my wheels center line is 12.5 inchs of the ground and the seat is 1.5 to 2 inch's above that, so me the rider should be sitting at 13.5 to 14 inch's off the ground and a inch or two above wheel center line. Ed Roth designed trike. Interesting
my wheels center line is 12.5 inchs of the ground and the seat is 1.5 to 2 inch's above that, so me the rider should be sitting at 13.5 to 14 inch's off the ground and a inch or two above wheel center line. Ed Roth designed trike. Interesting
I bought the trike from my neighbor, believe this the trike was her mothers, guess she had boyfriends that built it for her, so the story went.
Never met ED, but his design looks good, man that would be awesome to spend time chatting.
He was given the patent in 1973, and my trike was registered in NV in 1976, and this makes me wonder about things and have questions, so a sit down with the past would be a blast for me.
Hope all the best, ride safe.
I am not happy with the upper frame rails being 19" wide and the seat less? floor boards? But the engine is 16.5" wide? SOOOOO!!! I think it's time to set the engine and do a work around after the front control arm upper rails are finished, I should take a upper photo of seat and rails. Mocked up the gas tank brace and tie end for the rear engine mount and seat...
JakeJacobsen@Pinterest.com
I too like the one long seat compared to the two piece seat. I hope all works out for it.
Taking shape and looking good!
+1
if the brace has to stay because of the engine, well why not bring back the steering bracket back on angle with the handle bar design ?I thought it looked upright to much to me, but I have not designed such a project, so I just watch and learn as I can. I could be wrong, but should we finish out the enegine and all that in the mock up so you can see it all, than look at the handle bar design. Your game, just a fan in the stands, LOL.
2nd what Andy said, but I see now that you will tilt the bars back.....am I seeing foot pegs on the side shown? first glance I thought feet would be ahead of the shocks...lol that tank will give a nice touch! good progress.
I know, I know what time it is! Time to see about an engine fitting into the new area ?Or is it, Spring has sprung and the sun is out and so it is Ride Time ?I love to ride.
Love the tank
True that, being to low to the ground does have disadvantages on the road way's.
I thought it was just to low for a comfortable ride position, but I am a small person, so it kinda looked good for a larger person, just what I seen. Not a lot of fiberglass work for me, but I have done some, and very interested in watching you work and how it can be done. Maybe I will learn more about this area.
Thanks for sharing this project with the site.
oh yes, that started years ago, two tool box's. One is full of standard sockets and wrench's, the other is all metric that I have gotten over the years.I am actually amazed at how many times I have used this 33mm socket I got years ago, at the time I thought spend this $ for a one time need! Crazy, but all has paid for itself in the long run.So is the Rebel going to be metric and standard size's ? Sounds like this will be fun for sure.
When flea marketing, I look for the tools and clean out the metric stuff. Never can have too many 10 mm stuff.
2012 Triglide Piaggio MP3 500 to get groceries 1991 FLHS as back up
"Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it !"
Tiffany, Olive, Daisy, “The Three Musketeers” together again.
Thank you guy's, you are so right, I went from building hot rods to muscle car rebuilding and they both priced me out and the tools were not metric so here I go with Harbor Freight 12 point impact sockets (20% off heeheehee). I have the DeWalt impact wrench I used on independent suspensions and a hand held (smack it with a hammer) Allen head bits with cross point bit.
JakeJacobsen@Pinterest.com
That does sound about right. It just seems to work out that way most the time. It does look good setting there, all is coming along nicely.
not to hi jack your thread TomyJ, but can you take a look at this and advise me any if possible.
https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thre...d=1#post664366
Thanks
Fill me in if I am wrong about doing this. Okay from what I have gathered there are a few possible ways of attching the fender to the metal support arms.
After the uprights are made I will work the inside area of the fender were all mounts, can attach using super adhesive, or by rivets. Once that is done that I can work the fiberglass and cloth over the metal, sandwich the metal, and after all is dry it should be good to go. Oh if I drill some holes in the mounting area of the metal than more resin will in case it, or is that short cut fiber hair what I want to use when matting the two surfaces together?
The other way was to use 18 gauge metal and bend it to the inside shape of fender and attach it to the fender. The idea was it would be more workable and form to the fender easier, in turn should make a good solid attached bracket. Now I can just screw the fender and bracket onto the upright supports.
I would like to do it the most secure way, so does individual upright supports screwed to fender bracket provide more solidness in the set up, or does a upright support attached solid to fender provide more ? first is 3 pieces and the later method would be all one piece. Yes one has to put the fender over the tire and on the spacers and than slide the axle thru it all. Just looking for the better method I guess as either does work.
Thank you for the help and input on the matter.
Did something shift during the move ? Bummer if the vertical frame is off and if it can not be corrected, I am with "can't you joggle the mount brackets so they hide the vertical offset ? It is your project and I am sure you already have an idea on how to correct it all. Hope it does not set you back to far on your progress.