Battery died - Part 2

[TG Bob]

First, thanks to all of you and your inputs to my previous post (which somehow turned into a discussion on oil sampling). Looks like the average life of the OEM battery is around 2 years. Now for Part 2. I installed a new battery (went with the Mega Crank as I have used those before). Charged it with the Battery Tender and then started it right up. All was well. Went for a ride of about 150 miles on Wednesday and everything was fine. Decided to take the wife for a breakfast ride this morning and off we went. Got about 2 miles and the Check Engine light came on as well as the battery idiot light. Checked the volt meter and sure enough it was showing only 12 volts so no charging taking place. Turned around and went home. Any ideas? Looks like I have to trailer it to the dealer which is 50 miles away as I'm not sure it would make it there on battery alone. Thanks again.

[rhino 2]

First, thanks to all of you and your inputs to my previous post (which somehow turned into a discussion on oil sampling). Looks like the average life of the OEM battery is around 2 years. Now for Part 2. I installed a new battery (went with the Mega Crank as I have used those before). Charged it with the Battery Tender and then started it right up. All was well. Went for a ride of about 150 miles on Wednesday and everything was fine. Decided to take the wife for a breakfast ride this morning and off we went. Got about 2 miles and the Check Engine light came on as well as the battery idiot light. Checked the volt meter and sure enough it was showing only 12 volts so no charging taking place. Turned around and went home. Any ideas? Looks like I have to trailer it to the dealer which is 50 miles away as I'm not sure it would make it there on battery alone. Thanks again.

I know this sounds obvious, But first check the battery terminals...

[Jack Klarich]

Have a look here, Like Bob said check your connections first

It could be that simple or a bad regulator, HD has had a lot of bad ones

Step by Step Instructions for Testing Your Harley’s Charging System

1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

• AC Output Check:
  

1. Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
   
2. Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
   
3. Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
   
4. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
   
5. Generic Specs:
   

• 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  
• 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  
• 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  

• Stator Resistance Check:
  

1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
   
2. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
   
3. Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
   
4. Generic Specs:
   

• 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
  
• 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
  
• 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
  

• Stator IB test or Ground Check:
  

1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
   
2. Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
   
3. There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
   
4. If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
   

5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

• Identifying Wires:
  

1. Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
   
2. AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
   
3. Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
   

• Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
  

• Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
  

1. Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
   
2. Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
   
3. Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
   
4. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
   
5. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
   
6. The reading should be Infinite.
   
7. With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
   
8. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
   
9. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
   
10. The reading should be Infinite.
    
11. Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
    

Positive Lead	Negative Lead	Reading
AC output 1	Battery charge lead	Voltage
AC output 2	Battery Charge Lead	Voltage
Battery charge lead	AC output 1	∞
Battery charge lead	AC output 2	∞
Ground	AC output 1	Voltage
Ground	AC output 2	Voltage
AC output 1	Ground	∞
AC output 2	Ground

[MDO]

If you have a digital volt meter & know how to use it properly, follow Jacks directions.

To get a sense of the procedure, watch this Harley techs video:

[FuzzyWuzHe]

I like that guy ... entertaining and informative.

[MDO]

I like that guy ... entertaining and informative.

Fuzzy, I do too & he's taught me a lot about Harleys. His name is John Maxwell & he has a YouTube channel. You should check it out when you have time.

The guys at Fix My Hog are very knowledgeable to, but a lot dryer.

[Jack Klarich]

Fuzzy, I do too & he's taught me a lot about Harleys. His name is John Maxwell & he has a YouTube channel. You should check it out when you have time.

The guys at Fix My Hog are very knowledgeable to, but a lot dryer.

Michael, check this guy out also

https://www.lawabidingbiker.com/

[MDO]

Michael, check this guy out also

https://www.lawabidingbiker.com/

I watch him too Jack, but his constant asking for donations gets old.

He's a heck of a rider. Most those motorcycle cops are pretty good.

[Bikerbozo]

Yo don’t say how many miles on it. I used to fry my stator every 25,000 miles. Loose terminal has gotten me also. Some signs of a bad stator (aside from all the good tests listed in previous posts), smelling burnt plastic or having done major miles the day before.

[Jack Klarich]

Yo don’t say how many miles on it. I used to fry my stator every 25,000 miles. Loose terminal has gotten me also. Some signs of a bad stator (aside from all the good tests listed in previous posts), smelling burnt plastic or having done major miles the day before.

Great call, each time you change your primary fluid give it the smell test

[MDO]

Great call, each time you change your primary fluid give it the smell test

I've been putting it on my salad Jack, but I like your idea better.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Okay, so at the risk of showing my age and that I'm a luddite, how do i find this guys U-Tube channel thingie?

Maybe a link? A Map? Even verbal directions might help.

[MDF48]

Fuzzy, try this link.



The link in "'s below so you can go straight to it from your computer using copy and paste is "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVweFccKjaA " Doing it that way takes you straight to the full YouTube page where you can subscribe and look at there playlist etc. Just remove the "'s.

BTW, you can also right click in the actual youtube video on the screen and choose copy video url, then paste it in a new browser window.

[MDO]

Okay, so at the risk of showing my age and that I'm a luddite, how do i find this guys U-Tube channel thingie?

Maybe a link? A Map? Even verbal directions might help.

When you go YouTube, just type John Maxwell Harley Davidson in the search bar. While a video is playing you can hit the subscribe button, then you will get notifications when he posts new videos.

[TG Bob]

OK, I checked the stator. Resistance checks are good and no shorting of the stator to ground. However, the AC output was only 6 volts. Reving the engine got it up to 10 volts so it looks like the stator is weak. Now I'm trying to decide to change it myself or bite the bullet and take it to the dealer. I'm sure they will do their own tests but at least I have an idea of what the bad news will be. By the way, the trike has 22,000 miles on it. Thanks for all your help.

[Gorilla]

OK, I checked the stator. Resistance checks are good and no shorting of the stator to ground. However, the AC output was only 6 volts. Reving the engine got it up to 10 volts so it looks like the stator is weak. Now I'm trying to decide to change it myself or bite the bullet and take it to the dealer. I'm sure they will do their own tests but at least I have an idea of what the bad news will be. By the way, the trike has 22,000 miles on it. Thanks for all your help.

It's not a tough job if you have the correct tools. The locking bar for the chain and large socket for the nut on the shaft.

[Texan]

......Charged it with the Battery Tender .....

Sorry but have to jump in here on this. Battery Tenders are NOT intended to charge a battery. They are engineered and designed to maintain a battery NOT charge it. With a new batter or a run down battery you need to bring it up to full charge with a good ole battery charger, then maintain it with your Battery Tender as the name signifies

My $$.02

8~\o

[TG Bob]

Actually, I use the term battery tender generically. I actually have a battery charger/maintainer which will charge up the battery and then switch over to maintenance. What's nice is it will give you an idea of how much your battery has discharged while your bike is parked without a maintenance charger on it based on how long it takes to switch over from charging to maintenance. Typically if I let the trike sit for a week and then put the charger on, it will charge for about 5 minutes and then switch over to maintenance so that tells me there was very little discharge during that week. When I got the new battery and put the charger/maintainer on, it charged for about 30 minutes and then switched over which told me the new battery definitely needed charging before being put into service. On first start up after charging, the starter really spun the engine over much faster than with the OEM battery. Now, to get the charging problem fixed. I do not have a locking bar. I can order everything I need but I want to get the trike back on the road now so I guess I pay the piper.