Empi forged disc brake mounting bracket

[starrider1946]

Anybody use the forged bracket instead of the stamped bracket for the Empi disc brake kit. I have the 22-2861 kit. I am having brake problems and wonder if I should get the forged ones. I have been reading on TheSamba VW forum and a lot of them are having the same problem as me with the brakes making a terrible noise when I apply thee brakes. Sometime I think I can hear it even if I am not using the brakes like it could be dragging. I have gotten some good advice of things to try on the forum here but I was wondering if the forged brackets would be better. I wish I would have went ahead and gotten them with the kit but I didn't.

One of the members suggested I lightly sand the pads and clean them with soap and water and bevel the edges of the pads. I am going to try that and use some brake quiet on the back of the pads and lubricate the pins. I am going to try that but I thought about going ahead and getting the forged brackets and change them while I have the wheel off. I want to make this work. I can stop really well.

[LarryA]

all disc brake mountings on cars and trucks that I have noticed, seem to be of heavy construction. I think the forged would help....if not solve your problem.

[starrider1946]

Larry I think you are right. I am going ahead and order a set. ugh Guess I should have ordered the deluxe kit and got them with it but I didn't. Do you know how I would go about checking to caliper to see if it is square to the rotor. I have looked for a thread of how to do it but haven't found one.

I think while I am waiting I am going to pull the calipers off and lightly sand the pads and chamfer the edges and put some brake quiet on the back side of the pads and lubricated the pins good. I went to the store right up the road this morning. Used the brakes probably 6 or 7 times and it didn't make a sound. When it starts making the noise I can barley be moving. I guess the calipers could be a little crooked. Ordering the brackets today. I can get them off ebay for 46.00 a piece. Thanks Larry

[Sidecarbill]

Do you have enough free play in the master to brake pedal rod? That could cause brakes to drag slightly when they get hot. I doesn't seem like it could be the brackets. If doesn't do it all the time nothing about those brackets is gonna change. I certainly would grease the sliding surfaces.

[starrider1946]

I will check the free play in the rod. Hadn't thought about that.

[grandpanystrom61]

Interesting, hope you the best, looks like I might be putting a disc brake system on mine soon, very helpful read.

[Jack Klarich]

Simple and fast way to check free travel, ride it a few miles, crack the bleeder screw open, if your free travel is not correct, fluid will push out not just dribble out and your wheels will turn free assuming they were too tight or locked up

Unless some one did not set up your rear brakes correctly to begin with the only thing that will change the free play is bent mounts or a bad master cylinder

[starrider1946]

I have free play in the master cylinder rod. Just check it and ever gave it a little more. It could the the mounts. I am fixing to take the calipers off and sand them and clean them and chamfer the edges of the pads and use a lubricant on the backs of the pads and the pins to see if that helps. I have a friend that works the the auto supply whre I got the lubricant. I was telling him what it was doing and he says it' the pads. I sure the pads that come with the kit are the cheapest ones you can get. Is there a quality pad I can get to go with the Empi 22-2861 kit? Raybestos or company like that.

I rode to the autp supply to get the lubricant and it didn't do it until I had applied the brakes several times. If anyone know of any aftermarket good pads please let me know. Thanks

[Jack Klarich]

I have free play in the master cylinder rod. Just check it and ever gave it a little more. It could the the mounts. I am fixing to take the calipers off and sand them and clean them and chamfer the edges of the pads and use a lubricant on the backs of the pads and the pins to see if that helps. I have a friend that works the the auto supply whre I got the lubricant. I was telling him what it was doing and he says it' the pads. I sure the pads that come with the kit are the cheapest ones you can get. Is there a quality pad I can get to go with the Empi 22-2861 kit? Raybestos or company like that.

I rode to the autp supply to get the lubricant and it didn't do it until I had applied the brakes several times. If anyone know of any aftermarket good pads please let me know. Thanks

See if you can cross them to EBC pads

[starrider1946]

Pulled both wheels off. Took the pads off ( didn't realize I could do that without removing the calipers) and sanded them with 220 grit sandpaper. Didn't see any unusual wear. I chambered the edges of the pads and put some brake quiet on the backs of the pads. I looked at the calipers to see if they looked centered. The right one was questionable but I thought it was centered. I put everything g back together and took a ride at first I thought it was better. The more I used the brakes it seemed to get worse. I actually turned off the motor while still rolling and I could hear and feel it. I can home and pulled the right wheel and looked at it again. It did look like the rotor wax toward the out side a little. I put in one of the thick washers and I think it looks better. Didn't get a chance to try it. I will tomorrow. I talked to a guy at moorelarts which is who I got the kit from about upgrading the pads. He said pads fro a 72 Karmann this vw would fit. I may look into that. Gonna try it tomorrow. Trying to hold off on the forged brackets if I can make it work.

[starrider1946]

Jack K. Found this out today. I did ride the trike. The first few times I applied the brakes it didn't make a sound. Them probably about the fifth time I used the brakes it started making the noise. I did check the rod to the master cylinder to make sure it had the right abmout of play and actually backed off on it a little more. Any today when I got home I jacked it up on the right side. I think my problem is on that side. I took the wheel and rolled the hub over by hand and it seemed tight. I loosened the bleeder screws and it freed up. I am running type 1 master cylinder. I don't think it is that becasuse the other side if fine. The brake line comes to the rear then splits. The pistons in the caliper seen to slide easily and I don't think they are sticking. I wonder if something is wrong with the lines. It has the stock lines on it. Any ideas. Thanks

[Jack Klarich]

Only if you have a kink in a steel line, or you have rubber flex hoses

Rubber flex hoses can collapse over time causing brake fluid to be trapped

If you can have someone pump the brakes up while you look at the caliper you should see the piston move out when brakes are applied, in when pressure is released, A sticky piston can fool you easily

[Sidecarbill]

If you have a rubber line going to the caliper, the next time the brakes drag loosen the fitting that connects the hard line to the rubber line. If it doesn't free up the caliper then the problem is in the rubber line. If it does free up keep moveing forward to the master cylinder.

[starrider1946]

I don't think the steel part of the line is linked. I order two new brake 'line hoses and the place I ordered from had some brake pads the guy said were good so I ordered a set of pads. I Hadn't thought about the fitting on the brake line.

I had a 69 vs that I had a brake line I had trouble with. It wouldn't release the brakes. I hope that is my problem. I am hoping that after I use my brakes a few times it isn't releaseing on the right side and making my noise. It won't hurt to replace the lines anyway. I'll post after I get the lines and pads changed. Thanks for the suggestions.