to buy some metric impact sockets for the engine bolts? This is going to be taking some time...
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  7. #187
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    oh yes, that started years ago, two tool box's. One is full of standard sockets and wrench's, the other is all metric that I have gotten over the years.I am actually amazed at how many times I have used this 33mm socket I got years ago, at the time I thought spend this $ for a one time need! Crazy, but all has paid for itself in the long run.So is the Rebel going to be metric and standard size's ? Sounds like this will be fun for sure.

  8. #188
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    When flea marketing, I look for the tools and clean out the metric stuff. Never can have too many 10 mm stuff.
    2012 Triglide Piaggio MP3 500 to get groceries 1991 FLHS as back up
    "Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it !"
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  9. #189
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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    Thank you guy's, you are so right, I went from building hot rods to muscle car rebuilding and they both priced me out and the tools were not metric so here I go with Harbor Freight 12 point impact sockets (20% off heeheehee). I have the DeWalt impact wrench I used on independent suspensions and a hand held (smack it with a hammer) Allen head bits with cross point bit.Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #190
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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ID:	70444Yeaaa!!! Engine out and ready to set up engine in trike, must remember height for jack shaft...
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  11. #191
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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ID:	70487Took 5 minutes to put the engine in place and all day to level it out and measure for engine mounts,
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  12. #192
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    That does sound about right. It just seems to work out that way most the time. It does look good setting there, all is coming along nicely.

  13. #193
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    not to hi jack your thread TomyJ, but can you take a look at this and advise me any if possible.

    https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...d=1#post664366

    Thanks

  14. #194
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    Fill me in if I am wrong about doing this. Okay from what I have gathered there are a few possible ways of attching the fender to the metal support arms.

    After the uprights are made I will work the inside area of the fender were all mounts, can attach using super adhesive, or by rivets. Once that is done that I can work the fiberglass and cloth over the metal, sandwich the metal, and after all is dry it should be good to go. Oh if I drill some holes in the mounting area of the metal than more resin will in case it, or is that short cut fiber hair what I want to use when matting the two surfaces together?

    The other way was to use 18 gauge metal and bend it to the inside shape of fender and attach it to the fender. The idea was it would be more workable and form to the fender easier, in turn should make a good solid attached bracket. Now I can just screw the fender and bracket onto the upright supports.

    I would like to do it the most secure way, so does individual upright supports screwed to fender bracket provide more solidness in the set up, or does a upright support attached solid to fender provide more ? first is 3 pieces and the later method would be all one piece. Yes one has to put the fender over the tire and on the spacers and than slide the axle thru it all. Just looking for the better method I guess as either does work.

    Thank you for the help and input on the matter.

  15. #195
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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ID:	70728Motor mounts front and lower rear, single vertical rear frame is out because carb air cleaner will be in the way so duals will maybe work? Or maybe 45 degrees to side? AND maybe test fit exhaust??? HAPPY EASTER, Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #196
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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    Rear motor mounts and upper frame brace, Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #197
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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ID:	70880This 1'sq x 1/8 should work, I wanted a one piece but the carb air cleaner would not work, sooooo!!!
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  18. #198
    600+ Posts TomyJ's Avatar
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ID:	70950Damn! Engine mounts NOT square to the width of the engine so my vertical frame has to be offset...
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  19. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomyJ View Post
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ID:	70950Damn! Engine mounts NOT square to the width of the engine so my vertical frame has to be offset...
    cant put a joggle in the bracket?

  20. #200
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    Did something shift during the move ? Bummer if the vertical frame is off and if it can not be corrected, I am with "can't you joggle the mount brackets so they hide the vertical offset ? It is your project and I am sure you already have an idea on how to correct it all. Hope it does not set you back to far on your progress.

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