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Thread: Freewheeler "Chopper" Project

  1. #21
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    Free bird..... that FW is going to be crazy! I'm in the process of a very similar project with my 2017 FW. Was going for the 62 vette rear lights and pullback drag bars. Have 14" Carlini Ganster Apes now but they kill my elbows. One thing I did was replace the bearing retainer plates as recommended by Kevi at DK Customs. He machined a much stronger set which I brought to my dealership for install and they were in agreement. I'm also doing the Cragar wheels and had no idea about the hub situation.

    Can you get me the info of the fabricator you used? Would love the have a set made to mount my wheels and adapters when they come in a few weeks. How do you like the S&S intake? I ordered the same with Jackpot head pipes and Cobra slip ons. Thinking of dyno tuning and skipping the FP3 route. Any help or advice would be so appreciated. Can't wait to see your progress.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikejones View Post
    Free bird..... that FW is going to be crazy! I'm in the process of a very similar project with my 2017 FW. Was going for the 62 vette rear lights and pullback drag bars. Have 14" Carlini Ganster Apes now but they kill my elbows. One thing I did was replace the bearing retainer plates as recommended by Kevi at DK Customs. He machined a much stronger set which I brought to my dealership for install and they were in agreement. I'm also doing the Cragar wheels and had no idea about the hub situation. Can you get me the info of the fabricator you used? Would love the have a set made to mount my wheels and adapters when they come in a few weeks. How do you like the S&S intake? I ordered the same with Jackpot head pipes and Cobra slip ons. Thinking of dyno tuning and skipping the FP3 route. Any help or advice would be so appreciated. Can't wait to see your progress.
    Here is the deal with the Cragars....

    The bolt pattern on H-D trike rear wheels is 4x4.25". Stock Harley trike rear wheels are 15x5.5" with 2.85" backspacing. The Cragar I am using (15/14 SS) has a backspacing of 4.5”. My adapter is from Wheel Adapters USA and is a 4x4.25 to 5x4.5 adapter 2” thick with a 12x1.5 lug thread. So the Cragar at 4.5” backspace with a 2” adapter nets out at 2.5” backspacing and is very nearly equal to the stock Harley back space. Since I am fabricating the fenders... it all works well.

    But......

    Your wheel adapter MUST have a centering hub. Either built in or made for the purpose. I turned one down and made the insert for mine. The classic SS series has slotted holes and that means your (safe) installation relies on the centering hub to install the wheel. See below

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    You will get two sets of washers with the Cragars.... Use the offset hole washers to hold everything in place

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Lug Washers.jpg 
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ID:	59175

    I have them bolted onto the wheels right now. When the fenders come off and I install the tires, I will get some detail photos to share.

    Good Luck with your build!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikejones View Post
    Free bird..... that FW is going to be crazy! I'm in the process of a very similar project with my 2017 FW. Was going for the 62 vette rear lights and pullback drag bars. Have 14" Carlini Ganster Apes now but they kill my elbows. One thing I did was replace the bearing retainer plates as recommended by Kevi at DK Customs. He machined a much stronger set which I brought to my dealership for install and they were in agreement. I'm also doing the Cragar wheels and had no idea about the hub situation. Can you get me the info of the fabricator you used? Would love the have a set made to mount my wheels and adapters when they come in a few weeks. How do you like the S&S intake? I ordered the same with Jackpot head pipes and Cobra slip ons. Thinking of dyno tuning and skipping the FP3 route. Any help or advice would be so appreciated. Can't wait to see your progress.
    Oh... You asked about the S&S air cleaner. It seems to be fine. Data says it breathes better than stock so that and the fact that every bike I have ever owned had an S&S B, Two Throat, or E on it made the teardrop look a bit more like home for me. I do wish I had gone for the S&S El Dorado 50 State System instead of the Screaming Eagle Cannons.... I was not aware of the cat converter being as hot as it is and causing so much of an issue around town. S&S puts them under the body and (as I understand it) improves rider heat discomfort significantly. Maybe in a couple of years I will do that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Free Bird View Post
    Oh... You asked about the S&S air cleaner. It seems to be fine. Data says it breathes better than stock so that and the fact that every bike I have ever owned had an S&S B, Two Throat, or E on it made the teardrop look a bit more like home for me. I do wish I had gone for the S&S El Dorado 50 State System instead of the Screaming Eagle Cannons.... I was not aware of the cat converter being as hot as it is and causing so much of an issue around town. S&S puts them under the body and (as I understand it) improves rider heat discomfort significantly. Maybe in a couple of years I will do that.
    First off thank you very much for the detailed response. It will help me greatly. Going to have to look further into the adapter selection or easy to find some one to machine a set down. I picked that S&S for the same reason as you. Had them on all my bikes way back when so its a familiar and "old school" look.

    I liked the S&s Single Bore Tuned Induction kit but its a no-go on a FW. I'm going back and forth between the MT S/R and the S/T. I hear they both kinda suck in the rain (I try my best to avoid the rain) but I do like the raised white lettering on the S/T. The tread pattern on the S/R is making me lean that direction. The Street Comps look good but not into that low profile look and 17" wheels. I was going to do either a 10" or 12" wide tire but decided the 10" was not that dramatic of a difference from the 8" stock tire so 12's will be going on. I'm with you on the Cragar S/S wheels.

    Having a sissy bar made and cutting out a new mounting plate and welding the new sissy bar through it and into mounting location as to make it not a quick detach. Will have them weld a couple O rings high and low so I can clip on Old Glory when I want. Going with Wild ones 10" pullback drag bars. Might mock up the Khrome Werks 2+2 sweeper bars also to compare. For front wheel I am thinking of the PM Wrath 23". Its kinda close to the Cragar look and I had a 23 on my dyna and loved it. The difference in price from the 21" was a couple hundred.

    Fenders and wide glide front end will have to wait until next year. I can't thank you enough again for the help and don't be surprised if I ask a few more questions along the way. My build starts in about 2 weeks when all the parts arrive. BTW .. having it dyno tuned.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikejones View Post
    First off thank you very much for the detailed response. It will help me greatly. Going to have to look further into the adapter selection or easy to find some one to machine a set down. I picked that S&S for the same reason as you. Had them on all my bikes way back when so its a familiar and "old school" look. I liked the S&s Single Bore Tuned Induction kit but its a no-go on a FW. I'm going back and forth between the MT S/R and the S/T. I hear they both kinda suck in the rain (I try my best to avoid the rain) but I do like the raised white lettering on the S/T. The tread pattern on the S/R is making me lean that direction. The Street Comps look good but not into that low profile look and 17" wheels. I was going to do either a 10" or 12" wide tire but decided the 10" was not that dramatic of a difference from the 8" stock tire so 12's will be going on. I'm with you on the Cragar S/S wheels. Having a sissy bar made and cutting out a new mounting plate and welding the new sissy bar through it and into mounting location as to make it not a quick detach. Will have them weld a couple O rings high and low so I can clip on Old Glory when I want. Going with Wild ones 10" pullback drag bars. Might mock up the Khrome Werks 2+2 sweeper bars also to compare. For front wheel I am thinking of the PM Wrath 23". Its kinda close to the Cragar look and I had a 23 on my dyna and loved it. The difference in price from the 21" was a couple hundred. Fenders and wide glide front end will have to wait until next year. I can't thank you enough again for the help and don't be surprised if I ask a few more questions along the way. My build starts in about 2 weeks when all the parts arrive. BTW .. having it dyno tuned.
    Glad to share. You might want to stop by the local Goodyear dealer and look into their line of racing rain tires if you have a concern about it. The section widths are lower and the widths are a little narrower. By they may suit your design better The Eagle F-1 has raised lettering and is a rain tire. Again just food for thought. I have seen an Exile trike wearing these.

    Name:  tires_sport_rain.jpg
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Free Bird View Post
    Glad to share. You might want to stop by the local Goodyear dealer and look into their line of racing rain tires if you have a concern about it. The section widths are lower and the widths are a little narrower. By they may suit your design better The Eagle F-1 has raised lettering and is a rain tire. Again just food for thought. I have seen an Exile trike wearing these.

    Name:  tires_sport_rain.jpg
Views: 760
Size:  36.2 KB
    Thanks again. Those Exile trikes are hot but huge bucks! Thats why I am going this route.

  7. #27
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    Latest add ons.....

    Didn't like the Cyclesmiths Passenger "covers" so I went with Supreme Legends USA Rear Boards as the shape is nearly identical to the profile of the fenders (still in fabrication but concept pic is earlier in this thread) bolted to a chrome set of passenger mounts from the MoCo. Also added a Baker Custom 1.5" extended shifter and heel shift eliminator spacer. Running a Kuryakyn Extended brake arm with a Cyclesmith pad to match the Banana Boards. Everything fit up nicely.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Free Bird View Post
    Latest add ons.....

    Didn't like the Cyclesmiths Passenger "covers" so I went with Supreme Legends USA Rear Boards as the shape is nearly identical to the profile of the fenders (still in fabrication but concept pic is earlier in this thread) bolted to a chrome set of passenger mounts from the MoCo. Also added a Baker Custom 1.5" extended shifter and heel shift eliminator spacer. Running a Kuryakyn Extended brake arm with a Cyclesmith pad to match the Banana Boards. Everything fit up nicely.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	New Boards.jpg 
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ID:	59313

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Brike Side Boards.jpg 
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks sharp. Love the shifter set up.

  9. #29
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    Very cool project! Looks like a lot of fun. Gonna be one of a kind for sure!

    Kevin
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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by DK Custom Products View Post
    Very cool project! Looks like a lot of fun. Gonna be one of a kind for sure!

    Kevin
    Thanks Kevin,

    I ordered a set of your beefed up axle retaining plates (Great Idea BTW) to assist with the outboard bending moment that will be introduced when the fat tires go on. If the sheet metal ones were bending with the stock arrangement, the big tires would have accelerated the issues that the machined plates are meant to correct. Thanks for the ingenuity.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Free Bird View Post
    Here is the deal with the Cragars....

    The bolt pattern on H-D trike rear wheels is 4x4.25". Stock Harley trike rear wheels are 15x5.5" with 2.85" backspacing. The Cragar I am using (15/14 SS) has a backspacing of 4.5”. My adapter is from Wheel Adapters USA and is a 4x4.25 to 5x4.5 adapter 2” thick with a 12x1.5 lug thread. So the Cragar at 4.5” backspace with a 2” adapter nets out at 2.5” backspacing and is very nearly equal to the stock Harley back space. Since I am fabricating the fenders... it all works well.

    But......

    Your wheel adapter MUST have a centering hub. Either built in or made for the purpose. I turned one down and made the insert for mine. The classic SS series has slotted holes and that means your (safe) installation relies on the centering hub to install the wheel. See below

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Adapter.JPG 
Views:	922 
Size:	232.8 KB 
ID:	59173

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Wheel Adapter 1.jpg 
Views:	892 
Size:	178.5 KB 
ID:	59174

    You will get two sets of washers with the Cragars.... Use the offset hole washers to hold everything in place

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Lug Washers.jpg 
Views:	894 
Size:	187.2 KB 
ID:	59175

    I have them bolted onto the wheels right now. When the fenders come off and I install the tires, I will get some detail photos to share.

    Good Luck with your build!
    That must be an ol' school Cragar type thing. I did not have any problems with the 18X9's I used.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by haute pursuit View Post
    That must be an ol' school Cragar type thing. I did not have any problems with the 18X9's I used.
    Yeah.... It's not a problem, you just have to do it if you want the vintage S/S wheels. + I needed the deep wheel for the tire.... Not sure they make a 18 x 15

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    That's one great looking machine, Jeff.

    Nice work.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Free Bird View Post
    Thanks Kevin,

    I ordered a set of your beefed up axle retaining plates (Great Idea BTW) to assist with the outboard bending moment that will be introduced when the fat tires go on. If the sheet metal ones were bending with the stock arrangement, the big tires would have accelerated the issues that the machined plates are meant to correct. Thanks for the ingenuity.
    Yeah, good idea to do that on a stock bike, with your tires, even a better idea!

    Thank you!

    Kevin
    www.DKCustom.com
    Call: 662-252-8828 Text: 662-420-4891
    Email: Support@DKCustomProducts.com


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    950+ Posts Free Bird's Avatar
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    Got the tail light mounting figured out. Going to start drilling holes (after measuring 20-30 times first) and mounting/wiring them in this week. That paves the way for the fat tires to go on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Free Bird View Post
    Got the tail light mounting figured out. Going to start drilling holes (after measuring 20-30 times first) and mounting/wiring them in this week. That paves the way for the fat tires to go on.

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    Can't wait to see the finished product. I'm going to do early 60's corvette lights. Doing an all inclusive plate frame for now. Next week (I hope) handlebars, performance upgrades and dyno tuning. Having trouble finding the spacer/adapter with a centering hub. Did you get the direct drill wheel?

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    No not direct drilled wheel.... Cragar Series 08/61 S/S Super Sport - Multi Fit/Vari-fit utilizing Mag Lug Nuts w/ Cragar Washers. 08/61 Series wheels require traditional Cragar S/S Mag style lug nuts and off center washers for installation. Take a look at their website and you can see. The centering ring in my adapter is also part of that connection. I had the same wheels on my GTO as a teenager. Not complicated really. I just needed a certain wheel size to go along with the fat MT tires....

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    Tail Lights still coming together. Fenders off and fat tire check went ok (Thank you Lord). Waiting on the hub-centric rings to line everything up and then on to the fender building.

    Sissy bar came today.... Looks AWESOME!

    Unfortunately, it will have to go back. The attach points for the pad are not located correctly and the seat pan will need rework....

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    Frustrating.... but doesn't keep me from riding

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    The quality of the sissy bar is so superior to the old AEE pointed one I used to have "back in the day".... For those who ran them (usually on a hardatail frame)...do you remember how they used to crack right down the middle at the top of the point. Then you would grind, re-weld, paint with a little galvanized fence paint (and hope nobody noticed) and then they would crack again.... (sorry for the war story but it adds context to the next comment)

    Look at the quality of the welds and polish work on this bar..... Nice

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    Ginz Choppers does a great job.... They just exercise your virtue of patience

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    Quote Originally Posted by Free Bird View Post
    The quality of the sissy bar is so superior to the old AEE pointed one I used to have "back in the day".... For those who ran them (usually on a hardatail frame)...do you remember how they used to crack right down the middle at the top of the point. Then you would grind, re-weld, paint with a little galvanized fence paint (and hope nobody noticed) and then they would crack again.... (sorry for the war story but it adds context to the next comment)

    Look at the quality of the welds and polish work on this bar..... Nice

    Name:  Picture1.jpg
Views: 548
Size:  528.8 KB


    Ginz Choppers does a great job.... They just exercise your virtue of patience
    Beautiful sissy bar. Are you using the OEM quick detach still for mounting? Mine went in last week for the start of the project. Cobra slip ons, Jackpot headers, S&S mini tear-drop intake, installing the DK Customs retainer plates (which my tech was quite impressed with Kevin and was 100% behind that modification), fenders being removed and license plate frame will house all LED lights until I get my Corvette lights for the trunk. Waiting on my 10" Wild ones pullback drag bars and installing DK Customs tank lift kit. Wheels and tires being ordered today. Hoping to have pics in next couple weeks. Thanks for the continued updates. Looking great!!

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